Proteus

Okay guys...so hopefully we'll have a strong showing at the birds. It's good to know that others will be there. That way we can share setups with each other. Let's put the Pro4 in the show!

tcdrvr

I was the only person at the birds with a Pro 4 and I wound up breaking the rear camber link mount after rebuilding the diff. The worst part is the parts were only available in Japan. Up until that point the car handled good, considering the toe blocks were not available. Fair warning to other Pro 4 drivers, Superior doesn't stock many parts for the car. TQ doesn't stock any parts at all and RPM is out of business so get what you need prior to coming to the race. If you can't find a part just ask I might have spares.

pucho

I have a few of the esentials, so between me and shane we are bound to have the part you may need.

hapiya

Can anyone pls tell what the part number is the new v1.1 bevel gears??

need to get some spares ...


thanx alot fellas ...

tcdrvr

I thought the part number was the same, didn't they just put the new parts in the bag?

Proteus

Thanks for the warning. I've got a bunch of rear hubs and R4/R6 castor blocks.....lol!!! So if anybody has a bunch of the L4/L6 blocks let me know.

Guo Chean

iTrader: (4)

the part number is 73501 you cann get in towerhobbies.

Ooj

Has anyone used the square titanium axles and dogbones. They seem like an expensive option so I would like to know what the weight savings are as well as durability compared to HPI parts.

Also what is the advantage of the derlin diff outdrives to the normal carbon plastic ones?

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

When I went to the Delrin diff halves I noticed the diff action was much much smoother than with the kit plastic outdrives. I haven't changed to TI axles or dogbones, but I did put MIP shiney CVDs up front and they're more durable at extreme angles than the aluminum stock ones. But if you put a stopper on the steering hub a lot of the bending problems will be eliminated anyways.

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

Hi Gary,

I have not found the MIP Shiny bones to be a big advantage over the stock units. In fact the Shiny bones both failed rather quickly. They developed bends on the shoulder of the step nearest the diff end of the bone. That of course was with using 7T motors on a high bite inddor track.

I would like to find some steel bones for the car. If you happen to come to anything that might work let me know.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Isn't the Shiny MIP bones made of Steel?
that's what I've always been told that the Shiny ones are steel...

MDawson

iTrader: (27)

The Shiny units are steel but the shoulder on that bone is the weak spot for the PRO4s suspension geometry. The Shiny I used was originally designed for the Tc3.

Perhaps a dog bone designed without that shoulder step would make the unit more durable.

I would guess that the application might be fine for stock or 19T setup but for mod, it just does not hold up.

pucho

Mark:

Have you tryed putting a 1mm washer glued to the steering block to limit the trable. It is sayed to help with the bending problem. In Japan there are some hardened steel units available but it uses the "yokomo" style bones. See the attached image and you see what I mean.

adamkerrnz

hi guys, i am going to be aquiring a pro 4 very soon and i was wandering what the weakest parts on the car are and what spares i should buy to keep in the box. some people have told me this is a weak car. im getting it anyway but do you guys agree with this?

Erlend

My Pro4 is rock solid, every problem with the car are easily solveable. Just shim the diffs correctly and you're ready to go.
Just in case, bring som CVD bones, bevelgears and steering blocks with you. I tend to compare my Pro4 to some Corally Asassins on my track, and that car is supposed to be unbreakable.