azenis

I did have some 30mm rims on the car with shocks in the middle position, but htey were those orange rimmed ones (GQ brand?) and i think they had a different offset to them.

What is the best way to cut a 30mm tyre to 28mm or 26mm??

I think i might stick with my cs22s, a lot less hassle than these foams!!

VenomWorldOrder

erik and the HPI usa gang, listen up.

HOW ABOUT DOING US ALL AROUND THE WORLD WHO DON'T SPEAK JAPANESE A FAVOUR.....

why don't you get those awesome HPI japan r and d, and HPI cafe sections in the japan site translated! i know we can use babelfish, but it translates it directly and sounds funny, sometimes even imposible to understand

ie: i translated something the other day with babelfish........

it translated it and went on about talking about mountains and the power of godzilla as it shines over hiroshima ....ok maybe not but it's like that sometimes.

tones

iTrader: (55)

my car had alot of tweak also, no matter how it was put together.

i noticed the top deck 'rocked' ALOT on the bulkhead/inner camber link braces, so i filed those down and did the 'top deck mod'.

this fixed some of the problem but the car still had a massive tweak.

i later noticed putting the top deck on and only partially putting the screws in that it had a slight 'wiggle' (meaning it was free on the screws) untill i put a screw in either of the steering post holes, then all of a sudden it was totally bound up.

so i opened out both holes carefully as needed (also using o-ring under counter sunk washers for these 2 screws).

now the car is 'right' and feels so much better out on the track.

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

It's not just you. My car, my sons and one other guy at our track always have to set the tweak with the right front and left rear shock. Not sure why Just the way the weight is distriuted or the car geometry? I use to worry about, but as long as set the tweak you'll never feel it on the track.

I've been running 10 turn mods and carpet and have yet to tweak a dogbone. Running stock outdrives and bones.

For the car squaring up you mean loose off power? Carpet or asphalt? If carpet, check out my setup posted a couple weeks ago. Every change on that setup was to gain more off power traction. Change the shock mounts to 1 on the tower and 2 on the a-arm with 5 wt. heavier springs.

take care
john

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

Yes. I've slid into boards while parallel to the board, and after the heat I did notice that my front bone was a little wobbly.

This has been a problem I've had with every touring car I own. My tc3 did it....so did my x-ray....and my yokomos...and my xxx-s...now this one. I've never bent a rear one, just the front ones. It's got to have something to do with the jamming force applied while the front wheels are turned to the left or right.

I don't think it's a problem specifically with the Pro 4 bones, at least based on my experiences.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

I think Square makes some Ti CVDs for the Pro4...I have been thinking about getting a set...The MIP CVDs that come with the kit seem to bend more easily then other cars I have owned. Might just be bad luck!

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Tones-

I read you post...but I am not sure I am completely clear on what you did to fix the issue...could you please explain it in alitte more detail.

Thanks,
Art

robk

iTrader: (22)

"What is the best way to cut a 30mm tyre to 28mm or 26mm??"

You need to put the tire on a truer. I have seen some guys use an Xacto to cut the tire, just holding it as the tire rotates. What might be a bit easier would be to use a fine tooth hacksaw blade, (like 32 teeth per inch). All you really need to do is hold the tool on the tire as it rotates. And please , make sure it's rotating AWAY from you, and you have a backstop, especially if you go the Xacto route.

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Instead of continuing a nice flowing arch, it just straightens out exiting a turn. It's not loose, it's just scrubbing some exit speed because of it.

Erik Shauver

JohnB: That’s why the holes are there So long as you get the car to work through experimentation, I always think it is a valid setup. I view the chassis as a tool with several settings… there is no one right setting, especially since everyone uses it differently. So long as you get the car to do what you need it to, do it. And from a suspension standpoint, both the spring and the angle affected the car… with data loggers we could tell exactly

RC Driver Gary: The weight balance issue is part of having everything as close as possible to the center of the car. A bit of balance is sacrificed for reduced rotating weight along the roll axis (connect the dots on the roll centers). The preload collars will NEVER be equal all the way around! To get a balanced car, throw the car up on some Hudy balancing posts (the chassis already has 2 small 2mm holes for this) and start adding weight to the right and right front (in front of the servo and next to the electronics). This will get your car close. With my electronics, I usually have to add 30~35g of weight to the right side. Then set approx. ride height. If you’re using corner scale, make changes in equal amounts in opposite directions on the front or rear collars to bring everything close to equal corner weights without drastically affecting ride height. Note, there will always be a slight rear weight bias, unless you aggressively rake the chassis (but not to worry as the steering geometry is super aggressive). You should notice that the collars are very sensitive (1/8th turn will do once you get close). After all this, recheck ride height and you will be good to go. I can usually use full brakes with a one-way if it has been corner weighted. Pheww.. as for the dogbones, the steering can sometimes travel past the limit of the CVD bones, causing damage. We are looking at a mold change on that to limit the steering travel very slight to keep it in range. For now, you can CA a .5~1.0mm spacer onto the steering block to limit the travel… this should greatly help protect the front CVD bones (check photos of Hara's car for details). If you wan to use the outside holes, most wheels will clear if you use the longer wheelbase setting, which will also give a bit more steering since more of the weight is up front relative to the wheel. Hope all this helps!

TRESFR: Was that only where the track was going from banking to flat? Other than that, your car looked pretty good. The only thing left, would be to go up in spring rate to control the chassis roll more.

VenomWorldOrder: We’ll see, but you too must learn the art of direct translation Japanese English!! Just remember, the field-player is Mr. Hara!! Most of the really weird stuff from Babel is the last names translated. So a driver named Smith would be come the “metal forming player.”

-E

RCGaryK

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Erik. This was really frustrating yesterday. I even had my Orion LCS transponder on top of the servo, and the right front was still 2-3oz light.

Jeff Werner

iTrader: (30)

Erik- A couple racers at my local track have had some issues with the shock caps. The look like they are not threaded far enough and do not seal well. On my set I got two that worked fine but my other two allow the shockbody to turn while I try and adjust ride height.

Love the car. Just wanted to know if there was a fix or????

Jeff

pucho

To solve my front CVD problems I sourced a set of Shint Bones for the TC3 and I have not problems now.

Erik Shauver

artwork: See the picture. I believe this is what they are referring to. WE have some team drivers do this, but we aren't sure that it is THE thing to do, but seems to help. Open up the holes with a cone dremel bit and replace the flathead screws with button heads. Some eve go as far as to replace the upper steering post screws with an O-Ring-Washer-Screw setup to give the deck some "float." I don't use this however.

Jeff Werner: The shock caps are a batch issue. Give Customer Service a call on those.

RC Driver Gary: One more thing on the weight, the further out you can place it the better its balancing effect will be (this was why some other shaft car hang the transponder outside of the servo).

Erik Shauver

artwork: sorry, forgot the image....