azenis

Hi guys
Just rebuilt my car and shocks, and got it finished last night and put it down to adjust ride height.
Motor and battery pack in the car, I got the front shocks ok but to get it so the front tyres lift off the ground at the same time, i have to have a LOT more preload on the back left shock. If they are close to the same amount of preload, the front right wheel lifts off the table a LOT earlier

The chassis is flat, droop, shock lenght etc are all ok. Is this because of the weight on the right side of the car is less than the left cos the batts are so much heavier? In this case, is it ok to have so much more preload on the back left spring? Or have I done something wrong?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

It changes the ackerman....I havent used this with rubber tires but with Foam tires I like the way it works. It also will alow you to go to full steering lock with out a 28mm rim hitting the shock. Its something to try out and see how you like it. But the mod is very easy to do.

rod_b

I run premounted TakeOff 27s and if it's too hot for them switch to Sorex 36R with either HPI red or green inserts. I don't know too many people who run the Take off 32s or the Sorex 32s. Most people go straight from TakeOff 27s to the Sorex 36s.

pucho

Pretty much pre-mounted CS-27’s work well in that situation. If it gets too hot try 32’s

Kevin:

Again thank for the info Ill have to give it a shot.

Skill

A solution for the steering knuckles....buy some alloy ones

DOMOisCOOL

azenis

can anyone help??

VenomWorldOrder

azenis. do the following;

-make sure your foams are the same size
-take top deck off, then tighten screws down again in X fashion
-if still not right take shocks of measure the length of the exposed shock shaft, they should be equal.

-still not correct? then with shocks of and swaybars off check droop again. noe place swaybar on and check droop. is the swaybar lifting a arm? if not place shocks on and check droop.

you might have alittle extra preload on one side but not heaps more.

azenis

Thanks VWO
My JET upper link mounts arrived today so I will be taking the top deck off again, so will check it all again. Got some setup wheels to

Also I got some of the conical washers and put countersunk screws in them on the steering posts instead of the normal ones. will probably do that other mod drilling the holes out too. I will let you know how i go cheers

azenis

Got it fixed now

Took shocks off and checked shaft length, all the same.

Adjusted the collars to the same length while i was at it.

Disconnected the sway bars.

Took off top deck and reattatched.

Same problem still there

Anyhow I loosened all the top deck screws, and then gave the chassis a little twist in the right direction, and tightned the ouside 4 screws and it was looking good so i tightned the rest and it is all good

Looks like the standard chassis is a LOT more prone to tweak than the BMI 3mm (I have Coxys old car)

Skill

Yea the 3mm top deck/chassis combo is a lot stiffer than the 2.5mm/2mm chassis/top deck. I haven't experienced any problems with tweak with the 3mm chassis yet.

steve252

hi

does anyone know where i can get square parts (mainly titanium input shafts) in the uk?

thanks
steven

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I highly recommend the 1 piece aluminum input shafts. the rear shaft combines the input and the spur gear mount into one solid piece.

best place to buy SQuare parts:

RcModel in HK.
Precision RC in HK
All Speed HObbies in US
RainBowTen in Japan.

big_G

Have you tried drilling out the 4 holes in the top deck as described a few pages back?

Aku-Man

I don't have any tweak problem yet after doing upper deck mod.