kn7671

iTrader: (16)

I'm liking my Rev.5L pretty good so far, and the other guys seem to as well. The chassis is slightly wider which makes it a little easier to fit all your stuff on, and having the SMC battery lock into the chassis is really nice. Some of us are playing with the roll center to find that magic setup, but no matter, Dumas still keeps kicking our butt, putting up to .6 seconds a lap on all of us with his Rev.5L, Tekin RS, and Tekin 13.5.

From our LHS and Race Club, we have about 7 people going to Vegas, with 5 of those 7 running a SpeedMerchant car. Personally, I will be running WGT 13.5T, 1/12th 13.5T, and 1/12th 17.5T. I believe Yang Lai (Theisgroup) will also be running the same 3x classes. I'm pretty sure Dumas is going as well to be running 1/12th Mod, 1/12th 13.5, and WGT 10.5T.

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

I'll be liking mine soon

And there's a very small chance I'll be at Vegas

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

Come to Vegas, Adam. It will be a blast (as usual).

Loving the Rev5Lipo..

Mike H, new rug is probably getting installed within the next week or so (RCE). Just thought I'd put the word out. We'll be feverishly working to break it in...

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

I went last year and it was awesome, but I'm still paying off that race lol

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

Rev5 Lipo Edition photos....thanks Bruce!


http://p1brand.blogspot.com/2009/06/...rev5-lipo.html

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

OK, I am in all the way. I have liked the look of the Speedmerchant cars, and once I saw the formula front end...
So, I have the 1/12th for indoor carpet 1s/13.5 in the fall (any tips for this would also be welcomed), but I just got a WGT to run on asphalt outside this summer. (actually, I have two now as I am getting my buddy that I raced with back then, out there with me, and we will be running the same, 1s lipo/13.5) Any help with starting point for set-up, or important things to not overlook, how to set-up the front end, springs, etc. of the SM rev5, or WGT would be appreciated.

I am returning to pan cars after a 25 or so year layoff. I picked up a TC a year or so ago and have been getting my driving back in shape, but still have a urge to run pan cars.

Thanks,
-Alex

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

Alex, the instruction manual has our base line set-up, so stick to that.. Unless there are any local hot shoes that have found something that really works for your track specifically.

When setting up the links in the front end, you want all four links to be adjusted in the same direction for lengthening/shortening the links. IIRC we are using tighten is adjusted toward the back...

For the side links, twisting the turnbuckles toward the middle of the car should tighten them. We have found it easier with all the cars at our local track set-up like this to make quick adjustments without having to figure out which direction the turnbuckles need to be turned...

I could write more, but that should get you started...

BTW, are you on carpet or asphalt?

JoelV

iTrader: (4)

At least you got it right in the manual Tim. Forward tightens. Hope your feeling better.

One problem I started noticing recently that 2 people have done with the front suspension is that when they rebuild the front end, they mistakenly put the front (caster) link on top of the rear (camber) link. So be careful when you go to rebuild the front end that it is built correctly.

timmay70

iTrader: (5)

That is why I write things down...

An easy way to remember the link order for the Formula front end, front link first...

A note about the side links, I have come across many cars where people have thread-locked the screws into the link balls. You shouldn't do this. If for whatever reason you have to remove the balls from the chassis (I like to polish mine with mother's once in a while), you will wind up needing pliers, and a new set of balls...

Especially when new, the chassis fibers need to compress. So, using your man-grip (or your man's grip), check the screws and really tighten them down when needed. It may take 2 or 3 times, but they will eventually not loosen up.

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

hey all, thanks for the tips.

Question about the side links, do they need adjusting often or for some other purpose? I thought once they were adjusted properly, no bind and squared-up that it would be rare to change them. Notice the other link cars don't have any adjustment on the links, just a elongated center ball adjustment, I assume to eliminate bind.

Any spring sizes for 1s lipo that seem to work would be appreciated for either WGT on pretty smooth asphalt, but somewhat slick or 1/12 on good grip carpet. Spec lilac tires on asphalt is where I will be running the WGT and mainly carpet for the 1/12th. Decided to go all 1s lipo, since that is what most around here are moving to.

Again, thanks all,
-Alex

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I don't adjust my side links unless I'm replacing the link connectors or chassis pieces.

we had two WGT cars out at Jackson RC running 1s/10.5t. we spent more time playing with traction compound outdoors than car setup. the base setup was
front: .020 or .022 springs; offset steering blocks; middle-middle in the FE; 5mm+ ride height to keep the chassis from touching; Jaco lilac

rear: .021 side springs; green tube lube; blue shock spring; 30wg in hotbodies shock; a fair amount of droop; 5mm+ ride height; Jaco lilac

Arn0

Hi Rev5 drivers,

I did a editable setup sheet in PDF format.

Also, here is a page with various setups.

Feel free to use and provide feedback for improvement.

Hope that can help!

J.Filipow

iTrader: (15)

Thanks Arn0! That's great.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

does anyone know where i can purchase a set of team tamale rev5 offset steering blocks? http://www.teamtamale.com/