Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#6271
RC TA05IFS F Parts - Hub Carrier 4 Degrees, Hard
Item #54031
Radio Control PartsTamiya Hop-Up Parts
Price: $7.50
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54031
#6272
hello guys,
My name is Ali and from Kuwait, i race 1/10 nitro touring and 1/8 buggy. my driving skills are not bad.
i was always facinated by the silence/speed of 1/10 electric cars. i would love to own one but unfortunatly we don't do any electric races in here.
i have no electric background what so ever, i used to own many Tamyia cars when i was a kid (old electronics, gold motor with the yellow manual SC :P ), after looking around, i came across the trf 416 and am lovin it. but the problems is that i dont know whats good for motor, esc, batteries, all the other things to get the car running. i know setting is not very similar to the nitro idea right? foam for asphalt, rubber for carpet???
any help is appreciated
cheers
Ali
My name is Ali and from Kuwait, i race 1/10 nitro touring and 1/8 buggy. my driving skills are not bad.
i was always facinated by the silence/speed of 1/10 electric cars. i would love to own one but unfortunatly we don't do any electric races in here.
i have no electric background what so ever, i used to own many Tamyia cars when i was a kid (old electronics, gold motor with the yellow manual SC :P ), after looking around, i came across the trf 416 and am lovin it. but the problems is that i dont know whats good for motor, esc, batteries, all the other things to get the car running. i know setting is not very similar to the nitro idea right? foam for asphalt, rubber for carpet???
any help is appreciated
cheers
Ali
Last edited by KWT-NITRO; 08-14-2009 at 04:10 PM.
#6273
416WE had 2x Cs, 1x XA and F. I would also get:
3x D (2 front, 1 rear)
1x X (rear)
1x E (rear)
This should give you all the suspension block tuning options you would ever need. Also get 1x 53932 suspension spacers in case you want to run anti dive in the front end.
#6274
hello guys,
My name is Ali and from Kuwait, i race 1/10 nitro touring and 1/8 buggy. my driving skills are not bad.
i was always facinated by the silence/speed of 1/10 electric cars. i would love to own one but unfortunatly we don't do any electric races in here.
i have no electric background what so ever, i used to own many Tamyia cars when i was a kid (old electronics, gold motor with the yellow manual SC :P ), after looking around, i came across the trf 416 and am lovin it. but the problems is that i dont know whats good for motor, esc, batteries, all the other things to get the car running. i know setting is not very similar to the nitro idea right? foam for asphalt, rubber for carpet???
any help is appreciated
cheers
Ali
My name is Ali and from Kuwait, i race 1/10 nitro touring and 1/8 buggy. my driving skills are not bad.
i was always facinated by the silence/speed of 1/10 electric cars. i would love to own one but unfortunatly we don't do any electric races in here.
i have no electric background what so ever, i used to own many Tamyia cars when i was a kid (old electronics, gold motor with the yellow manual SC :P ), after looking around, i came across the trf 416 and am lovin it. but the problems is that i dont know whats good for motor, esc, batteries, all the other things to get the car running. i know setting is not very similar to the nitro idea right? foam for asphalt, rubber for carpet???
any help is appreciated
cheers
Ali
Welcome to the thread. Yes the 416 is an awesome car. Looks great and performs very well on the track.
If you are experienced in nitro, you could probably go straight to modified motors. Get a brushless motor system (esc and motor) with a 4.5 or 4.0 motor. Systems from Venom, LRP or Novak would be good - all depends on budget and availability.
For batteries, go with Lithium Polymer (ie Lipo). Try and get something around 5000mah with 25C or higher. Also get a Lipo specific charger that can balance charge.
Tyres is usually rubber for asphalt and foam for carpet. For rubbers, Sorex tyres are generally the choice. You would need 36R, possibly 40R since it would get pretty hot over there!
If you go to http://www.thard.co.uk/index.php, you will find all the info you need. I would suggest going through the site and you will learn a lot about the car.
Enjoy!
Vinny
#6275
Tech Regular
For an explanation of the suspension blocks and a chart go to http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30.
416WE had 2x Cs, 1x XA and F. I would also get:
3x D (2 front, 1 rear)
1x X (rear)
1x E (rear)
This should give you all the suspension block tuning options you would ever need. Also get 1x 53932 suspension spacers in case you want to run anti dive in the front end.
416WE had 2x Cs, 1x XA and F. I would also get:
3x D (2 front, 1 rear)
1x X (rear)
1x E (rear)
This should give you all the suspension block tuning options you would ever need. Also get 1x 53932 suspension spacers in case you want to run anti dive in the front end.
#6276
Tech Adept
iTrader: (22)
I thought this is interesting. Not so new tech, but new for the 416
More info here http://www.horizonfuelcell.com/hobby_rc.htm
Anyone willing to try it this?
More info here http://www.horizonfuelcell.com/hobby_rc.htm
Anyone willing to try it this?
#6277
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I've been in contact with the guys about that... bizzarely my brother was sailing with one of the guys who works for Horizon, so passed teh contact on.
At the moment, the RC side is lower on the priority list for them, but seem to be genuinely interested in having a wokring system... it's deffiently quite cool
Ed
At the moment, the RC side is lower on the priority list for them, but seem to be genuinely interested in having a wokring system... it's deffiently quite cool
Ed
#6278
Hi Ali,
Welcome to the thread. Yes the 416 is an awesome car. Looks great and performs very well on the track.
If you are experienced in nitro, you could probably go straight to modified motors. Get a brushless motor system (esc and motor) with a 4.5 or 4.0 motor. Systems from Venom, LRP or Novak would be good - all depends on budget and availability.
For batteries, go with Lithium Polymer (ie Lipo). Try and get something around 5000mah with 25C or higher. Also get a Lipo specific charger that can balance charge.
Tyres is usually rubber for asphalt and foam for carpet. For rubbers, Sorex tyres are generally the choice. You would need 36R, possibly 40R since it would get pretty hot over there!
If you go to http://www.thard.co.uk/index.php, you will find all the info you need. I would suggest going through the site and you will learn a lot about the car.
Enjoy!
Vinny
Welcome to the thread. Yes the 416 is an awesome car. Looks great and performs very well on the track.
If you are experienced in nitro, you could probably go straight to modified motors. Get a brushless motor system (esc and motor) with a 4.5 or 4.0 motor. Systems from Venom, LRP or Novak would be good - all depends on budget and availability.
For batteries, go with Lithium Polymer (ie Lipo). Try and get something around 5000mah with 25C or higher. Also get a Lipo specific charger that can balance charge.
Tyres is usually rubber for asphalt and foam for carpet. For rubbers, Sorex tyres are generally the choice. You would need 36R, possibly 40R since it would get pretty hot over there!
If you go to http://www.thard.co.uk/index.php, you will find all the info you need. I would suggest going through the site and you will learn a lot about the car.
Enjoy!
Vinny
i dont want to run lipo battery, 5 cells for the 416 or 6 cells??
cheers
#6279
Ali, those Checkpoint motors are brushed motors? I would recommend against using them. There is lots of maintenance with brushed motors and not many people use them nowadays. Most people are now using brushless and they are basically zero maintenance. Even all the top drivers that use to run Checkpoint motors have been running brushless for the last year or so!
Same with batteries. Most people are moving towards Lipos for the same reason - low maintenance. 5 or 6 cell Nimh packs need to be discharged, then balanced discharged before you can charge again. Nimh cells also don't like to sit around after they are charged. Their performance can also deteriorate if you don't use them regularly.
Lipos are a lot less sensitive. You finish your run, let them cool down a bit then simply recharge. And you can also charge them the day before with no significant performance drop off.
Unless you are running to strict rules which do not allow brushless motors and Lipo batteries, I would definitely go down this path.
Same with batteries. Most people are moving towards Lipos for the same reason - low maintenance. 5 or 6 cell Nimh packs need to be discharged, then balanced discharged before you can charge again. Nimh cells also don't like to sit around after they are charged. Their performance can also deteriorate if you don't use them regularly.
Lipos are a lot less sensitive. You finish your run, let them cool down a bit then simply recharge. And you can also charge them the day before with no significant performance drop off.
Unless you are running to strict rules which do not allow brushless motors and Lipo batteries, I would definitely go down this path.
#6280
Tech Addict
Not touring cars, but current TC World Champion Marc Rheinhard just won the European 4WD offroad championship with the Tamiya 511.
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day6/
...
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/euros2009/day6/
...
#6281
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
Afternoon Gents,
I know a lot of people have been looking at the split blocks, and wondering what effect they'll have on the car... well, I ran a couple of back to backs today (going from split back to standard and back again).. and I'll happily report, there was naff all change... nitch, natch, nada!
If anything, that spooked me more than anything else!! Normally, what I would consider quite a big change, would expect something different with the performance of the car, be it good or bad... not noticing any change at all was, well, eriee
Had a pretty poor day today, mostly my own making... missed one round of qualy trying to source why the car was so snappy. And then a massive miscommunication about number of pro-stock finals led me and a mate to miss our first finals Oh well, live and learn...
Managed to learn a few things after racing too, making use of a nicely rubbered in track, biggest suprise was going to an F block on the rear both settled the car, and increased the high speed on-power steering
Cheers
Ed
I know a lot of people have been looking at the split blocks, and wondering what effect they'll have on the car... well, I ran a couple of back to backs today (going from split back to standard and back again).. and I'll happily report, there was naff all change... nitch, natch, nada!
If anything, that spooked me more than anything else!! Normally, what I would consider quite a big change, would expect something different with the performance of the car, be it good or bad... not noticing any change at all was, well, eriee
Had a pretty poor day today, mostly my own making... missed one round of qualy trying to source why the car was so snappy. And then a massive miscommunication about number of pro-stock finals led me and a mate to miss our first finals Oh well, live and learn...
Managed to learn a few things after racing too, making use of a nicely rubbered in track, biggest suprise was going to an F block on the rear both settled the car, and increased the high speed on-power steering
Cheers
Ed
#6282
Afternoon Gents,
I know a lot of people have been looking at the split blocks, and wondering what effect they'll have on the car... well, I ran a couple of back to backs today (going from split back to standard and back again).. and I'll happily report, there was naff all change... nitch, natch, nada!
If anything, that spooked me more than anything else!! Normally, what I would consider quite a big change, would expect something different with the performance of the car, be it good or bad... not noticing any change at all was, well, eriee
Had a pretty poor day today, mostly my own making... missed one round of qualy trying to source why the car was so snappy. And then a massive miscommunication about number of pro-stock finals led me and a mate to miss our first finals Oh well, live and learn...
Managed to learn a few things after racing too, making use of a nicely rubbered in track, biggest suprise was going to an F block on the rear both settled the car, and increased the high speed on-power steering
Cheers
Ed
I know a lot of people have been looking at the split blocks, and wondering what effect they'll have on the car... well, I ran a couple of back to backs today (going from split back to standard and back again).. and I'll happily report, there was naff all change... nitch, natch, nada!
If anything, that spooked me more than anything else!! Normally, what I would consider quite a big change, would expect something different with the performance of the car, be it good or bad... not noticing any change at all was, well, eriee
Had a pretty poor day today, mostly my own making... missed one round of qualy trying to source why the car was so snappy. And then a massive miscommunication about number of pro-stock finals led me and a mate to miss our first finals Oh well, live and learn...
Managed to learn a few things after racing too, making use of a nicely rubbered in track, biggest suprise was going to an F block on the rear both settled the car, and increased the high speed on-power steering
Cheers
Ed
I suggested the blocks would be nothing more than a convenience and not effect the chassis but I was told differently. Thx4 the info.
#6283
Tech Addict
...
#6284
Tech Regular
I would like to know what the F block do also like what toe in or does it make the rear wider.
#6285
The F block is a touch wider and I for one am using the 1X split block in front of the back and the 1F in the rear for a total of 3 degrees of toe in and no shim behind the rim. 188mm wide according to the HUDY gauge.