Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
#5491
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
I really hope somebody does, Its a real shame because I think die hard tamiya fans like myself would still pay a premium for a TRF car locally ( and that the parts were readily available - but id guess id be dreaming!). Its a shame to see that we get every model of the TT-01 here but never an "R" version or a TRF model here in Australia. I understand that the entry level kits are prodominant sellers but when left with the choice of a TT-01 or a base model TA05 over a full racing spec chassis from another manufacturer on the shelf of your LHS, I think an oppportunity is lost. Not to carry on about something i cant change and is not relevant to most people in this thread, but i believe in this product and wish it got supported by the distributers down here.
Steve
Steve
#5492
As with standard hardware , the underside of the head of the fastener is not perpendicular to the shaft and if you use said screws your diff will have high spots in it. The Screw shown... (I WANT ONE)lol is very correct for the application and will yield a better feeling diff. If you guys are breaking them I highly recommend checking out Try Hard's "uber-diff" set-up. the tension on the hardware is less and the diff action is incredibly smooth. Its a gotta have for the serious racer. At least take the drive rings out and sand them flat with 600 or 800 grit wet dry sand paper. WAY BETTER! And you all wont need to tighten that diff so much.
#5493
While I agree not all common hardware is perfect, I can tell you out of 50 screws you can buy with the money you pay for one "Tamiya" screw you can easily pick a bunch to outlast the car.
I don't have a 416 to have any problems, and am not sure what the "uberdiff" is, but I have my own way to set up my diffs and I don't have any problems with them. But I can understand why some of the guys at the track have broken screws. I am not sure how much it is a function of being overtightened or just fatigue, but I have never broken a "standard" screw. And by the way, I have a car that has aluminium screws through the diffs and has never broken one (true, they are M2.5 and that's a big difference). My guess is that in mod class there is a lot of strain on their diffs and something has to give.
I just tried to help you. If you still think you can't do without "tamiya" screws then go ahead and buy as many as you can. Mine are not for sale though.
Here's one last hint for you. Hpi has a diff service kit that contains the same screw as the tamiya one. Actually when Tamiya put those screws out and the plastic nut instead of the captive nylocs I thought straight away they were copying HPI (the HPI item fits the RS4 series of cars). Not sure what it cost, or how much easier is to get in the US, but at least you have one more alternative.
Good luck.
I don't have a 416 to have any problems, and am not sure what the "uberdiff" is, but I have my own way to set up my diffs and I don't have any problems with them. But I can understand why some of the guys at the track have broken screws. I am not sure how much it is a function of being overtightened or just fatigue, but I have never broken a "standard" screw. And by the way, I have a car that has aluminium screws through the diffs and has never broken one (true, they are M2.5 and that's a big difference). My guess is that in mod class there is a lot of strain on their diffs and something has to give.
I just tried to help you. If you still think you can't do without "tamiya" screws then go ahead and buy as many as you can. Mine are not for sale though.
Here's one last hint for you. Hpi has a diff service kit that contains the same screw as the tamiya one. Actually when Tamiya put those screws out and the plastic nut instead of the captive nylocs I thought straight away they were copying HPI (the HPI item fits the RS4 series of cars). Not sure what it cost, or how much easier is to get in the US, but at least you have one more alternative.
Good luck.
#5494
not sure what the "uberdiff" is, but I have my own way to set up my diffs or ...
Ask Ed "TryHard" for a link.... You will be amazed! Trust me.
Ask Ed "TryHard" for a link.... You will be amazed! Trust me.
#5495
#5496
God forbid anyone try to give a hand here....
I've been racing for about 30 years now and never stop learning things.
Heres an idea, don't try it.... don't learn something new...
And yes I have tried using a regular screw. For $4 I will but the right one for my diff and I will be happy with it's performance. Rest assured I had no idea a ball differential could be so smooth and free with out slipping and not have said screw so tight. \
Darwin was right!
I've been racing for about 30 years now and never stop learning things.
Heres an idea, don't try it.... don't learn something new...
And yes I have tried using a regular screw. For $4 I will but the right one for my diff and I will be happy with it's performance. Rest assured I had no idea a ball differential could be so smooth and free with out slipping and not have said screw so tight. \
Darwin was right!
#5499
http://www.shopatron.com/index/137.0...2133.22134.0.0
if its the same bumper as the Evo V then the T2 bumper will fit. Or you can make your own from the blank.
if its the same bumper as the Evo V then the T2 bumper will fit. Or you can make your own from the blank.
#5501
Geez, yal can kiss the fattest past of my...
OMG ! The dog farted and it went right down my throat.
OMG ! The dog farted and it went right down my throat.
#5502
#5504