4LikesTamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X
05-03-2008, 03:13 AM
#2056
What is wrong with my setting?
Can someone please point out which of my setting is wrong? I ran my 416 at my local track today and it keeps oversteering and is not very stable in the straight.
I run as follows:
4.0 brushless with 6 cells
Toe - 1 deg toe out front, 2 deg toe in rear
Camber - 2 deg front, 2.5 deg rear
Suspension - Blue spring front, 60 deg oil, red spring rear, 40 deg oil
Shock position - front #1, rear #5 (counting from the bottom)
Height - front 4mm, rear 4.5mm
The track is tarmac with good traction, but I keep oversteering at corners, and the car feels not stable on the straight. What am I doing wrong?
Help...
I run as follows:
4.0 brushless with 6 cells
Toe - 1 deg toe out front, 2 deg toe in rear
Camber - 2 deg front, 2.5 deg rear
Suspension - Blue spring front, 60 deg oil, red spring rear, 40 deg oil
Shock position - front #1, rear #5 (counting from the bottom)
Height - front 4mm, rear 4.5mm
The track is tarmac with good traction, but I keep oversteering at corners, and the car feels not stable on the straight. What am I doing wrong?
Help...
05-03-2008, 03:15 AM
#2057
This is the track that I run
05-03-2008, 06:26 AM
#2058
very nice track
i want a 416 :-(
i want a 416 :-(
05-03-2008, 06:28 AM
#2059
Tech Regular
Pull a setup from Tryhard's site .. 4mm sounds very low to me ??? sounds like you are bottoming the car
05-03-2008, 06:41 AM
#2060
have you guys changed the lower shock pivot balls over to allen heads? I was thinking of running a long grub screw in and putting the socket style balls that nitro tourers run to reduce wear on the arms
oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?
53334, they are part of the V plastic set
oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?
53334, they are part of the V plastic set
05-03-2008, 08:25 AM
#2061
What is the advantage to switching to the Short LWT Arms?
05-03-2008, 09:42 AM
#2064
05-03-2008, 10:00 AM
#2065
Try using 3 degree toe in in rear 2 degree is not enough and hardly ever used with that much motor
05-03-2008, 12:15 PM
#2066
Tech Apprentice
bboy, make your life more simple and just try one of the setups posted on tryhards site. You will only have to make minor adjustments to suit your track or driving style.
jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
05-03-2008, 01:44 PM
#2067
have you guys changed the lower shock pivot balls over to allen heads? I was thinking of running a long grub screw in and putting the socket style balls that nitro tourers run to reduce wear on the arms
oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?
53334, they are part of the V plastic set
oh speaking of arms, which way around do you run the short rear arms - with the wider set of holes to the back and narrower to the front or the other way around?
53334, they are part of the V plastic set
5mm long ones are fine for this.As for the arms, depends on what setting you want. Hole 2 (which the one most tend to run in), is the outer most hole on the inner set.
HiH
Ed
05-03-2008, 01:49 PM
#2069
bboy, make your life more simple and just try one of the setups posted on tryhards site. You will only have to make minor adjustments to suit your track or driving style.
jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
jontang001, its an adjustment not too many people play with. I have tried alot of different shock adjustments at many different tracks. The effect of rebound directly impacts the way the car handles bumps and negotiates quick switchbacks(aka shicanes). I have found the more rebound i use, makes the car more responsive/aggresive but can handle bumpy tracks much better, less rebound the opposite is true. The reason why rebound works best for bumps is rebound keeps the tire in contact with the track after you hit a bump, the longer you car stays in contact with the track the more stable it is. As for shicanes your car needs to change directions quickly, so with alot of rebound your car will be able to transfer the weight L/R quicker with assitance from the rebound. For me i almost always run full rebound just because i like a responsive car and if there is any inperfections in the track my car will keeps its composure. Hope this was not to confusing!
If you consider that the European TRF team have been running 2mm or so of rebound on carpet tracks with rubbers, they can afford to give up a lot of the bump stabillity (you would hope a carpet track doesn't have bumps 
), but use a little rebound to help with direction change. Outdoors I tend to find it's more about responsiveness, so then move to more rebound.
Cheers
Ed
05-03-2008, 10:16 PM
#2070
Tamiya have released a 2.5mm carpet chassis for the TRF416 here is a pic and checkout http://www.tamiya.com/japan/news/news0806/news1.htm for all the details and a direct route to the tamiya page.