JoeRocket

iTrader: (1)

Thanks

RCNitroDude999

iTrader: (26)

well guys i hate to say it, but im selling my G4. check it out in the forsale section, if i dont get any offers on it soon, I may part it out since there is so much stuff included, let me know if ya want anything.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=60303

Lycan

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone else had the opportunity to run a the K-Factory Ball Differential for the G4?

I installed on in my car the other day and I was quite disappointed. No matter what I tried I couldnt get the tension right. Even at the lightest setting the unit was way too tight. More diff action than my 30,000 weight front diff.
If I tried to loosen it off any further it caused the outdrives to slip on the bearing casings.

I did a little more research/playing and found the seals (K1453-2) around the diff gear are causing all the friction. Once I took then out the diff is as it should be, light action with no slip.

I was wondering if there is a way to run the diff with the seals but still keep the light diff action. With the seals in as it is, it feels like a gear diff with 40,000+ weight oil in it.

Cheers
Andrew

blue dragon

Yes, I ran mine last weekend for the first time. I thought the ball diff was set too tight from the factory (almost like a solid diff). I loosened it a bit, but it was too loose (as far as slippage). After my 3rd attempt I got it just right. It seems that the diff adjustment has a small sweet spot and it is very sensitive. For example a quarter turn in and it is too tight, a quarter turn out and it is too loose. I did not set it based on diff action, but rather on slippage. It ran fine, even though the diff action seems tight, way tighter than the stock gear diff.

RCNitroDude999

iTrader: (26)

hay g4 owners, i have these new in package parts for sale, pm if you want anything..and make an offer.

1-30mm push type clutch shoe
2-G4 2 speed 2nd spur gear 47T
2-G4 2 speed 1st spur gear 51T
1-4mm ball stud and shock ball cup (6)
1-G4 hard composite rear lower arm
1-G4 front upper arm
1-G4 front lower arm and up/down stop mount
1-G4 steering block (L & R)
1-G4 rear hub carrier (L & R)
Extra springs, shock parts, aluminum roll bar mounts.

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

OK, I'm confused. It is my understanding that Team Magic (or K-factory) has come out with a side pulley and brake pulley to allow us to have better ratios (both top and bottom end). I, like other here, run on a small track and need a high 1st gear ratio.

So how do these new S-class gear come into play? Is this just another option? Are the still .8 module gears? Can they be used in combination with the new brake and side pulleys for even better gear ratios? or what?

Also, why are they called s-class gears?

thanks to anyone who can answer these questions?

blue dragon

The s-class gears are smaller in diameter therefore they are incompatable with the current 2-speed housing. Therefore, a redesigned one is included in the s-class gear set. They are still 0.8 module gears. They also include a new 18T clutch gear and new 45T spur gear for a wider range of gear ratios.

18T/52T is 7.298
25T/45T is 4.547

If you look on the RD Logics site you will see the new brake and side pulleys. The combination of pulleys is too create overdrive in the front or rear.

my 2 cents

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

BD,

that clears up the s-class gears. Thanks.

but on the side and brake pulleys, they were designed to be used together so that you didn't have overdrive or underdrive. Changing just the side pulley would casue over/under drive conditions.

so, it looks like you could probably use them together to get even better ratios.

daniz24

When my friend install the 20T brake pulley, the belt becomes too tight.
Again I believe TM is not aware by this, aren't they?

rc_alan

daniz24... I'm using the 20t brake and side pulley with no problems what so ever... I'm using the low friction rear belt as well... Comparing it with my other G4 with the stock 19t, it's a tad bit tighter but that's it. I just loosen up my rear belt tensor and that's all I had to do... As for the S-Class gears... Be very... very careful with your gear mesh... Or you'll be losing gears left and right...

RC_Alan

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

rc_alan:

Are you using both the s-class gear and the new side/brake pulley together.

If so (And it sounds like you are looking for better top speed) do you happen to know the new ratios you can get out them?

rc_alan

You're right, I was using both the 45t 2nd gear and the 20t side and brake pulley... I strip the 45t gear during a race and couldn't finish... I had to fall back on the a 47t 2nd, so my top end as alittle down... Still waiting for the lhs to get the gears in... As far as the gear ratio??? No sure... but the car is like a rocket now... Both take off and top end!!!

RC_Alan

daniz24

Cool, i personally haven't tried to install them but I got complain from other G4 users. Have to check it by myself. What about the 18T gear? I believe the rear belt will be very very loose

blue dragon

I bet you will need the rear belt tensioner.

As for the s-class gear mesh - I did notice with the old "paper to set gear mesh" trick did not work as desired, it seems way too loose. I had to "eyeball" it. I ran it for one weekend with no problem.

Mr. Shims

Need Advice on how to keep the ball cup link between the servo and the steering rack from popping out, i tried the team magic ball cups but no success. should there be any better way to address this would be greatly appreciated. another thing im still undecided if i should just take away the servo saver since at high speed corners the play tends to take away most of the response from the steering.