jas1

you havn't said what diff oils you are running.
you shock oils also sound alittle on the low side, i usually run 55wt rear 60wt ft, if bumpy maybe go as low as 40wt.
i also hardly ever run any roll bars with rubber tyres.

Blakesrc

iTrader: (26)

Hey Guys,

I am considering getting into nitro sedan racing. There seems to be some awsome deals on g4's right now so i have been studying up on the car. Is there anything that is kind of a must have for the car that is not included with the kit? Also, it has been a long time since i have looked at nitro sedans, are they all meant for the same class now(same width etc?).

Thanks,

Blake

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Jas1: I am running 30,000wt in the front and 10,000wt in the rear.

BB

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

Daniz24: Will using the Kfactory frnt and rear shock towers make any difference on the position at all? Also, Jas1 suggested i disconnect the sway bars an see what difference that would make? It is alot easier fix, but it might be not be the answer...

What should i try first

BB

Raul Garcia

iTrader: (79)

BB,
the K fatcory towers are some of the most important improvement that you can add to your car. Yes, they do have alternate holes other than the stock towers. I also like the belts, and the light two speed housings, are pretty trick.

rc_alan

RCNUT... Is my steering block on the way??? I ran the G4 with the upgraded steering system over this past weekend... I don't really see any problems yet with the system expect that if anyone sets there EPA over 100%, they'll end up stripping the servo saver arm will quick... Everyone, check all settings on car and radio before running it... The feel of the new steering system is different then with the stock slider setup or any other steering system for that matter... Oh, I also made a few mods to the bulk head to get just alittle more steering out of it... Over all though from what I've seen from the new steering upgrade, it should last much longer and you should have more steering then stock... Just my .02 Still trying to get the car dialed in... I did a complete re-build of the car when I put the new steering system in... Let me know when you've shipped my upgraded steering blocks... Still waiting... Hope you had a great weekend and happy racing..

RC_Alan

jas1

i'm sure i read this some where about the new steering blocks, too get the same amount of steering out of the old blocks just drill another hole closer to the hub and cut the webbing away.
havn't had time to try it yet so dont quote me on it.

Bundy bear- i run 5000wt oil in the rear, and 100000wt in the ft but do go down too 50000 and 30000 for for twisty tracks.

when setting my car up i always start with no roll bars, but i wouldn't use them on a bumpy track

another thing we have been trying on the car is running 1 or 2 grade spring harder on the rear of the car to the front, with this setup if you struggle for rear end traction add another 1 degree of toe in to the back. should give you all the steering you need.

i also run 1 degree toe out on the front

rc_alan

jas1... I've already tried that trick with drilling another hole closers to the hub and cutting some of the webbing away... When doing that, the front end becomes more unstable and also while one wheel will gain more ackerman the other will loose ackerman in a turn... I was hoping that the new steering block would solve that problem. 1* toe out does help in most cases and while entering a turn the toe out is great the problem is with the exit... Toe out will cause your car to push exiting a turn... There's a fine line with setting up your car... One setting might work for car A or car B, but not for car C... I do have the side pulley conversion sitting in a box... I'll put that on to see if that will add some more steering and also to cut down on rear tire wear... jas1... Thanks for reply and if you happen to get the new steering system, let me know what you think about it... It's was a long time coming and big step in the right direction from TM...

RC_Alan

jas1

i do have the new steering setup, have just been fitting into the car tonight, all looks good so far,
i have a big national meeting a week on saturday/sunday, so i will be testing the steering on the saturday/practice day. i will post my findings then.
i'm one of the lucky few though, i never encountered any problems with the old steering, so i could go back to it if i dont like the new

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

I too have the new steering but haven't put it on yet.

I was also one of the few that had very little problems with the old system.

I don't want to switch for the sake of switching but if it gives me something that the old system can't, then it would be worth it. anyone been using it long enough to chime in?

I have put on the new clutch shoe, weights, etc. Haven't tried them yet. anyone tried them yet? I was/am problems with lost car acceleration(due to clutch slipping)

XTREMERCHOBBIES

iTrader: (2)

anybody ever tried the rear solid diff? whats it like on the track?

Mr. Shims

need advice on my g4 setup for (foam - one way)

track surface - smooth
size - tight
traction - low
temp - hot

thank you in advance for your help

rc_alan

rodneybarrett and Jas1, if you both haven't had any problems with the old steering system, then I wouldn't change to the new... The feel is different and will take some time to get use to... Does the new steering system work??? Yes!!! And from looking at it and driving it this past weekend, the system looks and feels more duriable then the old one... I was the first to say that the old system when working, felt great and was super smooth.. The problem was when the system would bind and lock up... This one is very much like the NTC3/OFNA CD3 system in feel... With the right servo and radio settings... All shoud be fine... I hope..

Mr. Shims... The stock setting should work fine... The only things I would change is your droop.. 5 in the rear and 1 in the front... 50wt shock oil because you want your car to be able to change directions quickly for a tight track... -3* rear chamber and 2* rear toe in... Front 0-1* toe out... Ride height - Rear 5 and front 4... You never said if the track is always cleaned and sprayed with VHT... Very important as the track conditions change so will your cars handling... As for foams... 37 rear and 40 front is always a safe starting point... Good luck and let me know if the settings tips help you out...

RC_Alan

Mr. Shims

thank you rc_alan

ill try it out and tell you immediately, thanks again! ill keep you posted on the results hoping to get into the A-mains soon.

the track tends to build up with dust from the neighboring construction site which adds stress on finding more traction

rc_alan

Mr. Shims... Set your car up using a setup statation to make sure all your setting's are correct. Remember droop is just as important as your rear camber and toe angels... Make sure your shocks are build correctly also... If you're going to use the stock shocks, I would not use the stock shock bladders... They're to small... You can get some Traxxas shock bladders for there N4TEC... Funny but true... for about $2.50 and they work great... Or your can use Mugen shocks, they work great as well... As far as rear diff oils... Try 10,000 and 30,000 and see which one feels better to you on the track and see how the car handles using both... Run the car when the track has high to almost high traction, that way, you'll know what the car is doing... When the track is dusty and the traction is low, you'll never know what's going on with the car... Except that you don't have any traction.. lol A little tire traction compond will help clean your tires up and help gain alittle traction if you need it. Always use a fresh set of tires when you're setting up your car too...

RC_Alan