9LikesTamiya F103 Forum
12-02-2001, 02:57 PM
#481
i am runnig the old front end (solid arm's and the kingpin moves up and down) as for the rear end, i think its the old style, i cant adjust tweak, which isnt a good thing.
i want to get the tweak adjustable rear end plate thingie, alum motor mount, medium front tires, new style front end, and also a body to replicate the fw23 (not all items for performance though)
also anyone know which wing and body set would be the best for this?
i want to get the tweak adjustable rear end plate thingie, alum motor mount, medium front tires, new style front end, and also a body to replicate the fw23 (not all items for performance though)
also anyone know which wing and body set would be the best for this?
12-02-2001, 09:32 PM
#482
stormperson
I find that it is really not necessary to adjust tweak on the F103. If you're running on asphalt, you might consider tightening down the two screws that make the pivot for the t-plate. Don't crank them down all the way, but enough to limit the t-plate's motion. I find that gives better rear traction in sweepers and it has the same effect as it you were to limit this motion with tweak screws on the pivot ball rearend.
As far as a wing set goes, I don't know of anyone that makes one in that color blue. The closest I've seen is the wing for a Kyosho Impress, but it's a lot lighter blue, the rear wing is the "cheater" wing, so you'll have to chop the top wing off to make it look right, and I have no idea where you'll even find a set. I think you'll have to take a wing set from something readily available and paint it. The current F-Type or M-Type wings should be pretty close in appearance.
I find that it is really not necessary to adjust tweak on the F103. If you're running on asphalt, you might consider tightening down the two screws that make the pivot for the t-plate. Don't crank them down all the way, but enough to limit the t-plate's motion. I find that gives better rear traction in sweepers and it has the same effect as it you were to limit this motion with tweak screws on the pivot ball rearend.
As far as a wing set goes, I don't know of anyone that makes one in that color blue. The closest I've seen is the wing for a Kyosho Impress, but it's a lot lighter blue, the rear wing is the "cheater" wing, so you'll have to chop the top wing off to make it look right, and I have no idea where you'll even find a set. I think you'll have to take a wing set from something readily available and paint it. The current F-Type or M-Type wings should be pretty close in appearance.
12-03-2001, 03:52 AM
#483
ya, i figure i will probably end up having to paint the wing.
since i am running on carpet though, how much should i tighten it down, and the car is very tweaked, everyone who drove it mentioned that.
since i am running on carpet though, how much should i tighten it down, and the car is very tweaked, everyone who drove it mentioned that.
12-03-2001, 06:52 AM
#484
Depends if it is lose than losen the back screw if it is tight do the opposite. the front screw I never change i have pretty tight but not fully locked down.
12-03-2001, 10:12 AM
#485
stormperson
What chassis configuration are you running? If you have the standard F103 FRP chassis plate, you should add the FRP, long, upper deck. It may be that the chassis is flexing and causing ill handling. If you have the stock chassis, the FRP upper deck (part# 53186) is a must have hop up. Also, check the the front kingpins are moving freely. It's possible that one or both is not and giving the appearance of tweak.
What chassis configuration are you running? If you have the standard F103 FRP chassis plate, you should add the FRP, long, upper deck. It may be that the chassis is flexing and causing ill handling. If you have the stock chassis, the FRP upper deck (part# 53186) is a must have hop up. Also, check the the front kingpins are moving freely. It's possible that one or both is not and giving the appearance of tweak.
12-03-2001, 12:33 PM
#486
i got it used, however it appears to have an upper deck and lower deck, and all of the flat plastic (t bar, top of the battery plate, and friction plate) made out of the frp stuff. i also just realized that i probably have a graphite axle seeing how its not metal, but dark grey.
12-03-2001, 06:11 PM
#487
Got a question for you all, if I want convert a F103LM TRF fit F1 body? Just a flat carbon chassis will do? or do i need to get different upper deck too???
12-03-2001, 08:12 PM
#488
From what i have seen, the people that use the Carbon chassis do not use the upper deck as the Carbon chassis is stiff enough!
12-04-2001, 10:00 AM
#489
If you run the Hard Carbon-Graphite chassis (part#53168) you do not need the FRP upper deck. It is plenty stiff without it. That's what I run on my TRF car. It's around $100, though 
If you can't find it, have Les order it for you. www.mdiracing.com Just send him an email.
If you can't find it, have Les order it for you. www.mdiracing.com Just send him an email.
12-04-2001, 10:49 AM
#490
What I mean by upper deck... is that thing over the battery holder. I thought F1 has different "upper deck of battery".
12-04-2001, 12:09 PM
#491
OK, I'm with you. There are two top plate configurations. The graphite top plate that comes with the TRF car doesn't need the aluminum bar for the shock to attach to, since it's built in. The FRP upper decks require this. I guess it's because they flex too much. When I converted my TRF car from the LM type chassis to the F type chassis, I only replaced the chassis. I did not change the upper deck. I converted it to the side antenna mount, but that is not a requirement.
This is what the TRF car comes with
This is what the top deck that the F103RS/RX come with looks like. This is actually the CF version of the stock upper deck.
The long FRP upper deck looks like this.
The blue part in this picture is what you need to mount the shock on the long and short FRP decks and the CF version of the short upper deck. Of course, the stock piece is silver.
I hope that clears it up. I'll take some pictures of my car when I get home so you can see how mine is set up.
This is what the TRF car comes with
This is what the top deck that the F103RS/RX come with looks like. This is actually the CF version of the stock upper deck.
The long FRP upper deck looks like this.
The blue part in this picture is what you need to mount the shock on the long and short FRP decks and the CF version of the short upper deck. Of course, the stock piece is silver.
I hope that clears it up. I'll take some pictures of my car when I get home so you can see how mine is set up.
12-04-2001, 01:04 PM
#493
ya, mine has that piece, and the long deck that goes to the front and mounts with the servo.
i cant seem to find the tweak adjusting rear pod, is there any way i can adjust tweak currently? also i have l30 oval car, that i never ran, can i steal that whole rear assembly?
i cant seem to find the tweak adjusting rear pod, is there any way i can adjust tweak currently? also i have l30 oval car, that i never ran, can i steal that whole rear assembly?
12-04-2001, 01:52 PM
#494
stormperson
That bottom picture is the pivot ball rear end set. The pivot assembly has the option to add tweak screws, but does not include them. In the TRF instruction, it tells you how to do it. I can probably scan it and post it so you can see how it works.
BTW, those pictures are on Tamiya's Dutch site. www.tamiya.nl
That bottom picture is the pivot ball rear end set. The pivot assembly has the option to add tweak screws, but does not include them. In the TRF instruction, it tells you how to do it. I can probably scan it and post it so you can see how it works.
BTW, those pictures are on Tamiya's Dutch site. www.tamiya.nl
12-04-2001, 04:03 PM
#495
sorry, i didnt specify, i have that blue annodized shock mount. thus would that mean that i have the pivot rear end? thus allowing me to adjust tweak? how does it do it, i know my speedmerchant rev. 3 has screws, however how does one adjust it on the tamiya?