BadSign

iTrader: (15)

You should just put an ice cube on the motor and let it melt while your batteries are charging.

NiMo

Are the fan motors 5v or 7v ?
If 7v then you can wire direct to the battery leads, but .....
If 5v then this would burn out the motor (either soon or later).

Option for 5v:
Wire via a receiver channel.
Use a small LiFe pack for the fan.
Wire to the motor wires (this will have the fan speed change with the motor speed, more power more speed)

davidwp

7v, I'll hook it up to the battery leads.

Thanks,

Hpimichael

hey guys,

im bringing my F103LM back to life how ever after the added brushless motor system i have no grip, doing some research and found that the F104 tires fit in the rear and the front need new bearings. my question is for the bearings do i just get the f104 front end system or just the bearings.

i dont want to pay $30 per tire set, the f104 is half that so this is my reasoning., if i can find just the tires will they fit on the f103 rims??

prorace

You can put the F104 tires directly, just swapping front bearings, but the car will be 20 mm narrower at the rear. I tried this, and works well but looks weird.
to put a F104 front end, you will need also the servo support and kingpins.

BadSign

iTrader: (15)

If you have the old wheels and can get the foams off of them, you could try these

slowmotion36

iTrader: (2)

Would anyone be able to tell me what the best options are for titanium screw sets? I would prefer that they have hex heads on them.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

I got a set from TRG they are perfect but if you got a 15th Anniversary then you need some more for the Alloy parts

CondeAfonso

lol!! Mine doesn't stick to the ground not even with a Tamiya Sport Tuned (black can)!!

I took it out to the track today but this car is behaving... useless to say the best. It spins every 5 meters: on throttle, of throttle, half throttle.. it doesn't really matter, it only goes straight.. on straights!

I thought it was the diff at first, so i spent a full night on it. Sanded the plates, used the appropriate oil, took a look at the right position of the conic washers (common mistake from what I've heard) at in the end i got it perfect. It's so extremely smooth it feels better than a gear one. And still no grip..

I tried all the tires combination... still no grip.

I built it scratch from parts and i think i got all the right stuff:

• 3racing graphite gt chassis
• standart GT from suspension (The best. I had the 3racing adjustable, but those turnbuckle top arms don't like crashes)
• 3racing graphite long top deck
• 3racing graphite t-bar
• 3racing f103 shock
• stock front t-bar mount
• pillow ball rear t-bar mount

I think using the pillow ball on the rear mount helps a lot, it makes the side movement smoother and more spring like. It's only rear compression that seems a little too hard with the graphite t-bar. When on acceleration the car should squat a little and it really doesn't, witch might be a indication.. So, my thoughts now are:

• Softer tamiya t-bar (maybe will be softer on suspension compression?)
• Change the motor to silver can

Any opinions? The reason I'm totally lost here it's that my M-04 (also rear wheel drive) drives perfectly in the same track. I mean i could drive circles arround the f103 with it!!

howardcano

iTrader: (37)

The pillow ball rear T-bar mount adds considerably to the rear bump stiffness since the pivot is not on the neutral axis of the T-bar. (Most T-bar cars have the pivot ball located in the center of the T-bar's thickness, or Z dimension. On the F103 the pivot ball is above the T-bar. This also raises the roll center as compared to the stock T-bar mount, which reduces rear grip while cornering.) The combination of this and the graphite T-bar means you probably have a spring rate on bump that's way too big, which can make the rear end hop.

Try the fiberglass T-bar, preferably the thinnest (softest) you can find, and the lightest spring you can get for the shock (or no spring at all, if there is sufficient ride height).

I'll assume you are properly doping the rear tires, also.

CondeAfonso

Done. I just changed to the O-ring rear mount to se how it will handle. Will test it sunday monday

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

For me, it's about tires and weights. Assuming correct tires, time to add tons of weights until handling is ok. There was a time I added 300 grams to the rear pod just to prevent it from spinning out as track grip was non existent.

But nowadays, 70 grams and steel axle in rear pod works most of the time for me. Plus correct tires and traction compound.

CondeAfonso

Ready for Sunday practice. Taking all kinds of tires with me to see what works.

• back o-ring mount
• no spring on shock
• silver can motor

Lets hope i can drive it now

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Try this
Hard front springs, flex T-bar with normall batterymount at the front and ballsuspentionmount at the rear,steel axle, 300 oil in shock, red Tamiya spring, shorty lipo and if you are running on foam, 25 or 30 rear and 40 to 45 front.
For tire liquid try TC5 at the rear and warm the tires so it gets really in there.
Front start with just a thirth of tire liquid and work your way from there


regards Roy

CondeAfonso

Well actually it perfomed amazing! It had so much grip now that it understeered. I only managed to spin-it on braking and with lots of steering.

It was a fun morning finally