GM Brushless
#2716
Tech Apprentice
Hello,
The captors of my two gm pro motors (4.5 et 5.5) are not working any more (it is not a wire problem, it works with other motors).
Is it possible to change it ? What is the ref ?
Is it existing a special problem that broke the captors ?
Thanx !
The captors of my two gm pro motors (4.5 et 5.5) are not working any more (it is not a wire problem, it works with other motors).
Is it possible to change it ? What is the ref ?
Is it existing a special problem that broke the captors ?
Thanx !
#2718
After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
#2719
After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
What motor are you running?
When it's dead, do you have steering?
#2720
I'm running this setup:
http://www.gm-racing.de/rwdownload/i...?url=&dlid=145
As far as I remember, it has a switchpoint setup.
Only thing I changed is the telemetrie that has been put on.
I'm running a Fantom Ion2 10.5, geared at around 53mm.
I use a receiver pack, steering kept working, the car just doesnt move.
I had this problem before with an old Tekin R1, cause it lost lock on the rotor.
But this shouldnt be there when using sensors.
#2721
Tech Master
That was a setup Chris ran on 4 cell. Looking at my own lipo 12th settings, I used the voltage cutoff at 2.5V, so if you are running lipo i'd suggest changing to this.
#2722
But I didnt know this was a 4cell file, thx for the info.
On the other hand, power is incredible then, since I use the timing it was set: 12.
But does anyone know about the "sitting like a duck on the straight" part of my post?
I'll try some more on sunday
#2723
Tech Addict
After driving 2 years with a Tekin speedo in 1/12th, 1S, 10.5 Boosted I switched to a GM 75.
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Downloaded the Euro's 10.5 setting and all I can say is: "Wow" .
Reason why I wanted to dump the tekin is the lack of throttle response and the fact that I got a ton of power in the first 2 minutes, then it fades away to almost nothing.
The GM gives an enormous amount of torque which stays the complete 8 minutes! This translates in a very nice throttle feeling.
Outright top end speed isnt as high as the tekin was, but its close and faster out of the turns. Motortemps are a cool 55 degrees.
Only problem I have is, when the car gets flipped (occasionally off course ). It seems to be sitting dead for 2seconds or so (waiting to get sensor readings??). After that I can drive along. However, this is very annoying and stressfull when it happens on the straight..
Can anyone shed some light on this?
#2724
Tech Master
It's your call if you follow or not - but IMHO the reason it stops, is because the ESC has re-booted due to the voltage setting. It's something that i've seen a lot, it was much worse with the older ESC, but the newer one can suffer also. Hence if you lower it, it shouldn't re-boot.
#2725
Tech Addict
It's your call if you follow or not - but IMHO the reason it stops, is because the ESC has re-booted due to the voltage setting. It's something that i've seen a lot, it was much worse with the older ESC, but the newer one can suffer also. Hence if you lower it, it shouldn't re-boot.
#2726
If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
#2727
Tech Adept
Timing on the Gm 10.5
Trying hard to find out what is the timing advance on the 10.5 motor on the standard central setting and how much difference it makes when you advance it on the end bell.
Can anyone help?
Can anyone help?
#2728
If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
But I'm using a receiver pack and it still cuts out after a hit.
Maybe I'd better check my electrical connections...
#2729
Tech Master
Martin is correct - it isn't as simple as just making it as low as possible and living with it. You want to run it as high as you can get away with - so it could be that you're too low Chris. When we ran 4 cell, we found that my ESC was actually better on a different setting to CK's - no obvious reason. I only did 1 race last year, but i guessed at 2.5V and it ran faultlessly for 2 days.
#2730
Tech Addict
If it gets soft and then cuts out, the voltage setting is too high, if it just cuts out the voltage setting is too low! means: the processor needs a certain voltage to even work. Even the slightest drop below this voltage will cause a reboot. hence if you set the cut off voltage higher, the voltage doesn't dump below the reboot value
Martin is correct - it isn't as simple as just making it as low as possible and living with it. You want to run it as high as you can get away with - so it could be that you're too low Chris. When we ran 4 cell, we found that my ESC was actually better on a different setting to CK's - no obvious reason. I only did 1 race last year, but i guessed at 2.5V and it ran faultlessly for 2 days.