new3

hey you forgotthe front and rear bulk heads and the front ones are the one in the set up that are needed

Corse-R

Nope, for getting an 'X' from the original 4 you do not need the bulkheads, they come brand new on the conversion.

Erock

That's more of what I was thinking it was.

Here is a question for you Paul. Nobody I ask seems to know for sure:

If you go from the A ackerman block to the B, what does the do for you?

Pooh2

I'm not Paul or anybody like that. But I feel it gives more turn in. More steering when u enter a turn.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

When going to more ackerman B-D it will give more turn in because it scrubs the wheels more as you turn. Bascially slows the car down more. When the traction is high or the turns are really wide A seems to work good. If the turns are tight or less traction, towards D would be better in theory. I never tired B or C just A and D. If I had to pick one that I would use everywhere it would be A but that does not mean B-D wouldn't be better.

Paul

Erock

I have the X conversion on the car but havent gotten to run it yet. The problem I had with the R was understeer mid corner off-power, I was using the rear of the car to turn it. I hate having to do that. The car would not go around a 180 for nothing.

Corse-R

Ever supposed that from A to D gave you less steering... Gee!!! thanks that I Didn't changed it. Tried the X past Sunday and I was looking for a little less sensitive steering, had more than I wanted with the Central RC body.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

Try raising the top front arm 1mm. That usually smooths the car out and you can try 1 more 1mm shim for the bumpsteer(so you have 2mm).

Paul

fulcrum2

Hi there!


The new H0136-b rear upper arm comming with the X conversion, is this the same one that has been used on the original MRX-4 and has the part number H0136?

With the R came the adjustable length upper arm as a running change and was also called H0136 - Confusing

Anybody?

Thx

new3

go up one shore of tires all the way around it will settle the car down. out in l
LA i use 40 with the central body and 38 with the freezbee body

rankev11

iTrader: (3)

Does anybody know where I can get my hands on the conversion kit? I have called two of my normal hobby shops and they both said they sold out of them the first day it came in. And said Mugen was not making any more since they were coming out with the new car. So, am I s.o.l. or what??? Looks like the price of all the parts seperately is about $400 as I saw the kit for $179.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

The orginal 4 was part number HO136, the R is HO147 and I think the X is HO136-B. The X is the shortest, then 4 a little longer and R is the longest.

Paul

Joel J

iTrader: (23)

Beltran Hobbies have them in stock. Call them with this number (323) 589-5100.

rankev11

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Joel, just spoke to Jessie.

fulcrum2

@chicky03

Thanks for the info about the upper arms, much appreciated.

I did the x conversion last weekend and was asking myself from a technical point of view "Why are we doing this upgrade?"

- New Chassis only to introduce the new FRP battery holder. Is this creating more torsional rigidity? Btw new CRP optional battery holder is also available since some days

- New bulkheads only to allow high and low positions for the solid axle and front one way. What are the handling effects?

- Back to the old shock towers and short rear shock bodies Why? everybody claimed that the R was much better than the original MRX-4 with those parts

- Shorter rear upper arms. Why? Longer upper arms improved the R versus the original 4

- New rear uprights with adj. offset. Whats the benefit?

-A lot of unnecessary plastic parts come with the x conversion. Shock parts are not needed despite the rear lower collars. Rear brake bracket is not needed (only the short lever), rear body mount is not needed (only the longer arms)

Just some observations and thoughts...