Decal paper
08-23-2001, 03:13 PM
#1
Decal paper
Where can I find clear decal paper for my printer, I have some stuff almost right, but it has not sticky backing.
08-23-2001, 05:02 PM
#2
They used to advertise it in RCCA on one of the big ad's I think it's yellow. Hope this help's a little.
Last edited by fatdoggy; 09-05-2001 at 08:55 PM.
08-23-2001, 05:24 PM
#3
Re: Decal paper
Originally posted by Speedo
Where can I find clear decal paper for my printer, I have some stuff almost right, but it has not sticky backing.
Where can I find clear decal paper for my printer, I have some stuff almost right, but it has not sticky backing.
It says on the package it's guaranteed to work in ink jet printers.
Trips
08-23-2001, 05:49 PM
#4
Thanks
Thanks trips, I'll see if I ca find some!
08-23-2001, 10:45 PM
#6
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Only problem with the ink jet, don't get the decal wet or it will smear. Spray it with some clear or hair spray to lock the color in
08-24-2001, 05:13 AM
#7
When using clear sticky decal sheets on inkjets I always stick the decal on the inside of the shell. This works great. Make sure you buy the clear plastic sheets which are flexible so that you can stretch over the shell.
One thing to note when using the clear stuff is that "white" is clear so you either have to spray a thin film of white paint on the decal before using (cut the decal out first, otherwise it gets really difficult to see the outline!
Also remember to reverse all lettering!
Alternatively just use the decal on white areas of the shell.
I have had excellent results by scanning the front headlights and grill details from the original decal sheet. Reprinting it on clear decal sheets and then sticking on the inside of the shell....... no more scrapped headlight decals and the shell looks GOOD forever!
One thing to note when using the clear stuff is that "white" is clear so you either have to spray a thin film of white paint on the decal before using (cut the decal out first, otherwise it gets really difficult to see the outline!
Also remember to reverse all lettering!
Alternatively just use the decal on white areas of the shell.
I have had excellent results by scanning the front headlights and grill details from the original decal sheet. Reprinting it on clear decal sheets and then sticking on the inside of the shell....... no more scrapped headlight decals and the shell looks GOOD forever!
08-24-2001, 06:58 AM
#8
Regional Moderator
dtm, you mean to say we can paint over this clear decal sheet from Avery? If we stick it inside the shell then it would be much like the paint masks from Team Orion? That would be great.
08-24-2001, 07:26 AM
#9
Dude I gotta get my some of that stuff. Also is it an actual decial or one of the sticker type decails?
08-24-2001, 07:56 AM
#10
Originally posted by fatdoggy
They used to advertise it in RCCA on one of the big ad's I think it's yellow. Hope this help's a little.
They used to advertise it in RCCA on one of the big ad's I think it's yellow. Hope this help's a little.
08-24-2001, 09:28 AM
#11
I've been looking into this for quite some time and have been planning on doing an article about this. Most of the stuff that I've found doesn't have enough stick or is WAY too thick to go over the smallest bend. The stuff lacking stick can be used, just use 3m spray adhesive on the sticky side before you apply it to the body. The thick stuff is unusable as it quickly will peal off once the body takes a couple of hits...the flexing will cause it to become loose. The 'secret' to making an ink jet work is to put packing tape (or some other clear tape) over the sticker. The tape protects the ink and makes the normally flat ink appear shinny. Hoe that helps...and look for the article coming soon.
08-24-2001, 09:50 AM
#12
Thats racer X!
08-24-2001, 09:55 AM
#13
Addict sa RC- The paint will actually act as a "sealer" for the ink. The only thing you have to watch for is that none of the chassis can touch the inside paintwork where the decal is because you can "scrap" the paint/ink off. A coating of clear glue will sort this out , although it is not essential.
I have attached a picture of a Porsche GT1 shell I used on a Mugen MTX last year. ALL the decals are stuck on the inside, including headlights and the red lettering on the roof. The shell lasted about 2 months of "hard" running, when I threw it away the decals were all still very much intact, which was more than I could have said about the wheel arches and rear wing!
Now-a-days, I'm too lazy to scan the decals which come will the shells so I just "selectively" use the self print decals! Just make sure the plastic sheet is very soft and pliable. I use a local Hong Kong brand so I do not know about the Avery stickers.
One last thing. These stickers are not as "sticky" as normal decals, keep away from wet weather driving. Besides than I encountered no problems with the sticker lifting.
I have attached a picture of a Porsche GT1 shell I used on a Mugen MTX last year. ALL the decals are stuck on the inside, including headlights and the red lettering on the roof. The shell lasted about 2 months of "hard" running, when I threw it away the decals were all still very much intact, which was more than I could have said about the wheel arches and rear wing!
Now-a-days, I'm too lazy to scan the decals which come will the shells so I just "selectively" use the self print decals! Just make sure the plastic sheet is very soft and pliable. I use a local Hong Kong brand so I do not know about the Avery stickers.
One last thing. These stickers are not as "sticky" as normal decals, keep away from wet weather driving. Besides than I encountered no problems with the sticker lifting.
08-24-2001, 10:00 AM
#14
Just remembered one more thing. Let the inkjet ink dry for at least one day before spraying... and do thin coats. Once the first coat seals the ink it is then ok to spray thicker. I used Tamiya paints which are solvent based, I don't know how the ink will react to acrylic paints.