Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

A well set up 008 can match it with most of the new chassis. Mines is getting really tired and with the price of xray spares its going to cost around $220 in parts for my next rebuild. If i did not have sentiments i would have a new T3 ordered. Im afraid as soon as i drive someone else's that it will be all over

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

Good thing I'm not running the 39 in VTA then. I'm running a Mamba Max Pro esc and depending on what timing I'm running the temps range from 130's to 170's after an 8 minute main and a minute or two warming up the tires.

trerc

iTrader: (89)

Okay... Maybe that's a typo???

lowcel

iTrader: (80)

Nope, I use a 38 on my VTA and when I used the T2 for 17.5 I used a 39.

I'm really not sure why you are so set on trying to prove me wrong on this. I posted a reply and made some suggestions and included what his final drive ratio's would be with those suggestions.

Feel free to pick this post apart or any of my other posts if you are that bored.

trerc

iTrader: (89)

I will add that depending on what esc you are using you may watch your motor temps because depending on the track you will likely be over geared at 4.2 with the SPX or Tekin RS

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

howdy guys, just baught my self a used 008.
i havent got it as yet, but awaiting its arrival.
the car looks in good shape from the pics, and i wonder how this car compares withe the new T3 ?
im only just starting out in electric, this will be my first onroad electric tourer.
are there any things i should know to get things happening the right way first up.
esc is a tekin pro, and a speed passion 17.5. cheers.

trerc

iTrader: (89)

You made a great choice. The 008 is an awesome car, for set up sheets and team support you can also check out the Xray forums.

http://forum.teamxray.com/

billjacobs

iTrader: (65)

In talking with team drivers who actually understand setups, etc, the difference between the 008 vs t3 is:

1) they moved the flex points in the chassis by splitting the bulkheads and arm pickups (shorter bulkheads means more potential flex)
2) they made the 1 piece top deck almost the length of the car (means you can take out more screws to add flex
3) they moved the motor in more
4) they made the battery cutouts wider so you can move the battery in/out and still have it on the chassis
5) they included the l1/l2 quick roll center adjusters (different camber gain options)
6) they went to the 38/20 pulleys (is supposed to make the car easier to drive
7) the cutouts under the diffs are wider allowing easier belt flipping (you can do this in the 008, but with the 38 tooth pulleys, the pulleys are very close to the chassis)
8) other smalll differences

What all of the above means is that the car is easier to drive fast and carries more corner speed.

Of course the big difference is $220 or so for used 008 vs $500 for a new t3.

joeling

iTrader: (6)

Hi,

I am new to onroad racing. I am usually an offroad guy. Just bought myself a Xray T2R for an upcoming race next week.

I need a little advice on motor choice. The race will be on asphalt usually running 10th scale nitro touring. Sometimes, 8th scale is also run but a little tight.

There is no restriction on motor / esc combo except that the battery need to be maximum of 2S. Handout rubber tires will be used.

My pulley is 34T/20T. Spur is 84T & I have no pinion at the moment. I have a choice of either 5.5T or 11.5T motor.

Race is 5 minutes long in a 3 best times out of 5 format.

What FDR is a good starting point & which motor will be a better choice under the above circumstances.

Race location is in Malaysia where it is hot & humid all year round.

Thanks.

Regards,
Joe Ling

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

and save yourself some money.

hardmankam

Hi Joe,

What motor and gearing will largely depend on the size and the layout of your track. However, being on a 1/10 nitro track, I assume that it will be a large track with a long straight.

If this is the case, 5.5R is better.

For a typical 5.5R motor, the FDR range is 7.5 to 8.5 for 2S Lipo operation.

34/20 pulley has internal ratio of 1.7

For FDR=7.5, pinion is: 84*1.7/7.5 = 19
For FDR=8.5, pinion is: 84*1.7/8.5 = 17

Basically you can start at 17 and work your way up. The best way is also get a temp gun and monitor the temp of the motor. keep it below 65C and you will be safe.

BTW: if you change your pulley ratio to 38/20 (1.9) you will have a larger range of pinion to play with. you may do the calculation yourself.

As for ESC: LRP, Tekin, SpeedPassion are good products. Since you are running 5.5R, get the pro version.

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Random question - will the original T2 rear diff fit the 008? What about the belt?

Con

No, the outdrives are different. All the rest of the internal parts are the same tho

gonzo416

iTrader: (39)

I'm trying to find out what belts i need to convert to 34/20 to get a 1.7.
I have read 50 pages and no mention of belts.
Can 38/20 be done? if so, can someone list part #'s?
Also is there any other brand that makes the xray 30 5444 belt(3X183)?

Rockin Rich

iTrader: (1)

XRAY 38T Pulley Rubber-Spec Conversion Set (T2'009)
[XRA300944]

XRAY 38T Pulley Rubber-Spec Conversion Set (T2'009)




* 305058: T2 008 Diff Pulley 38T with Labyrinth Dust Covers
* 305188: T2 008 Composite Solid Axle 38T - Set
* 305432: High-Performance Kevlar Drive Belt Front 3x513mm
* 305446: High-Performance Kevlar Drive Belt Rear 3x189mm