Associated Factory Team TC5, Brushless, LiPo, Li-ion Nanophosphate, Tips and Tricks
11-07-2007, 09:23 PM
#436
Yes thats what i noticed when i got a tour of a V8 supercar work shop. I had a look at the front end and the adjustments for camber, caster and toe were done exactly the same way as RC. The front hubs even looked like the hubs on my Xray. I guess almost everything in RC would have be copied from actual race cars.
11-10-2007, 03:07 PM
#437
Drew-Thanks for the post.
I got a few parts in. The large diameter 1.75 mm anti roll bar is a nice gold color and is installed front and back. I replaced the entire front hub and axle assembly. The parts are flexible now so they don't break as easy, but the bearings enlarge their bores. This makes the wheels sloppy turning after a while. The new hubs fixed this problem. I also put on the 1/4 inch heat shrink which I stretch on the nose of needle nose pliers onto new drive axles. I decided to run the little spring on the axle cup to keep the heat shrink better located as the hub goes through its turning arc. You can see it in the photo. There seems to be enough space for all of this. Rotating while turning flexes the heat shrink quite a bit, on the front, it may or may not hold up. So far so good.
Second pic Ing Mesh Wheels
john
I got a few parts in. The large diameter 1.75 mm anti roll bar is a nice gold color and is installed front and back. I replaced the entire front hub and axle assembly. The parts are flexible now so they don't break as easy, but the bearings enlarge their bores. This makes the wheels sloppy turning after a while. The new hubs fixed this problem. I also put on the 1/4 inch heat shrink which I stretch on the nose of needle nose pliers onto new drive axles. I decided to run the little spring on the axle cup to keep the heat shrink better located as the hub goes through its turning arc. You can see it in the photo. There seems to be enough space for all of this. Rotating while turning flexes the heat shrink quite a bit, on the front, it may or may not hold up. So far so good.
Second pic Ing Mesh Wheels
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-10-2007 at 07:11 PM.
11-12-2007, 09:01 AM
#438
I received four replacement caps from Associated and they are machined correctly. Everything lines up now! Thanks for all the replies.
AE asked for the defective caps to be sent back so they could investigate further. Kudos to AE for taking care of their customers, as usual
AE asked for the defective caps to be sent back so they could investigate further. Kudos to AE for taking care of their customers, as usual
ManicRC-Ok then. They are busted. Send the part back. I put a straight edge on four caps that I have off the car. They are all straight. I would write and try to get them to send you the part with that last photo as proof. You should still be able to use the part then. Things will be under some tension but the car will work just fine.
Caps are also available from tower hobbies and Stormer hobbies.
John
Caps are also available from tower hobbies and Stormer hobbies.
John
11-14-2007, 06:59 PM
#439
ManicRC-Glad they got you fixed up.
Saleen S7R body by HPI
Here is a couple of pics of the next body I plan to race. It is a Saleen S7R by HPI. It comes with two pages of decals. Suggested paint is black, but I need to see the car through some shadows on the track which is partially shaded by trees. The front of the body is resting on my new lower custom made shock tower, still with the same mini RC18T shocks. No problems or leakage to report yet. I have not reopened them. This body has a good tall front fender tub to allow the tires to go up into full bump without rubbing while at the same time allowing a low hood. The rear has plenty of room for wheel travel as well. I may or may not have to add more wing. The wing is lower but is farther rearward than on a sedan body. I have used rear body posts on the front shock tower.
An interesting durability note. I noticed that my first two front arm breakages where right at the lower shock pivot hole. The smaller shock pops off on this kind of impact that bottoms the shock very hard and saves the arm. No arm breakages since.
The third pic is a full size Saleen S7R. More pics and text here on the full size car. Note that the HPI kit comes with recessed headlight assembly and decals that will make them look much like the original. I put my fiberglass reinforcing tape underneath instead.
John
Saleen S7R body by HPI
Here is a couple of pics of the next body I plan to race. It is a Saleen S7R by HPI. It comes with two pages of decals. Suggested paint is black, but I need to see the car through some shadows on the track which is partially shaded by trees. The front of the body is resting on my new lower custom made shock tower, still with the same mini RC18T shocks. No problems or leakage to report yet. I have not reopened them. This body has a good tall front fender tub to allow the tires to go up into full bump without rubbing while at the same time allowing a low hood. The rear has plenty of room for wheel travel as well. I may or may not have to add more wing. The wing is lower but is farther rearward than on a sedan body. I have used rear body posts on the front shock tower.
An interesting durability note. I noticed that my first two front arm breakages where right at the lower shock pivot hole. The smaller shock pops off on this kind of impact that bottoms the shock very hard and saves the arm. No arm breakages since.
The third pic is a full size Saleen S7R. More pics and text here on the full size car. Note that the HPI kit comes with recessed headlight assembly and decals that will make them look much like the original. I put my fiberglass reinforcing tape underneath instead.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-15-2007 at 08:44 PM.
11-15-2007, 07:36 PM
#442
Tech Apprentice
here are some pics of my new tc5. this kit was a pleasure to build. i had no issues with fit and finish
11-16-2007, 03:44 PM
#443
Prossi- Nice. Thanks for the report.
Track Report-
Track very dusty, traction medium on rubber.
I tested the new Saleen S7R body (link goes to the new pic of the full size car I posted above). It was perfectly balanced on the turns with a much smaller rear wing. This should improve speed on the straight. The body is longer but did not feel overly long in the turns. The center of gravity is lower on this body. I ran the heavy sway bars, but thought they were a bit too much on the sweeper as the car drifted wide of the line. I went back to medium. The low body should prevent traction rolls during a club race.
The front drive axle heat shrink did not like the need to steer. There was some rubbing and difficult steering apparent. I trimmed the inner part off the axle right where it contacts the heat shrink disk at the edge of the axles drive cup. This prevented contact with the caster block. It should still provide some protection from dirt as well as hold the pin in place. I'll see. It is working fine at the rear as pictured previously.
I broke my homade diff with a hard corner hit to the flapper board. I'll see how much trouble it is to glue and screw in a new outdrive. I think I can Dremmel out the glued seam with the diamond grit coated needle tip on the Dremmel.
My shipping problem from TIR was cleared up on second attempt. They apparently mixed up my unsuccesful order a week previous with the succesful order and had a mixed payment picture. Anyway they promise me some of their new Vortex Pinions as a compensation. Pictures to come.
My front wheel nuts are mysteriously backing off after proper very tight install. They are pretty new. This may have something to do with the springiness of the plastic locked diff.
John
I dissasembled my homemade plastic Locked diff (pic). The glue up was really solid. All parts were fused into one solid piece. I had to saw and sand the broken half off to remove my bearings. These are only needed for proper alignment. I made a new one and this time omitted the screws and one bearing. The second bearing is placed slightly offset from its original position to center the pulley and the opposite side diff half at the same time. This allows the center screw to tighten things up better. The thrust bearing can be replaced by a plastic spacer. Now you might not want to build this except in an emergency when you are lacking other parts. This is the position I find myself in with the late TiR delivery.
john
Track Report-
Track very dusty, traction medium on rubber.
I tested the new Saleen S7R body (link goes to the new pic of the full size car I posted above). It was perfectly balanced on the turns with a much smaller rear wing. This should improve speed on the straight. The body is longer but did not feel overly long in the turns. The center of gravity is lower on this body. I ran the heavy sway bars, but thought they were a bit too much on the sweeper as the car drifted wide of the line. I went back to medium. The low body should prevent traction rolls during a club race.
The front drive axle heat shrink did not like the need to steer. There was some rubbing and difficult steering apparent. I trimmed the inner part off the axle right where it contacts the heat shrink disk at the edge of the axles drive cup. This prevented contact with the caster block. It should still provide some protection from dirt as well as hold the pin in place. I'll see. It is working fine at the rear as pictured previously.
I broke my homade diff with a hard corner hit to the flapper board. I'll see how much trouble it is to glue and screw in a new outdrive. I think I can Dremmel out the glued seam with the diamond grit coated needle tip on the Dremmel.
My shipping problem from TIR was cleared up on second attempt. They apparently mixed up my unsuccesful order a week previous with the succesful order and had a mixed payment picture. Anyway they promise me some of their new Vortex Pinions as a compensation. Pictures to come.
My front wheel nuts are mysteriously backing off after proper very tight install. They are pretty new. This may have something to do with the springiness of the plastic locked diff.
John
I dissasembled my homemade plastic Locked diff (pic). The glue up was really solid. All parts were fused into one solid piece. I had to saw and sand the broken half off to remove my bearings. These are only needed for proper alignment. I made a new one and this time omitted the screws and one bearing. The second bearing is placed slightly offset from its original position to center the pulley and the opposite side diff half at the same time. This allows the center screw to tighten things up better. The thrust bearing can be replaced by a plastic spacer. Now you might not want to build this except in an emergency when you are lacking other parts. This is the position I find myself in with the late TiR delivery.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-16-2007 at 05:19 PM.
11-16-2007, 08:34 PM
#444
NiMH fire
I thought I would give equal time to this incident since I witnessed the after affects myself today. The culprit was a small receiver pack in a 1/10 Nitro Car. The pack was being charged in the car as is common. The pack blew a couple or one of the rear cells strongly first, this propelled the pack forward and broke it though a battery bulkhead. The event proceeded by igniting and burning the tank, steering servo steering bits, top plate. Fortunately there was no gas in the tank. The ammount of destruction was similar to my previous LiPo fire which I posted earlier in this thread.
I have seen a second similar NiMH pack blow a cell in the car. We got it out just in time for the next three cells to blow in sequence. A lot of smoke but no car damage.
I am looking at good LiPo socks at present. Tower has one decently priced at about $24 now called the LiPo sack. The ones I viewed at our store are pretty huge, but maybe this is necessary to absorb the battery contents expelled under pressure. I am charging in a safe place at present, but the thought of one bad cell taking out two good packs is mind numbing.
My new glued plastic locked diff is now the same weight as the Associated Aluminum Spool, 12 g. I left out the center screw and one bearing. The glue seemed to make it one very solid piece after it dried.
John
I thought I would give equal time to this incident since I witnessed the after affects myself today. The culprit was a small receiver pack in a 1/10 Nitro Car. The pack was being charged in the car as is common. The pack blew a couple or one of the rear cells strongly first, this propelled the pack forward and broke it though a battery bulkhead. The event proceeded by igniting and burning the tank, steering servo steering bits, top plate. Fortunately there was no gas in the tank. The ammount of destruction was similar to my previous LiPo fire which I posted earlier in this thread.
I have seen a second similar NiMH pack blow a cell in the car. We got it out just in time for the next three cells to blow in sequence. A lot of smoke but no car damage.
I am looking at good LiPo socks at present. Tower has one decently priced at about $24 now called the LiPo sack. The ones I viewed at our store are pretty huge, but maybe this is necessary to absorb the battery contents expelled under pressure. I am charging in a safe place at present, but the thought of one bad cell taking out two good packs is mind numbing.
My new glued plastic locked diff is now the same weight as the Associated Aluminum Spool, 12 g. I left out the center screw and one bearing. The glue seemed to make it one very solid piece after it dried.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-16-2007 at 08:47 PM.
11-17-2007, 08:42 AM
#445
Prossi- Nice. Thanks for the report.
Track Report-
Track very dusty, traction medium on rubber.
I tested the new Saleen S7R body (link goes to the new pic of the full size car I posted above). It was perfectly balanced on the turns with a much smaller rear wing. This should improve speed on the straight. The body is longer but did not feel overly long in the turns. The center of gravity is lower on this body. I ran the heavy sway bars, but thought they were a bit too much on the sweeper as the car drifted wide of the line. I went back to medium. The low body should prevent traction rolls during a club race.
The front drive axle heat shrink did not like the need to steer. There was some rubbing and difficult steering apparent. I trimmed the inner part off the axle right where it contacts the heat shrink disk at the edge of the axles drive cup. This prevented contact with the caster block. It should still provide some protection from dirt as well as hold the pin in place. I'll see. It is working fine at the rear as pictured previously.
I broke my homade diff with a hard corner hit to the flapper board. I'll see how much trouble it is to glue and screw in a new outdrive. I think I can Dremmel out the glued seam with the diamond grit coated needle tip on the Dremmel.
My shipping problem from TIR was cleared up on second attempt. They apparently mixed up my unsuccesful order a week previous with the succesful order and had a mixed payment picture. Anyway they promise me some of their new Vortex Pinions as a compensation. Pictures to come.
My front wheel nuts are mysteriously backing off after proper very tight install. They are pretty new. This may have something to do with the springiness of the plastic locked diff.
John
I dissasembled my homemade plastic Locked diff (pic). The glue up was really solid. All parts were fused into one solid piece. I had to saw and sand the broken half off to remove my bearings. These are only needed for proper alignment. I made a new one and this time omitted the screws and one bearing. The second bearing is placed slightly offset from its original position to center the pulley and the opposite side diff half at the same time. This allows the center screw to tighten things up better. The thrust bearing can be replaced by a plastic spacer. Now you might not want to build this except in an emergency when you are lacking other parts. This is the position I find myself in with the late TiR delivery.
john
Track Report-
Track very dusty, traction medium on rubber.
I tested the new Saleen S7R body (link goes to the new pic of the full size car I posted above). It was perfectly balanced on the turns with a much smaller rear wing. This should improve speed on the straight. The body is longer but did not feel overly long in the turns. The center of gravity is lower on this body. I ran the heavy sway bars, but thought they were a bit too much on the sweeper as the car drifted wide of the line. I went back to medium. The low body should prevent traction rolls during a club race.
The front drive axle heat shrink did not like the need to steer. There was some rubbing and difficult steering apparent. I trimmed the inner part off the axle right where it contacts the heat shrink disk at the edge of the axles drive cup. This prevented contact with the caster block. It should still provide some protection from dirt as well as hold the pin in place. I'll see. It is working fine at the rear as pictured previously.
I broke my homade diff with a hard corner hit to the flapper board. I'll see how much trouble it is to glue and screw in a new outdrive. I think I can Dremmel out the glued seam with the diamond grit coated needle tip on the Dremmel.
My shipping problem from TIR was cleared up on second attempt. They apparently mixed up my unsuccesful order a week previous with the succesful order and had a mixed payment picture. Anyway they promise me some of their new Vortex Pinions as a compensation. Pictures to come.
My front wheel nuts are mysteriously backing off after proper very tight install. They are pretty new. This may have something to do with the springiness of the plastic locked diff.
John
I dissasembled my homemade plastic Locked diff (pic). The glue up was really solid. All parts were fused into one solid piece. I had to saw and sand the broken half off to remove my bearings. These are only needed for proper alignment. I made a new one and this time omitted the screws and one bearing. The second bearing is placed slightly offset from its original position to center the pulley and the opposite side diff half at the same time. This allows the center screw to tighten things up better. The thrust bearing can be replaced by a plastic spacer. Now you might not want to build this except in an emergency when you are lacking other parts. This is the position I find myself in with the late TiR delivery.
john
the best wheel nuts that I have used were from HPI. I'll get you the part number later on today. I will go by the shop and see if they have some in stock and take a pic of them as well.
11-17-2007, 09:44 AM
#446
STLNLST-Thanks. I'll give those HPI nuts a try. I have been using succesfully Losi nut which are narrow. I bought a set of TC3 nuts to hide a little more of the axle as they are taller. This prevents the axle from digging into the boards. I think that they are a bit too tall and the nylon is not fully engaged. I put on the TC5 nuts now which are "hidden" in the sway bar bag of parts. They are a little shorter and fully engage the nylon. They may work out as well.
john
john
11-17-2007, 04:26 PM
#447
STLNLST-Thanks. I'll give those HPI nuts a try. I have been using succesfully Losi nut which are narrow. I bought a set of TC3 nuts to hide a little more of the axle as they are taller. This prevents the axle from digging into the boards. I think that they are a bit too tall and the nylon is not fully engaged. I put on the TC5 nuts now which are "hidden" in the sway bar bag of parts. They are a little shorter and fully engage the nylon. They may work out as well.
john
john
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61093
11-17-2007, 05:31 PM
#448
Use the Hot Bodies Cyclone WCE self-locking wheel nuts. Stormer has them in stock- they have black, blue, and purple...
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61093
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=HOT61093
those are the one's. I still would like to get you a picture of the packaging. I didn't get a chance to get to the hobby shop today (yard work) I will take a pic of mine and post them on here. I have the purple one's.
11-19-2007, 09:06 AM
#450
mcmaster.com also has any (and I mean that) nut you could ever desire - from low profile nylon insert lock nuts to whatever. Very inexpensive and anything you want.