chris moore

iTrader: (96)

Opps sorry thought you had the R version. Not sure, on the sticks I've been runing the CH now for awhile and all my R/RR stuff is packed away or I'd check. Your best bet is to send Jason a PM or call direct and talk to him, he will know and can tell you what he has in the way of parts. Its a good car and once you get the setup sorted you'll be very pleased with its performance.

dkrall

I was happy with the way it was driving at the end of the day, but like I said that was the first time I'd driven 1/12, so I hadn't known (and still don't) what is good or not. Now I drove a CRC, but that was set-up very well for the track I was running. I'm sure eventually I can get it just a smooth. Everyone seems to think highly of these cars.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

http://www.bmiracing.com/webstore/ca...products_id=67

-showtime-

iTrader: (1)

Glad you made it down to beaver. Everyone down there is pretty helpful and wont steer you wrong. The thin plates are .065 and the thick ones are .080, I only ran the thin ones, always found the thick ones way to stiff. Did you check with john at AB Charles? he had some BMI parts in stock. I still have some RR stuff so if you can't find any plates let me know and I'll send you some. I had a killer setup for my RR, I should still have my notes for it. I'll dig around and post it if I still have it. I usually don't race in the summer because of full scale racing,but I'll be around beaver and the gate in the fall to help. I'll try to help you out as much as I can on here though, pm me any time.

dkrall

Okay mine has thin on it now. I think the right side was shimmed up a little more however. The whole right side was shimmed higher when I bought the car though, so I'm thinking it was used for oval.

I don't think John had anything as far as parts, mainly just the BMI pinion gears in stock. I'll give him a call later today though and see.

-showtime-

iTrader: (1)

It may have been used for that, or it may have something bent somewhere and they were trying to correct a tweek with the shims. When you have everything apart, take the aluminum pod plates and all the carbon pieces and lay them on a flat piece of glass to make sure they aren't bent or twisted. Usually if something is bent on the pod it's the motor side pod plate.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Anyone got a link to the manual for the DB12RR? I got the one for the DB12R. Went to the BMI site for the DB12RR manual and Adobe Acrobat says that the file is damaged.

What is the difference between the DB12R and the DB12RR?

adam lancia

iTrader: (2)

You have a PM.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

here is the 12r,it opens it must be on your end
http://bmiracing.com/bmiv4/images/in...structions.pdf

Satish

iTrader: (7)

If there is anyone looking for a DB12RR I have one for sale, lots of parts, bodies tyres and some electronics, booster, and 1c batteries.

s

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Thanks but like I said I already have the one for the DB12R. I'm looking for the DB12RR manual which seems to be damaged on the BMI site.

LonnyJ1950

Send Jason a PM. He WILL help you. He is the best for support.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

I picked up a DB12R a while back and I have finally been able to get it running recently. So far things have been okay but as I get more and more into tuning this thing for my track, I'm beginning to find some some problems.

First of all, I am seriously behind on the learning curve for all things BMI and have just read back through many pages dating all the way to early '08 between the development of the single "R" and the double "R".

First problem: I am using 1s lipo with the o-ring to hold it in place. The lipo is pushed all the towards the back with the electronics holding it in front. The problem was that the rear end was not so free and seem to bind a bit in its movement. I notice its because the lipo case is pushing against the "hockey sticks" that is causing this binding. I need to move the battery more forward and find some way to hold it in the rear to keep it from binding on the suspension links.

Second problem: The chassis I have uses the two piece battery brace/ body mount holder. I notice that there is some flexing between the two sides. Other cars like CRC, Speedmerchant and etc. don't have this problem because of the tweak plate that braces the chassis in the rear. Is it okay to have this flexing?

It looks like the solution, after looking back on this thread, is the one piece battery brace. I found two different ones. One with the extra hole and the other without the extra hole. My chassis doesn't have the extra hole but I can probably drill the extra hole if need be. Just wondering if I need or want the brace with the extra hole or not. What are the advantages to mounting the suspension links on the extra hole?

Also, BMI doesn't show suspension links available on their website. Is it just not listed and maybe they still have left over stock to sell? I'm looking for the super thin ones.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

InspGadgt

I would suggest using tape to hold the battery in rather than the o-ring...once you do that the flex in the back goes away. Also that chassis was designed for round cells so the o-ring won't keep the pack from sliding around where tape will.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Any glass fiber tape will do or do I have to get those RC oriented color ones? Last time I used tape was back in the '80s but all we had back then was the generic glass fiber tape from the hardware store.