BMI's DB12R
02-09-2009, 09:50 PM
#7006
I´m ready for ordering a DB12RR from the one european shop. For ordering some spares is it better going for the newer front arms as with the kit or going with some milled down AE arms? What is a less tight fit with the metal suspension balls?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
02-09-2009, 11:09 PM
#7007
I´m ready for ordering a DB12RR from the one european shop. For ordering some spares is it better going for the newer front arms as with the kit or going with some milled down AE arms? What is a less tight fit with the metal suspension balls?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
Also are the plastic housing for the rear pivot ball and flexplates a really needed spare means they could break?
I have not broken any of those housing within 2 seasons of driving in mod, but I 'm still keeping them in my pit, because you never know what may happen and if you don't have anybody in the club who is supporting parts for BMI, then better invest a few bucks in spares. Most common spares you would like to keep are: DB1041R, DB1094, DB3010R.
Welcome to the BMI family
02-10-2009, 04:36 AM
#7008
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Man... Thanks for the email Jason and that explains why I was having trouble at the birds after I broke the IRS arms and used a different vendors lower front arms...
And YES TAP the front holes of the IRS arms.. I posted this problem a couple of pages ago and using a drill will work but after the screw been taken out/put back in it gets worn out...
And YES TAP the front holes of the IRS arms.. I posted this problem a couple of pages ago and using a drill will work but after the screw been taken out/put back in it gets worn out...
02-10-2009, 03:18 PM
#7009
IRS arms are great, but working them with a 8-32 tapper is essential if you don't want to break them before even getting to the track. I ordered some tappers from http://modelfixings.com/ , great service.
I have not broken any of those housing within 2 seasons of driving in mod, but I 'm still keeping them in my pit, because you never know what may happen and if you don't have anybody in the club who is supporting parts for BMI, then better invest a few bucks in spares. Most common spares you would like to keep are: DB1041R, DB1094, DB3010R.
Welcome to the BMI family
I have not broken any of those housing within 2 seasons of driving in mod, but I 'm still keeping them in my pit, because you never know what may happen and if you don't have anybody in the club who is supporting parts for BMI, then better invest a few bucks in spares. Most common spares you would like to keep are: DB1041R, DB1094, DB3010R.
Welcome to the BMI family
I have looked for that tap but there are different types of taps and I don´t know what is the correct one. Do you have the part # for this or the correct description?
02-10-2009, 03:48 PM
#7010
Any 8-32 machine thread tap should work.
02-10-2009, 10:50 PM
#7011
Here is the 10.5 setup I have been working on for awhile. Its pretty good, double pink fronts might finish it off, but lilacs last 8mins. 
02-11-2009, 08:59 PM
#7012
Does anyone know if this a real body for 1/12 cars or is done purely by VRC Racing software?
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02-11-2009, 09:01 PM
#7013
02-11-2009, 09:06 PM
#7014
02-11-2009, 09:11 PM
#7015
http://www.rcplanet.com/Corvette_C6_...prm1499-00.htm
02-12-2009, 07:52 AM
#7016
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
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The body in that pic is a Ferrari 599GTB. Yummmmmy 
02-12-2009, 02:34 PM
#7019
If you find out let us know, I'd love to have one of those.
02-12-2009, 02:57 PM
#7020
Looking back I'd have to guess that is a photo chopped image as well...look carefully at the rear wheel. It has 4 bolts that don't align with the wheel.