protc3

iTrader: (13)

I will have Jason Schreffler send me his 17.5 setup from 360 raceway last weekend.

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

sweet, Thanks!

Also just curious... with all the emphasis on weight savings, why the use of all steel screws? Is there an issue replacing them with alloy's down the road?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Aluminum screws stip out real easy. They also break easily in an impact. i didnt want to have the screws break on people so i went with the steel screws. Saving weight is important but a light car is only good if you finish the race.

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

Yeh thats what I thought. Most of these cars will be way under weight with LiPo in the future anyway so I guess it doesnt matter

BTW I am still going through building the car... I am very impressed at the quality of all the components in this kit... its pretty much all the good stuff you'd have to buy aftermarket for any other car. Excellent kit... I am pretty sure this will attract some attention from the local club where most run R5's and L4's.

GLITTER LIDZ

iTrader: (2)

Jason you have a pm

protc3

iTrader: (13)

Thanks alot for the kind words buddy. We do our best to make the best possible kit we can. We dont make compromises. I want to offer the most complete car on the market and this is the result.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

I did find one build issue. And this could be whats happening for another guy a few pages back where the chassis wasnt sitting flat.

The large screws for the front steering bulkheads are too tall even with tall spacers under the lower arms. THe top of the front screw binds against the uper A Arm. Any thoughts on this? or did I miss part of the build where this shouldnt happen?

protc3

iTrader: (13)

It shouldnt hit if you have the tall and thin both stacked under each pad on the arm. Let me know if it still does this. Any less than .120 worth of shims is too low and you wont use.

Swampracer

iTrader: (72)

Hey Jason,

Can I get some part numbers for some extra parts: All for the DB12RR

Front lower arms
Thin Flex Plates
Thick Flex plates

I couldn't find these on the website, so if I order them how do I include them in my next order?

Thanks Greg G

protc3

iTrader: (13)

The PN for the front arms is DB2010,new standard flex plates is DB3010R and the new thin flex plates are DB3015R. I will get everything updated on the website.

schreff

iTrader: (5)

You want my setup? HUH? That'll be $1,000,000 USD by the end of business today.

Here's what I have from memory without looking at the car. The setup wasn't perfect. I've been continuously experimenting trying to find what I want with the car. This may work for some, but not all of you.

-Front-
-BMI .020 springs w/ about .010 spring sag
-#5 surelube on kingpins
-6* caster
-5* reactive blocks
- -1 camber
-#4 ride height adjusters
-Servo flat with tall ball studs on steering blocks to fix bumpsteer
-Parma Coral tires

-Rear-
-.064 flex plates (long)
-#4 surelube in tubes
-silva shock w/ 40wt oil and ASC red spring (not sure on length)
-ASC shock mount raised 2mm and medium ball stud on mount (mount also all the way back on chassis)
-battery full forward
-Parma Gray tires

Gearing was 80/49 with a Losi 17.5. It probably could have used another tooth. The body was a Parma Speed 8 LW. I don't remember the rear ride height adjusters. The car was 3.5mm ride height in front and 4mm in rear. The front tires were glued too. The rears only had the bead glued so they wouldn't rip off the rims. The traction was crazy high at 360 for the regionals.

This setup, at 360, pushed a little off power. Then again, I'm not 100% sure how good it would have been if I would have put fresh tires on it. It probably would have turned more. Either way... it's still a work in progress, but something definitely to try. And no, I did not use tweak screws.

t4mania

iTrader: (5)

Are you guys who bought the conversion kit using the flex plates that came with it or are you using the thin plates. Whats the advantage of each.

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

Got her all wired up and ready to go over my lunch break. Here are some shots. (sorry for them being a bit burry, I just used the last setting on my SLR when I took these and it was prety wide open...)

So out of the box with moving the ESC cap to the other side of the antenna, the car ballances out perfectly.

No real setup on the car... no goop in teh tubes yet or on the king pins..

Oh and the weird looking thing on the end of the axel is the Slapmaster thrust bearing... worth its weight in gold. All the bearings are ceramic including the diff balls brought over from my former 1/12th.

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

just curious what you guys use to shim up the shock mount 2mm higher?

Clegg

iTrader: (9)

Also, before I go spending $37.00 on Shur lube, I already own many weights of heavy silicone oils (3000,5000, 7000, 10000, etc...) Any idea what Shur Lube 3, 4 and 5 equate to in standard silicone weights?