Kyosho VoneR Thread
#8206
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Originally posted by finchy
tl2111 are you venturing north for the QLD titles or the Nationals, sound like you have a few idea's on the V One R.
tl2111 are you venturing north for the QLD titles or the Nationals, sound like you have a few idea's on the V One R.
I won't be racing in QLD title but I'll be there at the NATS.
well I count myself only average in Nitro but driving V1R for 2 season now sure I know a bit of the car
#8207
is the V1RR assemble manual available online?
#8208
Originally posted by Manticore
is the V1RR assemble manual available online?
is the V1RR assemble manual available online?
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/instructionm..._vone_rr_m.pdf
#8209
Thanks to ESHAM for this pic:
Looks darned low.
However I think my Kawahara engine mounts are a little lower. Need to check when the kit arrives (if?!).
Looks darned low.
However I think my Kawahara engine mounts are a little lower. Need to check when the kit arrives (if?!).
#8210
Originally posted by TBR
You running QLDs Taylor racing?? How about you Finchy??
Whats this about you not racing this weekend?? Whats going on?
Do you really think it will be down at the track this weekend?
You running QLDs Taylor racing?? How about you Finchy??
Whats this about you not racing this weekend?? Whats going on?
Do you really think it will be down at the track this weekend?
Who's running from this forum?
#8212
Yeah I'm running Qld's have to wait and see about the National. Brendale Track is only 5 mins from home and 2 min from work, so I'd say more than likely nats as well.
#8213
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Thanks to ESHAM for this pic:
Thanks to ESHAM for this pic:
#8214
Tech Apprentice
Re: Re: Help? Standard Diff Question
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
I think the general consensus is to use 3mm screws instead of the standard 2.6mm or what ever they are.
I recently had a problem even with the 3mm screws and have substituted 3mm x 10mm machine screws. If you intend to use machine screws, you will need to drill out the 2mm holes to 2.5mm otherwise there is a risk of distorting the plastic which may cause the gears to bind. Only use a very sharp drill for this - the tolerances using machine screws are much tighter.
I now use Permatex non hardening gasket goo to seal the diff - silicone is too "squirmey" IMHO and also seems to be soluable in the diff oil.
As for what oils to use, I'm gonna guess for you.
7K in the rear and 30K in the front should be a fair "all-rounder" - there will be plenty of opinions on this one.
I have no idea what oils come in the kit but if you follow their instrustions that'd be fine too.
I think the general consensus is to use 3mm screws instead of the standard 2.6mm or what ever they are.
I recently had a problem even with the 3mm screws and have substituted 3mm x 10mm machine screws. If you intend to use machine screws, you will need to drill out the 2mm holes to 2.5mm otherwise there is a risk of distorting the plastic which may cause the gears to bind. Only use a very sharp drill for this - the tolerances using machine screws are much tighter.
I now use Permatex non hardening gasket goo to seal the diff - silicone is too "squirmey" IMHO and also seems to be soluable in the diff oil.
As for what oils to use, I'm gonna guess for you.
7K in the rear and 30K in the front should be a fair "all-rounder" - there will be plenty of opinions on this one.
I have no idea what oils come in the kit but if you follow their instrustions that'd be fine too.
I will give your recommendations a go. Thanks.
Cheers
#8215
Just built my V1RR. Whats the top ten hop up parts for this car?
The drive pulleys are plastic. Is there a metal set I can get?
Also what about the clutch in the 2 speed gearbox? This is also plastic and looks like it needs to be stronger.
The drive pulleys are plastic. Is there a metal set I can get?
Also what about the clutch in the 2 speed gearbox? This is also plastic and looks like it needs to be stronger.
#8216
Originally posted by finchy
. . . Work bloody work. Can some one tell me how can I sit on my ass and make millions a year and not leave home.
. . . Work bloody work. Can some one tell me how can I sit on my ass and make millions a year and not leave home.
Originally posted by finchy
Brendale Track is only 5 mins from home and 2 min from work . . . .
Brendale Track is only 5 mins from home and 2 min from work . . . .
Seems the only time you spend not on your ass is when you grab your lunch box and run to the car.
Just joking, now.
Last edited by Taylor-Racing; 07-27-2003 at 08:55 AM.
#8217
Re: Re: Re: Help? Standard Diff Question
Originally posted by rbgti
Thanks, Taylor. I think this is the first time anyone has ever responded to any of my questions on this thread.
I will give your recommendations a go. Thanks.
Cheers
Thanks, Taylor. I think this is the first time anyone has ever responded to any of my questions on this thread.
I will give your recommendations a go. Thanks.
Cheers
While I think of it, the diff case might be not perfectly flat on it's mounting surface. Place a piece of fine sandpaper (320 grit) on a piece of glass and flatten this area.
#8218
Originally posted by ziggy12345
Just built my V1RR. Whats the top ten hop up parts for this car?
The drive pulleys are plastic. Is there a metal set I can get?
Also what about the clutch in the 2 speed gearbox? This is also plastic and looks like it needs to be stronger.
Just built my V1RR. Whats the top ten hop up parts for this car?
The drive pulleys are plastic. Is there a metal set I can get?
Also what about the clutch in the 2 speed gearbox? This is also plastic and looks like it needs to be stronger.
But IMHO, forget the alloy pulleys - they can tend to sharpen themselves and they're heavy.
I think you'll find the 2 speed clutch is just fine.
#8219
evo conversion
where can I buy this?
#8220
PUTTING CLAY IN DIFFERENTIAL
Someone told me a technique instead of hard oil, you can put modelling clay in the front differential to tighten it. Is this effective and advisable? Need your thoughts please. tks.