Kyosho VoneR Thread
#6646
Tech Elite
vibrating jewelry cleaner
Guys;
Plastic may get attacked in time by some solvents. Also, some of the low cost Cleaners are 'Sonic' (meaning vibrating) and NOT 'Ultra Sonic'. The higher frequency of an Ultra Sonic cleaner really gets the crud out MUCH better.
Been happy using a Bearing Blaster, just takes longer.
Plastic may get attacked in time by some solvents. Also, some of the low cost Cleaners are 'Sonic' (meaning vibrating) and NOT 'Ultra Sonic'. The higher frequency of an Ultra Sonic cleaner really gets the crud out MUCH better.
Been happy using a Bearing Blaster, just takes longer.
#6647
What kind of setups would u guys recommend with this track it's my local track
#6648
Another
#6649
That track is pretty much a candidate for the stock setup. If you have a RR and are new to racing I would say add a front gear diff with 30K oil.
#6650
Solid Rear Axle
Hi Guys,
Well, we tried out that solid rear last weekend. It certainly is . . . errr . . different.
To summarise . . we were at the MRCCR (Lilydale) track. A large 1/8th scale track with a 200+ foot back straight. It's mostly pretty open with a couple of hairpins.
My driver (13 year old son) took most of the day (three five minute heats) to get on to it but was lapping in his usual bracket by the end of it - we had about twenty minutes of track time after the main was rained out and most people had packed up to go home.
This is what we found:
Car bolted out of corners like there was no tomorrow.
Very sensitive to throttle, inducing power on oversteer coming out of tighter hairpins, Throttle control is everything but on wider sweeping corners and elsewhere, no problem - actually pretty good.
We run Active foams 40/40 with the rears usually starting out1mm larger. Normally, wear is pretty even front to rear with a one-way and a 10K rear diff. With the solid axle, rear tyre wear was horrific. We ended the day with the rears 2mm smaller than the fronts!
We played with setup somewhat and actually ended up taking out most of the rear toe-in. It ended up at 1/2 degree. I know, I know . . more rear toe should have helped the power on oversteer, but it didn't. It's got lots more to do with throttle control, I reckon - that's a driver issue, not my department.
Anyway, we likely could invest more set-up time to perfect this, but question wheather the inherrent tyre wear issue will see us any further ahead, overall.
Is there is anything fundamental I've missed?
Comments welcome.
Well, we tried out that solid rear last weekend. It certainly is . . . errr . . different.
To summarise . . we were at the MRCCR (Lilydale) track. A large 1/8th scale track with a 200+ foot back straight. It's mostly pretty open with a couple of hairpins.
My driver (13 year old son) took most of the day (three five minute heats) to get on to it but was lapping in his usual bracket by the end of it - we had about twenty minutes of track time after the main was rained out and most people had packed up to go home.
This is what we found:
Car bolted out of corners like there was no tomorrow.
Very sensitive to throttle, inducing power on oversteer coming out of tighter hairpins, Throttle control is everything but on wider sweeping corners and elsewhere, no problem - actually pretty good.
We run Active foams 40/40 with the rears usually starting out1mm larger. Normally, wear is pretty even front to rear with a one-way and a 10K rear diff. With the solid axle, rear tyre wear was horrific. We ended the day with the rears 2mm smaller than the fronts!
We played with setup somewhat and actually ended up taking out most of the rear toe-in. It ended up at 1/2 degree. I know, I know . . more rear toe should have helped the power on oversteer, but it didn't. It's got lots more to do with throttle control, I reckon - that's a driver issue, not my department.
Anyway, we likely could invest more set-up time to perfect this, but question wheather the inherrent tyre wear issue will see us any further ahead, overall.
Is there is anything fundamental I've missed?
Comments welcome.
#6651
Re: Solid Rear Axle
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Hi Guys,
Well, we tried out that solid rear last weekend. It certainly is . . . errr . . different.
To summarise . . we were at the MRCCR (Lilydale) track. A large 1/8th scale track with a 200+ foot back straight. It's mostly pretty open with a couple of hairpins.
My driver (13 year old son) took most of the day (three five minute heats) to get on to it but was lapping in his usual bracket by the end of it - we had about twenty minutes of track time after the main was rained out and most people had packed up to go home.
This is what we found:
Car bolted out of corners like there was no tomorrow.
Very sensitive to throttle, inducing power on oversteer coming out of tighter hairpins, Throttle control is everything but on wider sweeping corners and elsewhere, no problem - actually pretty good.
We run Active foams 40/40 with the rears usually starting out1mm larger. Normally, wear is pretty even front to rear with a one-way and a 10K rear diff. With the solid axle, rear tyre wear was horrific. We ended the day with the rears 2mm smaller than the fronts!
We played with setup somewhat and actually ended up taking out most of the rear toe-in. It ended up at 1/2 degree. I know, I know . . more rear toe should have helped the power on oversteer, but it didn't. It's got lots more to do with throttle control, I reckon - that's a driver issue, not my department.
Anyway, we likely could invest more set-up time to perfect this, but question wheather the inherrent tyre wear issue will see us any further ahead, overall.
Is there is anything fundamental I've missed?
Comments welcome.
Hi Guys,
Well, we tried out that solid rear last weekend. It certainly is . . . errr . . different.
To summarise . . we were at the MRCCR (Lilydale) track. A large 1/8th scale track with a 200+ foot back straight. It's mostly pretty open with a couple of hairpins.
My driver (13 year old son) took most of the day (three five minute heats) to get on to it but was lapping in his usual bracket by the end of it - we had about twenty minutes of track time after the main was rained out and most people had packed up to go home.
This is what we found:
Car bolted out of corners like there was no tomorrow.
Very sensitive to throttle, inducing power on oversteer coming out of tighter hairpins, Throttle control is everything but on wider sweeping corners and elsewhere, no problem - actually pretty good.
We run Active foams 40/40 with the rears usually starting out1mm larger. Normally, wear is pretty even front to rear with a one-way and a 10K rear diff. With the solid axle, rear tyre wear was horrific. We ended the day with the rears 2mm smaller than the fronts!
We played with setup somewhat and actually ended up taking out most of the rear toe-in. It ended up at 1/2 degree. I know, I know . . more rear toe should have helped the power on oversteer, but it didn't. It's got lots more to do with throttle control, I reckon - that's a driver issue, not my department.
Anyway, we likely could invest more set-up time to perfect this, but question wheather the inherrent tyre wear issue will see us any further ahead, overall.
Is there is anything fundamental I've missed?
Comments welcome.
As for the tire wear issue thats the main reason I gave up on it in the end and went to the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane.
#6652
Re: Re: Solid Rear Axle
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Your comments sound pretty much like my results with the rear solid. One thing you need to do with a rear solid is add in more rear camber.
As for the tire wear issue thats the main reason I gave up on it in the end and went to the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane.
Your comments sound pretty much like my results with the rear solid. One thing you need to do with a rear solid is add in more rear camber.
As for the tire wear issue thats the main reason I gave up on it in the end and went to the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane.
You say that with "the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane."
I presume you mean "minimal", yeah?
#6654
Re: Re: Re: Solid Rear Axle
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Drat . . I was sorta hoping I'd missed something.
You say that with "the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane."
I presume you mean "minimal", yeah?
Drat . . I was sorta hoping I'd missed something.
You say that with "the Kyosho LSD. Tire wear is just insane."
I presume you mean "minimal", yeah?
#6655
Tech Adept
On prower Traction rolling
Does anyone know how to overcome the traction rolling?
#6656
Re: On prower Traction rolling
Originally posted by Getrice
Does anyone know how to overcome the traction rolling?
Does anyone know how to overcome the traction rolling?
Reduce ride height.
Stiffer springs.
Harder tyres.
More negative camber.
Limit droop - particularly the rear.
#6658
Re: On prower Traction rolling
Originally posted by Getrice
Does anyone know how to overcome the traction rolling?
Does anyone know how to overcome the traction rolling?
increase front castor angle
reduce front toe out
reduce front negative camber
#6659
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Mugen T0229 F/R Axle shaft 1 US$5.70
Mugen T0230 F/R drive shaft 1 US$5.00
Mugen T0139 rear up right 1 US$3.90
Mugen D0105R king pin 1 US$3.40
Mugen J0110 adjust nut 1 US$1.80
3 Racing MTX3-008 wheel adpator 1 US$5.20
10 x 15 ball bearing 2 US$2.00
6 x 13 ball bearing 2 US$2.00
These are prices in USD through a guy I use in HK. It cost me around AUD $50.
Mugen T0229 F/R Axle shaft 1 US$5.70
Mugen T0230 F/R drive shaft 1 US$5.00
Mugen T0139 rear up right 1 US$3.90
Mugen D0105R king pin 1 US$3.40
Mugen J0110 adjust nut 1 US$1.80
3 Racing MTX3-008 wheel adpator 1 US$5.20
10 x 15 ball bearing 2 US$2.00
6 x 13 ball bearing 2 US$2.00
These are prices in USD through a guy I use in HK. It cost me around AUD $50.
#6660
Originally posted by NitroJoe
AMG, could you gie me the link in HK. thanks,
AMG, could you gie me the link in HK. thanks,
However send that parts listing to Mr Lam at this email address:
[email protected]
He can send you this stuff via EMS postage and you can pay him via PayPal.