Tamiya M04
#76
Tech Regular
Tranz1978 - Great detail n creative bro.., kit friction shock body as muffler
Rccartips - I frequently visit your great site about 3 years ago, I have two M04, TCS Spec and Open-Class spec for bashing (powered by SS5800). My understanding that Tamiya consider M04 is too handful for beginner therefore they drop it in favor of M05. Even several 'senior' M03 racer on our track are prefer to skip learning this chassis .. , While tuned properly M04 will reward the meticulous tuner with Good grip, blast Acceleration, predictive cornering limit (its just drift progresively while pushed to hard..)..
Rccartips - I frequently visit your great site about 3 years ago, I have two M04, TCS Spec and Open-Class spec for bashing (powered by SS5800). My understanding that Tamiya consider M04 is too handful for beginner therefore they drop it in favor of M05. Even several 'senior' M03 racer on our track are prefer to skip learning this chassis .. , While tuned properly M04 will reward the meticulous tuner with Good grip, blast Acceleration, predictive cornering limit (its just drift progresively while pushed to hard..)..
#77
hi Faiz,
I guess 4wd has spoiled a lot of drivers. But i'm from the era of 2wd, rwd driving, so the M04 and F1 chassis are for my driving style. Plus more enjoyable. Weird to see rwd classic bodies (e.g. datsun/fairlady Z) on a fwd M05
I am working on my M05 just to see if a fwd can be as fast as rwd.
Happy holidays to everyone.
P.S. Just an old video. No M03s made the A-main... all M04s. Inside a Hong Kong mall in the Tamiya Asia Cup.
I guess 4wd has spoiled a lot of drivers. But i'm from the era of 2wd, rwd driving, so the M04 and F1 chassis are for my driving style. Plus more enjoyable. Weird to see rwd classic bodies (e.g. datsun/fairlady Z) on a fwd M05
I am working on my M05 just to see if a fwd can be as fast as rwd.
Happy holidays to everyone.
P.S. Just an old video. No M03s made the A-main... all M04s. Inside a Hong Kong mall in the Tamiya Asia Cup.
+ YouTube Video | |
#79
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Best way is to get someone to take your M04 in part trade for a 200mm TC (typically nitro...some converted electrics but those conversion parts are getting to be worth their weight in gold) or, better yet, toward a 200mm pan car because World GT allows several of those great HPI bodies.
#80
Tech Regular
What class would you like to join? Ok, if you really want it 200mm 1/10 then simply buy these ingredients ; 3 chassis spacer, TL-01 arm sets, TG10 wheel Axles, TL-01 dogbones, cut here and there,,
#82
Just got myself an m04m and built it tonight. Couple questions if you guys dont mind..
1. Why is it that I can't seem to find adjustable camber arms anywhere? If anyone knows of any I'd appreciate it if you could let me know.
2. My front suspension currently has zero droop. Is this normal? It's completely stock as it sits now.
3. Besides ball bearings and oil shocks, what else is a good idea to do on these things?
Thanks.
1. Why is it that I can't seem to find adjustable camber arms anywhere? If anyone knows of any I'd appreciate it if you could let me know.
2. My front suspension currently has zero droop. Is this normal? It's completely stock as it sits now.
3. Besides ball bearings and oil shocks, what else is a good idea to do on these things?
Thanks.
#83
Hi Zig,
1. Why is it that I can't seem to find adjustable camber arms anywhere? If anyone knows of any I'd appreciate it if you could let me know. Not really needed but if you can find them, they are the ones for M03/M05. Or just make them (ball ends, cups, rods cut short).
2. My front suspension currently has zero droop. Is this normal? It's completely stock as it sits now. Yes zero droop is good.
3. Besides ball bearings and oil shocks, what else is a good idea to do on these things? Get the tire balance right to prevent oversteer. I use Tamiya S-Grip rear, M-Grip front, with traction compound on asphalt. Hard front springs and soft rear. Plus the 2 deg rear toe in blocks.
Hope this helps.
1. Why is it that I can't seem to find adjustable camber arms anywhere? If anyone knows of any I'd appreciate it if you could let me know. Not really needed but if you can find them, they are the ones for M03/M05. Or just make them (ball ends, cups, rods cut short).
2. My front suspension currently has zero droop. Is this normal? It's completely stock as it sits now. Yes zero droop is good.
3. Besides ball bearings and oil shocks, what else is a good idea to do on these things? Get the tire balance right to prevent oversteer. I use Tamiya S-Grip rear, M-Grip front, with traction compound on asphalt. Hard front springs and soft rear. Plus the 2 deg rear toe in blocks.
Hope this helps.
#84
I'm using HPI MX60 Soft slicks with Cup Racer wheels on all four corners and the grip is insane.
#85
ok, thanks. I'm going to try the soft slicks I have in the rear with the stock tires in the front to start, and then go from there. As for camber arms, I noticed I had uneven camber side to side so I wanted to fix that. It's not too bad though... -1 degree on 3 corners and -2 on the other.
#86
zig, the motor size (left rear tire) is heavier due to motor weight. is this the one with the -2 deg camber? if so try adding a 2mm shim to the left rear shock.
#87
No, but that would make sense... It is actually one of the fronts, I forget which.
#88
You could also add the Tamiya motor mount/heatsink to the right side which adds a little weight to counter balance the motor. The mount is useful too because it allows a nice strong surface for the motor screws.
#89
Can't wait to see you're new M04 Ryan.
A question for everyone else... do the stock rear hubs have toe-in or is it just the sloppiness of the whole suspension that makes it look like they do?
A question for everyone else... do the stock rear hubs have toe-in or is it just the sloppiness of the whole suspension that makes it look like they do?
#90
yeah, they do, on recent kits anyway.