Schumacher R12 Fusion
11-05-2007, 12:16 AM
#484
Tech Adept
Congrats Marcos.J, looks like the R12 can still kick some butt 
I was quite happy with R12 performance when I ran it (for 3-4 seasons), but I just got tired of the DNF's and changed to MTX-4, which is a tank compared to R12, I think I've had like 2 DNF's in the semi or main in 2 years that I've ran it, and both were motor issues. But besides the durability issues, the R12 was a great performer.
I was quite happy with R12 performance when I ran it (for 3-4 seasons), but I just got tired of the DNF's and changed to MTX-4, which is a tank compared to R12, I think I've had like 2 DNF's in the semi or main in 2 years that I've ran it, and both were motor issues. But besides the durability issues, the R12 was a great performer.
11-05-2007, 01:19 PM
#485
Congrats Marcos.J, looks like the R12 can still kick some butt
I was quite happy with R12 performance when I ran it (for 3-4 seasons), but I just got tired of the DNF's and changed to MTX-4, which is a tank compared to R12, I think I've had like 2 DNF's in the semi or main in 2 years that I've ran it, and both were motor issues. But besides the durability issues, the R12 was a great performer.
I was quite happy with R12 performance when I ran it (for 3-4 seasons), but I just got tired of the DNF's and changed to MTX-4, which is a tank compared to R12, I think I've had like 2 DNF's in the semi or main in 2 years that I've ran it, and both were motor issues. But besides the durability issues, the R12 was a great performer.
09-17-2008, 07:10 AM
#488
R12 pointers
hi there, I know R12 is not the latest, but admire all things schumacher and have recently picked up 2 chassis and parts and have started to run one. Quick questions: 1. Is the front belt tensioner vital to operation of front belt? Even when new? 2. Any tip for getting this chassis hooked up to a starter box properly? 3. Any tips on making the clutch more 'snappy' when it engages? Many thanks
02-08-2009, 07:15 PM
#489
hi there, I know R12 is not the latest, but admire all things schumacher and have recently picked up 2 chassis and parts and have started to run one. Quick questions: 1. Is the front belt tensioner vital to operation of front belt? Even when new? 2. Any tip for getting this chassis hooked up to a starter box properly? 3. Any tips on making the clutch more 'snappy' when it engages? Many thanks
02-10-2009, 08:11 AM
#490
I still have a team kit for sale 
Brand new in the box
Brand new in the boxit may be a little late but , you need the belt tensioners for the front belt( its a must), ofna starter box works great, for the clutch you can get the newer clutch from the R12 team version which uses the TC4 clutch shoes and you can get thicker springs for it, if you cant get it , and you have the stock clutch with the single spring, you can very carefully cut about 3 to 5mms off the springs and it will make it a little bit stronger and it will stall the engagement of it. I still have my R12 Team car,im thinking of dusting it off and run some nitro
12-16-2010, 06:08 PM
#492
Tech Adept
hi there, I know R12 is not the latest, but admire all things schumacher and have recently picked up 2 chassis and parts and have started to run one. Quick questions: 1. Is the front belt tensioner vital to operation of front belt? Even when new? 2. Any tip for getting this chassis hooked up to a starter box properly? 3. Any tips on making the clutch more 'snappy' when it engages? Many thanks
Like Marcos said, Front Belt it's a most. Same thing with the starter box.
But question..
What kind of clutch system does your R12 has? The one Spring clutch or the one that use's the TC-3 clutch? Cuz their might be a new way to get the R12 clutch more snappy. But right now it's on development.
12-16-2010, 06:12 PM
#493
Tech Adept
it may be a little late but , you need the belt tensioners for the front belt( its a must), ofna starter box works great, for the clutch you can get the newer clutch from the R12 team version which uses the TC4 clutch shoes and you can get thicker springs for it, if you cant get it , and you have the stock clutch with the single spring, you can very carefully cut about 3 to 5mms off the springs and it will make it a little bit stronger and it will stall the engagement of it. I still have my R12 Team car,im thinking of dusting it off and run some nitro
07-18-2011, 07:32 AM
#494
Tech Adept
Schumacher Fusion R12 issues and fixes
This tread section is only intended for those who still have this car around or have it by second hands and are surrender or let go because of all the issues this car had. And Schumacher just put the car out of production. So support was long gone ago.
Well what I did was find some solutions on the internet and other solutions made it by me, and put the fixes all together in one place. This is going to be informational only, because most us would not even try this anymore, but for those who like to try this and have any doubts just let me know. Or if you have better solutions, please don’t hesitate to put them on this tread.
Thank You.
Well what I did was find some solutions on the internet and other solutions made it by me, and put the fixes all together in one place. This is going to be informational only, because most us would not even try this anymore, but for those who like to try this and have any doubts just let me know. Or if you have better solutions, please don’t hesitate to put them on this tread.
Thank You.
07-18-2011, 08:07 AM
#495
Tech Adept
Please be patience until I'll update all the information bit by bit.
First issue: REAR BELT Shredding, braking, torn apart etc.
Cause Theory: Main Belt tightness pulls back and twist the Rear Diff Pulley and puts the Rear Belt an uneven position that gets stressed until the layshaft alloy pulley do it's job to torn it apart.
Possible solution: Put the MAIN BELT tension as loosest possible without jumping. And make sure and check the Rear Diff that the Main Belt doesn't make more pressure than the Rear Belt. Both Belts most be equally even when you put the Rear Diff to the Diff Mounts. I'll explain it later with pictures.
Money Solution: Rear CNC Diff Pulley U2745 And Front CNC Diff Pulley U2746. Puts all the belts pressure out once and for all. Drive-train super loose.
This test was made of 45 minutes race yesterday, had some other problems though. But non of them matters, my main focus was the Belts. And they didn't give any sing of ware, nor shredding nothing at all. They work flawlessly.
First issue: REAR BELT Shredding, braking, torn apart etc.
Cause Theory: Main Belt tightness pulls back and twist the Rear Diff Pulley and puts the Rear Belt an uneven position that gets stressed until the layshaft alloy pulley do it's job to torn it apart.
Possible solution: Put the MAIN BELT tension as loosest possible without jumping. And make sure and check the Rear Diff that the Main Belt doesn't make more pressure than the Rear Belt. Both Belts most be equally even when you put the Rear Diff to the Diff Mounts. I'll explain it later with pictures.
Money Solution: Rear CNC Diff Pulley U2745 And Front CNC Diff Pulley U2746. Puts all the belts pressure out once and for all. Drive-train super loose.
This test was made of 45 minutes race yesterday, had some other problems though. But non of them matters, my main focus was the Belts. And they didn't give any sing of ware, nor shredding nothing at all. They work flawlessly.
Last edited by Z24; 07-29-2011 at 07:09 PM.