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Old 04-28-2008, 05:52 PM
  #1051  
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Originally Posted by Starter box
Hi,

Question about the stock brakes (steel rotors with steel calipers and blue pads):

After racing last weekend my front brake performs unevenly.

When the motor idles, the rotor can spin freely (with approx. 0.2mm clearance), but gets caught between the pads once in a while. Also, when actually applying the brake, it shows uneven brake performance; something like little grip for 1/4 turn of the rotor, tight grip for the next 1/4 turn and so on.

I had changed the rotor already, but same thing after just one race. Rotors, calipers and pads are pretty new. Can it be that the screws that hold the calipers are threaded into the plastic at an angle?

Any other ideas what could be the cause of this?

Thanks a lot,
Frank
Ditch the pads and run just the metal calipers on Thunder Tiger option discs (Part # PD1861). You can also use the o-ring trick I got from Ralph Walters of Innovative Design to get the brakes even better. Just use a thin o-ring (like the one from a carb insert) and put them in between the pads, wrap around the center diff mount and then attach to the back of the brake screws poking out the back (use screws long enough so they poke out about 2.0mm). You'll be able to adjust less play out of the brakes so they are much more responsive plus they won't drag. Finally, you can very carefully cut cross hairs on the TTR discs like a tic-tac-toe board (#) using a hacksaw blade. Just make sure the blade is flush and barely cut into the ceramic material on both sides of the discs. The brakes will never feel better
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:23 AM
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Tony is that idea with the o rings just to hold the back pad tight to the center mount ?? what about a small o ring between the pads
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews
Ditch the pads and run just the metal calipers on Thunder Tiger option discs (Part # PD1861). You can also use the o-ring trick I got from Ralph Walters of Innovative Design to get the brakes even better. Just use a thin o-ring (like the one from a carb insert) and put them in between the pads, wrap around the center diff mount and then attach to the back of the brake screws poking out the back (use screws long enough so they poke out about 2.0mm). You'll be able to adjust less play out of the brakes so they are much more responsive plus they won't drag. Finally, you can very carefully cut cross hairs on the TTR discs like a tic-tac-toe board (#) using a hacksaw blade. Just make sure the blade is flush and barely cut into the ceramic material on both sides of the discs. The brakes will never feel better
Hi Tony,

Thanks a lot for your tips! A friend from the race track told me that you want to dremel little cutouts for the dogbone pins?

Thanks,
Frank
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:57 PM
  #1054  
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i use these and they work really well


http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=1037
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by slow coach
Tony is that idea with the o rings just to hold the back pad tight to the center mount ?? what about a small o ring between the pads
Yes the o-ring wrapped around the diff mount holds the inside pad tight against the center mount. Using just a small o-ring between the pads doesn't work so well. You need to have play so the disc spins freely but the inside pad needs to be tight so the brakes don't drag as you work the throttle.
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TonysScrews
Yes the o-ring wrapped around the diff mount holds the inside pad tight against the center mount. Using just a small o-ring between the pads doesn't work so well. You need to have play so the disc spins freely but the inside pad needs to be tight so the brakes don't drag as you work the throttle.
I guess spreader springs don't work between the plates?
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
I guess spreader springs don't work between the plates?
Some guys use the small springs but I never really cared for them. With the o-ring, one caliper is tight while the other is loose. I like having the outside caliper free. I adjust the brake screw so I have enough play that the disc is free and the brakes don't drag. With the spring there is a load on both calipers so neither is free. The o-rings will last an entire season too .
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Old 04-29-2008, 09:57 PM
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Here is an old pic I have from Ralph of his center diff with the o-rings wrapped around the center diff carrier for anyone reading this that needs to see a picture.

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Old 04-30-2008, 12:35 AM
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I never seemed to have any issues with the stock brakes, both buggy or truggy. My truggy will pull an "end-o" at the end of the straight you get on the brakes fully. Never faded either. Then again, I don't use the Mugen linkages or the fuel tubes on the brake rods either.
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Old 05-01-2008, 04:03 AM
  #1060  
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Tony are the electrical terminals to stop the brakes coming back to far and binding on throttle
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Old 05-01-2008, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by slow coach
Tony are the electrical terminals to stop the brakes coming back to far and binding on throttle


GOOD eye....i didnt see that till u mentioned it and that appears what he's done.....Looks pretty trick tony...what's up with the ball style chassy braces. ?
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Old 05-01-2008, 08:31 AM
  #1062  
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What are you guys using for throttle return springs?
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by revo61
What are you guys using for throttle return springs?
a throttle return Band....u can get em at like walmart or w/e in the Hair n accessories isle....they come in a couple differnt sizes...and if u OVERSTRETCH them....they will have a little less pull.
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:18 PM
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Old 05-01-2008, 01:50 PM
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Do you have a picture of this?
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