Mugen MBX5R
02-14-2008, 05:18 PM
#811
+1 to arm issues. I broke the original style arms, replaced it with the new style and haven't had a problem since. 
02-15-2008, 04:08 AM
#812
any misaligement on the bell and flywheel is either too much shimming or not the proper collet for the flywheel....there's NO way a Mugen flywheel on a Ninja isnt gonna work....are u still running the stock motor mount ?...u sure i didnt flip it around or something ? ive ran the fioroni on Ninja's RB's STS's, picco's...the Whole fleet and never once had a Unfixale issue with the flywheel or bell....It just takes some creative shimming in the Right places.
I also have no problems shimming with the standard clutch on a WS7III. Pic bellow. I do have to shim different when i rig up The v-spec but it ends up the same.
Cheers
Tim
02-19-2008, 02:00 AM
#813
Does anyone know if the Jammin spur gear 48T will fit the Mugen diff?
I have the 44T and would like to go to a bigger spur and i have "direct" access to a Jammin gear now.
I have the 44T and would like to go to a bigger spur and i have "direct" access to a Jammin gear now.
02-19-2008, 12:35 PM
#814
Tech Adept
BCE 5R Chassis ????
Has anyone run the BCE Chassis on their 5R?
Was looking to hear some comparisons to the stocker.
I run the BCE chassis on my 5T, and it was money well spent.
Thanks in advance
Sean.
Was looking to hear some comparisons to the stocker.
I run the BCE chassis on my 5T, and it was money well spent.
Thanks in advance
Sean.
02-23-2008, 09:16 AM
#816
i have a set of kyosho alum clutch shoes and a set of mugen ones. i noticed the k shoes are a little smaller. can i run them on my 5r? if so, what will the differences in takeoff and general ones be?
02-23-2008, 01:21 PM
#819
thanks guys... i just got a new v-spec for it and i don't think i'll take the chance. i'll just use the mugen shoes....thanks again.
02-25-2008, 08:05 AM
#820
On the 5R front arm issue, I found the first run of front 5r arms were pretty brittle on the pillowball end when the weather was cold. They would last okay in warm weather though. Pillowballs would pull out and/or that part of the arm would break off.
In May/June Mugen got new arms in that fixed this problem. You can tell the arms apart because the newer ones are about 1mm thicker at the pillowball and there is extra material underneath and behind where the swaybar mounts on the arm. These newer arms are bombproof.
In May/June Mugen got new arms in that fixed this problem. You can tell the arms apart because the newer ones are about 1mm thicker at the pillowball and there is extra material underneath and behind where the swaybar mounts on the arm. These newer arms are bombproof.
Anyway, at the last race I tried a setup that the winner last time used. Holy crap the vehicle could turn on a dime, it was WAY too much steering for what I was used to and I was all over the place. Didn't drive well at all.
I know this has been brought up before, but I wanted to get a fresh confirmation without hunting for it too much:
1. For the MBX5R chassis versus the MBX5 chassis, what exactly is different?
2. For the MBX5R Shocks versus the MBX5 shocks, how much better are they?
I am trying to decide on either buying a full on MBX5R and put my conversion stuff on that for my brushless setup, or, just finishing up my conversion to an MBX5R by putting on the shock towers and shocks.
02-26-2008, 06:10 AM
#822
Can anyone give me some set up tips for my MBX5R on rough hard packed tracks with high grip? Im having trouble getting the buggy to run stable so it will stay on its wheels and jump cleanly. Should i be using softer or harder springs, thinner or thicker weight oils in shocks and diffs, kick up, ride height or whats the general rules of thumb to follow??
02-26-2008, 08:30 AM
#823
I need some build help!
Okay so I bought a used roller off of here that was pretty much spent. I bought ALL new parts except for the diffs. My problem is slop in the wheels. I see I need to shim the hubs a little but I am also see alot of slop in the axle. If I grab the wheel and move it around I can see the axle moving around inside the bearings. I bought the bearings from Avid and have never had any problems with them. It looks like maybe the slop is actually in the bearing itself though. Only ran it about 5 minutes after build. All the axles and the pillow ball carriers are new. Any advice would be appreciated.
02-26-2008, 09:05 AM
#824
the slop in the rear is actually the hub mounting onto the hingepin....if it has the aluminum hubs and the person did not use the set screw holes to lock the hub to the hingepin and allow the pin to rotate in the arm itself, then you will get some wear in the hub and the pin itself....you can try using the set screw holes in the hub to lock down on the hingepin...and loosen the hingepin in the arm to allow it to freely rotate when the suspension is compressed. It may wear out the arm after a bit, but they are cheaper then the hingepin+hub...
in the front, you basically are stuck with what you got...
in the front, you basically are stuck with what you got...
02-26-2008, 09:33 AM
#825
Thanks for the info man. I will check the back and see what I see. It's not that bad back there. I find hard to believe that it is normal to have that much slop in the front. Like I said it is all new. I'm gonna order new bearings but I wouldn't think the avids would be bad after 5 min of runtime.