Mugen MBX5R
#62
If you're running on a very high grip, very smooth surface, the stiffer chassis would probably be better. But this being off road ( ), a bit of flex is good.
#63
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
When you install the new MBX5R shock towers and MBX5R/T longer shocks, the car has much more droop. So you need to dremel the indents in the chassis for the lower front arms so they can fully extend (if you run full droop). Then on the lower arms, the area where the shocks mount is opened up so when the arms are at full droop, the shock ends are not hitting the arm. So on older arms you may need to dremel this area.
You have to run the new upper front arms. The new ackerman is moved back 1.5mm. You may or may not need the new piece depending on setup. But if you have a standard MBX5 kit, then it comes with a cheap stamped aluminum ackerman so get the new 5R piece. The servo-saver is not necessary. The new 4mm front steering links are beefier and the outer ends are curved for more clearance. I'd get them as the old 3mm rods/links popped off easier. If you have an older standard MBX5 kit then I would get newer 5R front uprights (E0109B) and the lower front arms (E0107B). The later generation arms have a different shape so they get more steering than the very first MBX5 arms that came in early standard MBX5 kits. The new 5R linkage kit finally straightens out the brake linkages so they are parallel and the new cone pieces for the brake cam arms clean up the play too. The rear lower arms on the 5R are now adjustable forward or back using a 1mm shim. So keep that in mind if you get the new 5R rear lower arms. The front lower plate is new. If you have the old standard MBX5 kit get the new 5R lower front plate and the front kickup block set (comes with 0 where the old std X5 kit came with -1, -2 and -3). New stone guards are not necessary. The std X5 kit came with rear plastic hubs. Nothing wrong with them. You don't need the alum pieces. Just remember the outside upper hole on the plastic hubs are the same as the upper inside holes on the alum hubs. Std X5 kit comes with std motor mounts. I'd highly recommend the one-piece mounts (Strobe RC mount is one piece and quick change. Very nice unit). Stad X5 kit comes with turnbuckle chassis braces. They work better on most tracks than the alum braces so I'd save your money there too. But the most expensive piece of the upgrade is the shocks and shock towers.
Best regards,
You have to run the new upper front arms. The new ackerman is moved back 1.5mm. You may or may not need the new piece depending on setup. But if you have a standard MBX5 kit, then it comes with a cheap stamped aluminum ackerman so get the new 5R piece. The servo-saver is not necessary. The new 4mm front steering links are beefier and the outer ends are curved for more clearance. I'd get them as the old 3mm rods/links popped off easier. If you have an older standard MBX5 kit then I would get newer 5R front uprights (E0109B) and the lower front arms (E0107B). The later generation arms have a different shape so they get more steering than the very first MBX5 arms that came in early standard MBX5 kits. The new 5R linkage kit finally straightens out the brake linkages so they are parallel and the new cone pieces for the brake cam arms clean up the play too. The rear lower arms on the 5R are now adjustable forward or back using a 1mm shim. So keep that in mind if you get the new 5R rear lower arms. The front lower plate is new. If you have the old standard MBX5 kit get the new 5R lower front plate and the front kickup block set (comes with 0 where the old std X5 kit came with -1, -2 and -3). New stone guards are not necessary. The std X5 kit came with rear plastic hubs. Nothing wrong with them. You don't need the alum pieces. Just remember the outside upper hole on the plastic hubs are the same as the upper inside holes on the alum hubs. Std X5 kit comes with std motor mounts. I'd highly recommend the one-piece mounts (Strobe RC mount is one piece and quick change. Very nice unit). Stad X5 kit comes with turnbuckle chassis braces. They work better on most tracks than the alum braces so I'd save your money there too. But the most expensive piece of the upgrade is the shocks and shock towers.
Best regards,
#65
Tony, can you repete that in Russian next time?
Glad to see Mugen did away with the c-clips on the shock bottoms and from what I remember on my x5, this thing has alot more shock travel compared to that one. And, no more e-clips!
Glad to see Mugen did away with the c-clips on the shock bottoms and from what I remember on my x5, this thing has alot more shock travel compared to that one. And, no more e-clips!
#66
hey guys just dumped my losi8 and picked up and 5r
what are you guys running for setups
what are you guys running for setups
#67
10 deg camber on all wheels, 25 deg toe in front wheels only and refried beans for shock fluid.
#70
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Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 06-17-2007 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Content
#74
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
http://jeff.rcpics.net/mugensetups/