TC racer

Since nobody has started a forum on the worlds greatest 4wd buggy I'm going to start one. My buggy should be here tomorrow along with the ti links that I got with it. I'm going to run a trinity P94 12x2 with a Novak GT7 and a Airtronics M8 with a hitech 325BB. The track I will be racing on is a little loose. Not sure if I want to run Ifmar pins or Ifmar studs. All I have been reading is how the losi keeps breaking and not tracking straight when under full breaks, and how it likes to spin out with full power. I for one don't think losi would have put the XXX4 into production if they where having problems with it. In my opinion losi makes the best race cars you can buy. They are easy to work on and easy to drive without being edgy and you can adjust one thing one them and not worry about something else going out of wak. Associated may have more world champs but what matters to me is how many nationals and how many regionals races have they won. I see more losi cars where I race than associated. That tells me that the losi is easer to work on. So to all those guys who think that the losi XXX4 is a pile of junk. Be ready to follow some tail lights.

Jared Kirkwood

The parts issues have been addressed and I've not seen any more weak points unless you crash coming strait down on a part. As for the car not tracking strait I've not heard anyone complain about that nor do I have a problem with it.

I've heard some people say the car has alot of steering. I guess it depends on the track conditions. I started with the Dunbar CRCRC setup posted on the teamlosi site. I think it would work about anywhere provided you have the correct tires.

TC racer

I didn't say that it spun out. I read that on ebay. Tires make the setup with out the right tires you wound get very far. I also know that the parts are fixed .

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

Hello. I've been running the car since it came out. Your going to love it.

I wouldn't say I've had a problem with the car spinning out because the back is loose. However, the nose of the car dives very hard into corners (off throttle). On high bit tracks it will dive enough to lift the inside rear tire. I have video of this happening. Until I had saw the video and watched it in slow motion, I was stuggling with it a little bit. That will cause the back to get loose.

To solve the problem I went to a stiffer front spring. That seemed to really calm the car down and now I can throw into a corner really hard, like for 180* corners. Or the car will carve really nice on the throttle for sweepers. I haven't had any push problems with the stiffer spring like I though I would.

I've tried all the setup's on the Losi site. They are all pretty good for the track conditions. My main setup is still the stock setup except for a stiffer front spring, and of course oil to match and a .055" rear sway bar.

I run a longer rear camber link quit a bit on larger tracks. Move the rear link the outter hole on the hub.

Just remember to drive like a 4wd. As long as your on the power it be hooked up!!!!!!!

take care
john

TC racer

Thanks my car should be here this weekend hopefully.

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

Hey TC Racer. I just remembered something else you'll want to do when your assembling your car. When you put the drive train together, watch how the belts runs across the pulley on the spur gear. On both my car and my sons the belts will ride up against the slipper nut. This cause the slipper to tighten as you run the car and you will go through rear diffs like crazy.
There's a couple things you can do to make it ride away from the diff nut.
The first is put a shim under the right rear outdrive bearing. the big shims that come with the Losi shim kit. This move the rear diff over just a hair. You'll have to experiment and see what thickness of shim you can put in there with it binding up.

The other thing. The instructions for the spur gear/slipper/pulley assembly. On the right side of that assembly there will be little shims you put under the belt tensioner. One thick shim and one thin. Take the thick shim and move it to the left hand side of the assembly. On the left side there is a aluminum spacer and bearing goes on it first. Put the shim on before the bearing. That will move the whole spur gear assembly to the right a little bit more.
Between those two shims, it moves the the belt far enough off the slipper nut that it won't effect it.

If you don't have your kit yet. Hang tight. All this will make sense when you see the instructions.

If not, email me. I've got some other tips if your interested.

take care
john

Tony Soprano

JohnB is right. I was wondering why my slipper was tightening and then I looked at it and spaced it over a little. I my case using the thin shim on the left side gave me enough room. One indicator that you may need to shim is a very slight fraying of the right side of the belt after it have been run for a while.

Belt adjustment is also something to watch. Most people at my track run it too tight becasue they hate hearing it skip under braking. Then they all bitch about how hot their motors get. You WANT to hear it skip under hard braking. At the end of the back straight on my track (hard clay) I am on the brakes hard and I get 2-3 "ticks" when I brake.

Durability is great unless you hit something. The new parts are better and it holds up pretty well but I would not go so far as to call it durable. Front arms break with the same regularity as XXX arms. Shock towers probably break more. Neither is anywhere near the XXXT for bullit-proof, no-brainer running but that might not be a fair comparison. Don't hit anything and will never notice this.

As for as spinning under braking and acceleration I have never noticed it with mine or any other XXX4's. I drove a friend's XX4 after I bought mine and I noticed slight torque steer with his.

I really love driving this car and it just makes me want to pull the trigger on mine from just writing about it. The control, acceleration, and braking are really amazing.

A quick story:

Last week I was driving mine in practice with a 10 double. this was more motor then I had ever had in the car and more motor then I had ever driven.
I was taking it easy and getting a feel for it when a guy passed me coming on to the straight. Being a guy and not really being very smart I just grabbed all the throttle I had and exploded past him. About 1/100th of a second later I realized the I had gone WAY past my braking point and was about to hit the hobby shop wall hard enough to destroy my wallet. I let off the gas, turned the wheel full lock, and then pulled the throttle full on again. The effect was that the car rotated 90 deg sideways at 35 mph and then when given power, hooked up and just went in the direction it was pointing, missing the wall by about 3 inches.

I am still amazed thinking about what that looked liked.

Have fun.

JohnB

iTrader: (1)

Cool story! I like that. Don't you wish you were brave enough to take a corner that fast all the time? I like a 10 in the car. I run a 11x3 most of the time, but after the last race want a little more. I'll run a 10x3 next race.

Your still breaking front A-arms? My son or I haven't broke an arm in a LONG time.(knock on wood). I even added a extra little hole to the front arms to mount a sway bar.
For shock towers I've been running home made ones out of graphite plate since I broke my original pair. I would call mine durable. Haven't take any really hard hits lately, but some hard enough that would have broke the original arms or shock towers. The only thing we've broke is a caster block and steering spindle. Both broke right were the pin or screw/pin mount.



take care
john