RangerWalker

Umm... Just glued the rear diff solid and went drifting.

-Fun! -for few seconds, the car did not handle well, so i checked what is the deal.

-rear belt had turned upside down! -and it was tight! -not too loose.

I fixed that... then the front belt turned upside down...

-what is going on here? -the belts were tight, but not too tight.

Now there is white gear/belt dust everywhere in the car.

On foams this never happened.


-what i need to do? -could the mamba be too much for drifting? -the wheels turn so fast that the belt cant coupe with?

AndiF

Suppose you are using a bath tube chassis?
If yes, I assume that there are two possible explanations for your problem:

1. The Mamba is certainly far too much for drifting. Usually 15T brushed (or equivalent brushless) is the max...

2. The excess power together with the "soft" bath tub (even with the carbon reinforced lightweight bath tub) would most probably lead to the drivetrain 'bending' the chassis slightly so that the belts get enough play to turn upside down...exspecially when drifting and the motor is revving at very high rpms.

Rgds,
Andy

RangerWalker

I have been thinking of doing the graphite conversion.

I have the IFS-R

What parts are correct if i would get it?

-3racing ver.2 chassis http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=3206

-can i use ta05(not ifs-r) -pulleys/belts etc? -what do i need? -the diff outputs are different then stock 05, right?

-alloy bulkheads?
http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=3140 -looks cool and since they are open, there will not be any sand/stone traps.

Could some1 help with the parts list?

redbones

I had the ver.2 chassis from 3racing, and all the parts will fit directly(IFS-R). A word of note for the IFS version. The aluminum post base for the rocker arm is too weak, and it will bend you hit your front tires at a decent speed. one way to avoid this, is to rig a turnbuckle to connect the two tops of the posts. Still not sure if even this will be enough... 3racing should have designed one that uses the stock chassis brace.

AndiF

Perfect! Make adjustments as mentioned by redbones, see below my comments...

Yes, you can but you can also use the IFS-R pulleys and belts. Just be sure to use always the full set (diff pulleys and middle pulleys) of either the TA05 or the IFS-R (size of belts is adjusted to the respective pulley size!)

I recommend to use alloy bulkheads to provide additional stiffness to the chassis. I would not suggest to use the 3Racing bulkheads, they are weak and not worth the money. Use the original Tamiya-Hop Ups 53990 (rear bulkhead) and 54019 (front bulkhead for IFS).

I can fully agree with rebones. I did exactly what he is proposing and it works great, even with 4.5T and 2s LiPo. See picture. Without it, it won't last one single run...



Rgds,
Andy

RangerWalker

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXRXW3&P=7

-that is a bit expensive....-are the 3racing ones really 4 times worse?

And the chassis http://www.stellamodels.net/catalog/...oducts_id=3206 -what does the wo mean? -not white graphite i hope. -is it with option parts?

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

The IFS-R is just as if not more capable than a carbon fiber chassis version. If you want to make the car stiff get the reinforced tub chassis and aluminum bulkheads. Anything else is just blowing your money.

And I would buy them from RC CHAMP....much cheaper....roughly $45...make sure you get the IFS specific front aluminum bulkhead though #54019

RangerWalker

Thanks, the rc champ web pages are not very easy to understand

-I do ,however plan on getting the carbon chassis -for looks too! -the car will be on my shelf many months per year, so i need it to look pretty

-are the 3racing parts really crap? -i did use them on my tt01 at one time, no complaints here.

AndiF

I have the 3Racing parts and I don't know it they are 4 times worse but they are definitely not as good as the Tamiyas. Too soft and too heavy.
The link you have posted leads to the normal TA05 conversion. You need the TA05-IFS conversion. The WO stand most probably for 'woven carbon fibre'. The white or silver graphite is the SSG version...which as far as I know is not available for the IFS.


I agree that the reinforced bath tub is excellent. Only thing: it's far too heavy. If you're runnign stock or standard categories, you exceed the minimum weigt by almost 200 grams. And the 3Racing conversion with the modification mentioned above works perfect and is very light...

RangerWalker

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ta0...o-p-25728.html -this is the ifs version, but it looks the same as the standard version, maybe the pic is wrong?

-I dont race this thing, so extra weight is not a consern. -if i´ll brake the 3racing part, i can get few more for the cost of one tamiya original.

-and what do you mean that it´s too soft? -will it bend easily or what?

-maybe i´ll wait a bit... http://www.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=3554

RangerWalker

I tore the whole thing apart.

Rear diff plates have eaten the outputs,are there any more durable ones? -plates and outputs. -maybe metal ones????

AndiF

Yes, pic is wrong


...your decision...they tend to bend rather easily compared to the Tamiyas

Yes, that's the new version featuring exactly the strut between the damper bolts as shown in the pics above. When the conversion kit ver. 2 came out, I've been one of the first to race it and I reported the bended damper brace directly to 3racing. The took this input and sent me a replacement brace and said they will change the design accordingly to get rid of this problem...this now will be the result of that. You can easily see the damper strut (they grey thing above the damper bolts), something the ver. 2 kit did not have. Most probably nothing else has changed and I assume they will releasea also a modification kit for the ver. 2 chassis kit.


Use the alloy diff joint 53919: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53919

RangerWalker

Cool!

-will the stock plates fit the alloy parts? -they are round, so do i need to glue thease also / do i need anything else?

-or is this http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-ta0...th=595_744_709 -correct part? -it says ta04?

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

is the reinforced chassis still a joke in terms of weight. all i've ever seen is 4g over the stocker. yeh stiffness is 1 thing, but i guess we man dont spend if its just stiffer (well other things perhaps lol), but if it says lightweight we shell out.

R

redbones

Yeah the tub great and all, but heavy. The CF conversion, especially with the 3racing v.2 is light since the lower deck is 2mm plate too. I believe I lost about 60g of weight over the plactic tub with it. It also brings the battery closer to the center since it uses the same floating center shaft as the TA05MS.