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Old 05-16-2007, 09:01 AM
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what exactly do you have to do to maintain nitro rcs? also is the fuel expensive, do you just make it or buy it?
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:14 AM
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You pretty much buy the fuel at hobby shops at an average price of $25.00 a gallon (U.S.). All the maintaince in r/c is pretty much keeping things clean, lubricated, replacing worn or broken parts, and keeping adjustments where they are supposed to be.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:16 AM
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Fuel around here (California) runs about $20 a gallon for 20% nitro. To maintain them clean them after every day, and if you can, after every race during the day. Clean bearings, outside of engine, all metal parts. Then check that things are secure and not binding where they pivot. Its really just as much maintenance as electric IMO, just there are few different duties to perform.
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:28 AM
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I would have to dissagree, I feel nitro has more maintenance than electric. Namely from the fact that the exhaust especially in offroad likes to form a nice layer of gunk on the vehicle.

Nitro can be very satisfying and you get used to the maintenance.

If you really want ultimate low maintainence. Get a brushless lipo setup. You don't really have to do all the battery voodoo, get long runtimes, and the brushless motors need little maintenance compared to a traditional brushed setup.
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Old 05-16-2007, 10:49 AM
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IMO nitro is not any more work than electric...i use 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle to clean away the nitro exhaust build up, and a can of air to blow out the bearings and thats about it for my pit routine, besides making sure all screws are tight....
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Old 05-16-2007, 07:59 PM
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I think that nitro's do have a bit more maintenance envolved. Especially if you take the time to clean the buggy...after every run, clean the engine....Remove glow plug.....lube cylinder... Remove air filter....clean and/or replace...Clean nitro gunk off side of vehicle...not to mention the mess that is made when the fuel cap leaks or you spill fuel when filling.
I'm not saying that's alot of work. But that is just added effort. Personally I dont mind the extra work. Not enough to not own a nitro r/c vehicle..

Brushless on the other hand require NOTHING....
Enough said!
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Cain
I would have to dissagree, I feel nitro has more maintenance than electric. Namely from the fact that the exhaust especially in offroad likes to form a nice layer of gunk on the vehicle.

Nitro can be very satisfying and you get used to the maintenance.

If you really want ultimate low maintainence. Get a brushless lipo setup. You don't really have to do all the battery voodoo, get long runtimes, and the brushless motors need little maintenance compared to a traditional brushed setup.
I fell your pain of cleaning off road cars, but if you really want a clean up challange try an onroad car. Road grime + exhaust=days of cleaning
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Old 05-17-2007, 08:55 AM
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oh well thats not too bad. im into herps so the nitros dont seem much harder than those. do they have to be cleaned if not in use? or only after a run? also do the different parts require different cleaning techniques? can i rely on a manual to tell me what to do? and should i get a kit, so i can learn what goes where?
lol sorry for all the Qs!!!!
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Old 05-17-2007, 10:54 AM
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if you really want to learn how the car works then get a kit, but if your worried about putting a kit together then get a rtr...

pro level kits are nice cause they come with better parts, but being you dont get any radio item or a engine they can get spendy by the time you get it built...

rtr's are also nice in there own right, being pretty much everything you need to get started in all included (besides fuel and batteries) a rtr will get you out and running the same day you buy one....of course the down fall it that most all rtr's come with less than race ready parts (that can be upgraded as you want) you may have a few more breaks...IMO the best rtr on the market (1/8 buggy) is the losi eight buggy comes with some really nice stuff and the rolling chassis is very close to the same as the pro model...another nice rtr is the AE RC10 GT2 not a bad kit for the price....hope this helps a bit...
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:18 PM
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IMO...if this is your first Nitro RC or first RC in general I would buy a RTR (Ready to Run) Model. The new Team Associated RC10GT2 RTR run out here $289.99, all you would need is a gallon of gas, glow plug lighter, batteries and your ready.

Now the Team kits do offer better parts then the RTR , but the down side to that being new at the hobby is your going to crash and crash alot. The Team kit have alot of carbon fiber parts, compare to the RTR that have more plastic moded parts. I found the plastic do not break as easy. That is just my $0.02 worth.

But remeber follow the break in instructions for the engine. If not the engine will not last as long...
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Old 05-17-2007, 12:35 PM
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That's the dumbest piece of advise ever. If you are looking in to getting started in the hobby then get a kit and learn how these cars go together. They are not hard to build. As long as you are willing to pay attention to detail and not helplessly lazy then you should have no problem at all building a kit. Just make sure you purchase the kit at your lhs so that if you get stuck you can go there for help. The biggest key to building a good kit is paying attention to detail and making sure you do things the right way.
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Old 05-17-2007, 01:15 PM
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i agree with party wagon, but just remember there are options to be had for all skill levels...
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Old 05-20-2007, 02:34 AM
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id like a kit, so if it breaks or somethin i know how to fix it(at least a bit) what kit is the best for a beginner? and will the manual tell me everythin i need to know, like how to maintain the engine and stuff?
also i thought carbon fibre was supposed to be stronger than plastic?
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Old 05-20-2007, 03:19 AM
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Maintain...like it or not. I find it enjoyable as part of my hobby but most of time, it just needs a little maintenance, just a matter of few minutes.
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Old 05-20-2007, 03:32 AM
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carbon fibre IS stronger, but doesn't bend when you crash like plastic, so there is more of a chance a part will break, instead of the plastic soaking up the shock.
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