2LikesTamiya TA05MS
09-07-2007, 03:24 AM
#571
Tech Adept
Anyone know if #53919 TA05 aludiff joint set fit 05MS? Just ask if i`ll make spare diff
09-07-2007, 05:07 PM
#573
Thank you Hebiki for posting your setup. I've been overlooking the fact that the diff heights can be adjusted. It might be just the thing I need to get my TA05MS spool setup right.
Also, thank you rampal for your report. It was very interesting! Keep us updated! I had a similar experience with running a hot motor with the ESC mounted in front of the motor.
I originally set up my TA05MS with a silver can and an old Tekin G12cIII because the local races are held on a tiny course and only silver cans run with stick packs are allowed. I put the ESC in front of the motor and the car ran well with that amount of power. In that configuration, I put the car on four scales and found the weight to be almost evenly distributed amongst the four wheels.
But when I found out that I can't make the local races because of time conflicts, I hastily threw a 10 turn Orion V2 motor in the car to have some friendly racing on our own larger course and to better learn the characteristics of the car. With all that added power combined with the unprepared surface, the lack of rear traction was apparent when powering out of corners.
Anyway, fast forward to now, and I am running my Novak GTB in my TA05MS mounted in the rear of the motor. I don't remember exactly how much weight difference there is between the front and the rear now, but it is significant in comparison to mounting the ESC in front of the motor. I've used the 13.5SS, 10.5SS, and a 5.5R and found the rear wheel traction to be much better. In fact, I don't have a problem at all with the lack of rear wheel traction.
Next time I'll get four ends of the car on scales in the pic
.
Also, thank you rampal for your report. It was very interesting! Keep us updated! I had a similar experience with running a hot motor with the ESC mounted in front of the motor.
I originally set up my TA05MS with a silver can and an old Tekin G12cIII because the local races are held on a tiny course and only silver cans run with stick packs are allowed. I put the ESC in front of the motor and the car ran well with that amount of power. In that configuration, I put the car on four scales and found the weight to be almost evenly distributed amongst the four wheels.
But when I found out that I can't make the local races because of time conflicts, I hastily threw a 10 turn Orion V2 motor in the car to have some friendly racing on our own larger course and to better learn the characteristics of the car. With all that added power combined with the unprepared surface, the lack of rear traction was apparent when powering out of corners.
Anyway, fast forward to now, and I am running my Novak GTB in my TA05MS mounted in the rear of the motor. I don't remember exactly how much weight difference there is between the front and the rear now, but it is significant in comparison to mounting the ESC in front of the motor. I've used the 13.5SS, 10.5SS, and a 5.5R and found the rear wheel traction to be much better. In fact, I don't have a problem at all with the lack of rear wheel traction.
Next time I'll get four ends of the car on scales in the pic
.
keep us updated. im hopefully headed out to race on sunday. im gonna make a few more changes to the set up i posted. and will post here
09-07-2007, 05:18 PM
#574
09-07-2007, 11:54 PM
#575
Tech Adept
09-07-2007, 11:55 PM
#576
Tech Adept
09-08-2007, 04:47 AM
#577
What will be the effect if i will move the steering linkage of the front upright into the lower hole? right now it's in the upper position(stock setting).
HI_808, what do you think is best or much better in placing the electronics? the ESC on the back of the motor or ESC infront of the motor?
HI_808, what do you think is best or much better in placing the electronics? the ESC on the back of the motor or ESC infront of the motor?
Good luck to all you guys who are going to race your TA05MS this weekend!
09-08-2007, 05:11 AM
#578
nikkie, if you are racing in a silver can race, then ESC in front of the motor might be advantageous to you since the silver can can't produce enough power to kick the rear around. Otherwise, at least on asphalt, you might need the extra rear traction so mounting the ESC in the rear might be better.
Good luck to all you guys who are going to race your TA05MS this weekend!
Good luck to all you guys who are going to race your TA05MS this weekend!
09-08-2007, 08:36 PM
#579
Increasing droop on one end of the car increases weight transfer to the opposite end.
09-09-2007, 04:13 AM
#580
guys: i lost the race today.
i broke my front upright... too bad for me i don't have spare in my box.
09-09-2007, 04:31 AM
#581
Front Upright
That's weird... I broke my left front upright too... Due to glitch, it turned left then POW! Hahaha... Bought at lils for 200 pesos only... Comes in pair, left and right...
09-09-2007, 05:18 AM
#582
Weight transfer is very important, that is what they say... Also me... Hehehe... But I still don't know how to adjust the droop to its right setup...
That's weird... I broke my left front upright too... Due to glitch, it turned left then POW! Hahaha... Bought at lils for 200 pesos only... Comes in pair, left and right...
That's weird... I broke my left front upright too... Due to glitch, it turned left then POW! Hahaha... Bought at lils for 200 pesos only... Comes in pair, left and right...
heheheit's good 200 pesos only, maybe i will try to order next week.
just want to ask why is that when i fully throttled my radio my car is going right..? why is that? i already put it in a setup station to see the cambers. my camber settings are -2 all around. do you think guys it has something to do with weight balancing. because im using 1600mah tamiya stick pack. i think its maybe too light for the other side of the chassis that's why its going right under hard acceleration. and also i think my droop is very bad.
09-09-2007, 05:49 AM
#583
me too, i don't know the drooping method yet, anti dive, kick up, caster hahaha?? hehehe
it's good 200 pesos only, maybe i will try to order next week.
just want to ask why is that when i fully throttled my radio my car is going right..? why is that? i already put it in a setup station to see the cambers. my camber settings are -2 all around. do you think guys it has something to do with weight balancing. because im using 1600mah tamiya stick pack. i think its maybe too light for the other side of the chassis that's why its going right under hard acceleration. and also i think my droop is very bad.
heheheit's good 200 pesos only, maybe i will try to order next week.
just want to ask why is that when i fully throttled my radio my car is going right..? why is that? i already put it in a setup station to see the cambers. my camber settings are -2 all around. do you think guys it has something to do with weight balancing. because im using 1600mah tamiya stick pack. i think its maybe too light for the other side of the chassis that's why its going right under hard acceleration. and also i think my droop is very bad.
Last edited by RMF-888; 09-09-2007 at 06:12 AM.
09-09-2007, 05:51 AM
#584
The uprights on the lightweight suspension are prone to breakage if you hit them hard. The two pieces that the replacement tree comes with are identical and can be used on the left or the right.
I'd imagine that a 1600mah would be very light, so yes, it would disturb the balance of the car. But it's the heavier end that the car would roll more towards, which would be the left side that doesn't have the battery.
Weight transfer is important because as you go through a corner, the car naturally rolls due to the forces of acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Proper weight transfer is vital to all kinds of racing, be it rc or in full sized cars.
For example, when braking, the car rolls forward and hence shifts weight in that direction. Too much roll forward will make the car spin out; too little and it will understeer. On acceleration, too much roll rearwards or too little can both make the car spin. Too much rearwards roll usually results in the car kicking out a little later than if there is too little roll under acceleration. When tuning, you need to use the options available to best balance the car according to its natural inclinations.
Here are a couple of sites that may help:
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=tcsetup
I'd imagine that a 1600mah would be very light, so yes, it would disturb the balance of the car. But it's the heavier end that the car would roll more towards, which would be the left side that doesn't have the battery.
Weight transfer is important because as you go through a corner, the car naturally rolls due to the forces of acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Proper weight transfer is vital to all kinds of racing, be it rc or in full sized cars.
For example, when braking, the car rolls forward and hence shifts weight in that direction. Too much roll forward will make the car spin out; too little and it will understeer. On acceleration, too much roll rearwards or too little can both make the car spin. Too much rearwards roll usually results in the car kicking out a little later than if there is too little roll under acceleration. When tuning, you need to use the options available to best balance the car according to its natural inclinations.
Here are a couple of sites that may help:
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=tcsetup
09-09-2007, 05:50 PM
#585
The uprights on the lightweight suspension are prone to breakage if you hit them hard. The two pieces that the replacement tree comes with are identical and can be used on the left or the right.
I'd imagine that a 1600mah would be very light, so yes, it would disturb the balance of the car. But it's the heavier end that the car would roll more towards, which would be the left side that doesn't have the battery.
Weight transfer is important because as you go through a corner, the car naturally rolls due to the forces of acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Proper weight transfer is vital to all kinds of racing, be it rc or in full sized cars.
For example, when braking, the car rolls forward and hence shifts weight in that direction. Too much roll forward will make the car spin out; too little and it will understeer. On acceleration, too much roll rearwards or too little can both make the car spin. Too much rearwards roll usually results in the car kicking out a little later than if there is too little roll under acceleration. When tuning, you need to use the options available to best balance the car according to its natural inclinations.
Here are a couple of sites that may help:
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=tcsetup
I'd imagine that a 1600mah would be very light, so yes, it would disturb the balance of the car. But it's the heavier end that the car would roll more towards, which would be the left side that doesn't have the battery.
Weight transfer is important because as you go through a corner, the car naturally rolls due to the forces of acceleration, deceleration, and turning. Proper weight transfer is vital to all kinds of racing, be it rc or in full sized cars.
For example, when braking, the car rolls forward and hence shifts weight in that direction. Too much roll forward will make the car spin out; too little and it will understeer. On acceleration, too much roll rearwards or too little can both make the car spin. Too much rearwards roll usually results in the car kicking out a little later than if there is too little roll under acceleration. When tuning, you need to use the options available to best balance the car according to its natural inclinations.
Here are a couple of sites that may help:
http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/
http://richardchang.com/hobby.php?topic=tcsetup
i also noticed that the adjuster has some slops. do you think it has something to do with the adjusters?
and i think my hinge pins are bent.. i don't know maybe some crashing bent my pins.. do you think its the cause?