Novak 13.5 Question?
04-13-2007, 02:41 PM
#2
The Pro versions of the 13.5 that come with sintered rotors installed come from the factory with ribbed endbells front and back and also an orange timing ring for easy identification.
The older version with smooth endbells and black timing ring came with the bonded rotor.
You can open up the front side of the motor and look at the rotor as well.
The bonded rotor will be a matte black finish.
The sintered rotor has a nickel-plated almost chrome looking finish.
The older version with smooth endbells and black timing ring came with the bonded rotor.
You can open up the front side of the motor and look at the rotor as well.
The bonded rotor will be a matte black finish.
The sintered rotor has a nickel-plated almost chrome looking finish.
04-13-2007, 04:14 PM
#3
Here is a picture of the new 13.5 Pro version with the sintered rotor:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=153984
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=153984
04-13-2007, 04:34 PM
#4
Tech Regular
is there an outright performance advantage or just a different power delivery?
04-13-2007, 05:46 PM
#5
I have bought one of the older ones and wondered if it had been upgraded by its previous owner. But after taking the cap off the end I see that it has the black rotor. Is the older motor worth upgrading? Are there any advantages to doing this?
Thanks, Chris
Thanks, Chris
04-13-2007, 05:57 PM
#6
Originally Posted by chris72983
I have bought one of the older ones and wondered if it had been upgraded by its previous owner. But after taking the cap off the end I see that it has the black rotor. Is the older motor worth upgrading? Are there any advantages to doing this?
Thanks, Chris
Thanks, Chris
At 30.00 its worth it.
The advantage will be on the track. The sintered rotor is wickid fast.
Gear it up.
Those rotors just about last forever.
04-14-2007, 05:05 PM
#8
Originally Posted by chris72983
Does anyone one know which part number rotor is used to upgrade older 13.5 motors?
04-14-2007, 05:10 PM
#9
#5923 Is the end bell and the rotor, do you know if you have the small bearing or the large bearing in your current motor?
#5908 is the rotor alone. If your motor has the large up graded end bell this is all you need.
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=NOV5908/135.0
#5908 is the rotor alone. If your motor has the large up graded end bell this is all you need.
http://www.shopatron.com/product/pro...=NOV5908/135.0
04-14-2007, 05:16 PM
#10
Has anyone found reason to replace the smaller bearing way inside the can? Seems like it should be pretty clean that far inboard. Can I clean and lube it by removing the three screws that hold down the plastic cap on that end?
04-14-2007, 05:34 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Has anyone found reason to replace the smaller bearing way inside the can? Seems like it should be pretty clean that far inboard. Can I clean and lube it by removing the three screws that hold down the plastic cap on that end?
You can pull it and clean the grease out and put a thinner bearing oil in it.
I did that to almost all of my brushless motors. Both bearings.
And according to Novak just blow the can out with air and put it back together.
Its recommended by Novak do not spray the can with motor spray.
04-14-2007, 05:35 PM
#12
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
You can pull it and clean the grease out and put a thinner bearing oil in it.
I did that to almost all of my brushless motors. Both bearings.
And according to Novak just blow the can out with air and put it back together.
Its recommended by Novak do not spray the can with motor spray.
I did that to almost all of my brushless motors. Both bearings.
And according to Novak just blow the can out with air and put it back together.
Its recommended by Novak do not spray the can with motor spray.
04-14-2007, 05:41 PM
#13
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Thanks!
I bought an up graded end bell when they first came out and it came with a small bearing as well as the end bell with the large one, and I just put it in the pit box. I would guess a 13.5 will never wear it out if you leave the heavy grease in it?
Modified motors may wear it out though?
04-14-2007, 05:48 PM
#14
13.5
OUR LOCAL TRACK STARTED RUNNING THESE LATE LAST YEAR WITH AVG. TIMES ( 4.6, 4.7 ) RUNNING A LITTLE ABOVE A 21 TURN WITH 3800 mAh BATTERIES ON A 250 FT. RUN LINE CONCRETE OVAL. AND THAT WAS BEFORE THE SINTERED ROTOR AND 4200 WERE CONSIDERED "LEGAL" AT OUR TRACK.
LAST WEEKEND A FELLOW RACER WAS TURNING 4.4 LAPS WITH A 13.5 THAT HAD THE SINTERED UPGRADE AND 4200 mAh BATTERIES. NONE OF US THOUGHT THE ROTOR WOULD MAKE THAT MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE BUT I ADMIT I WAS VERY IMPRESSED. AMAZING WHAT A DIFFERENCE A LITTLE CHROME LOOKING ROTOR CAN MAKE .
I ADDED THE SINTERED TO MY OLD CAN 13.5 AND ALSO THREW IN THE CERAMIC BEARINGS THAT THEY OFFER FOR THE MOTOR. I CAN TELL A DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY IT TURNS IN FREE SPIN BUT HAVEN'T HAD A CHANCE TO TEST IT OUT ON THE TRACK. I WOULD SAY THE DIFFERENCE AS FAR AS THE BEARINGS WILL BE VERY MINIMAL BUT I HAD THE EXTRA $10 TO BLOW
MARCEL
LAST WEEKEND A FELLOW RACER WAS TURNING 4.4 LAPS WITH A 13.5 THAT HAD THE SINTERED UPGRADE AND 4200 mAh BATTERIES. NONE OF US THOUGHT THE ROTOR WOULD MAKE THAT MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE BUT I ADMIT I WAS VERY IMPRESSED. AMAZING WHAT A DIFFERENCE A LITTLE CHROME LOOKING ROTOR CAN MAKE
.I ADDED THE SINTERED TO MY OLD CAN 13.5 AND ALSO THREW IN THE CERAMIC BEARINGS THAT THEY OFFER FOR THE MOTOR. I CAN TELL A DIFFERENCE IN THE WAY IT TURNS IN FREE SPIN BUT HAVEN'T HAD A CHANCE TO TEST IT OUT ON THE TRACK. I WOULD SAY THE DIFFERENCE AS FAR AS THE BEARINGS WILL BE VERY MINIMAL BUT I HAD THE EXTRA $10 TO BLOW
MARCEL
04-14-2007, 05:49 PM
#15
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Your welcome.
I bought an up graded end bell when they first came out and it came with a small bearing as well as the end bell with the large one, and I just put it in the pit box. I would guess a 13.5 will never wear it out if you leave the heavy grease in it?
Modified motors may wear it out though?
I bought an up graded end bell when they first came out and it came with a small bearing as well as the end bell with the large one, and I just put it in the pit box. I would guess a 13.5 will never wear it out if you leave the heavy grease in it?
Modified motors may wear it out though?
04-14-2007, 05:56 PM
#16
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
Your welcome.
I bought an up graded end bell when they first came out and it came with a small bearing as well as the end bell with the large one, and I just put it in the pit box. I would guess a 13.5 will never wear it out if you leave the heavy grease in it?
Modified motors may wear it out though?
I bought an up graded end bell when they first came out and it came with a small bearing as well as the end bell with the large one, and I just put it in the pit box. I would guess a 13.5 will never wear it out if you leave the heavy grease in it?
Modified motors may wear it out though?
I SAY THAT TO SAY THIS, OTHER THAN TAKING IT APART TO BLOW IT OUT, I HAVE NEVER OILED OR CLEANED THEM AND THE BEARINGS HAVE HELD UP FINE. AND WITH IT BEING TORTURED LIKE THAT SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE GIVE BY NOW. BUT I KEPT MY STOCK BEARINGS FROM THE 13.5 AND 4300 JUST IN CASE.
I LOVE BRUSHLESS , IT'S ALL I HAVE IN MY CARS NOW !!
04-14-2007, 06:06 PM
#17
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
I PUT A 3.5 R MOTOR IN A BOLINK LEGEND BACK WHEN IT WAS FIRST INTRODUCED, JUST TO DO SOMETHING FREAKY. WE RUN LEGENDS IN A 8 SECOND BREAKOUT CLASS AT OUR LOCAL TRACK SO I HAVE NO PROBLEM MAKING THE TIME, LOL LOL. PLUS I RUN 6 CELL GP'S. BY WHAT NOVAK STATES ABOUT THE 3.5, IT WILL TURN 10,500 RPM'S FOR EVERY VOLT. SO I HAVE AT HAND 75,600 RPM'S GIVE OR TAKE.AND I HAVE BENT A TON OF AXLES SHOWING OUT WITH IT AT OUR TRACK AND A BENEFIT RACE TRYING TO ACHEIVE MAXIMUM SPEED DOWN THE STRAIGHTS.
I SAY THAT TO SAY THIS, OTHER THAN TAKING IT APART TO BLOW IT OUT, I HAVE NEVER OILED OR CLEANED THEM AND THE BEARINGS HAVE HELD UP FINE. AND WITH IT BEING TORTURED LIKE THAT SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE GIVE BY NOW. BUT I KEPT MY STOCK BEARINGS FROM THE 13.5 AND 4300 JUST IN CASE.
I LOVE BRUSHLESS , IT'S ALL I HAVE IN MY CARS NOW !!
I SAY THAT TO SAY THIS, OTHER THAN TAKING IT APART TO BLOW IT OUT, I HAVE NEVER OILED OR CLEANED THEM AND THE BEARINGS HAVE HELD UP FINE. AND WITH IT BEING TORTURED LIKE THAT SOMETHING SHOULD HAVE GIVE BY NOW. BUT I KEPT MY STOCK BEARINGS FROM THE 13.5 AND 4300 JUST IN CASE.
I LOVE BRUSHLESS , IT'S ALL I HAVE IN MY CARS NOW !!
Never had to, running on carpet is all I run on. When I cleaned the bearings it was a 4300 and it really didn't make a big enough difference to constitute doing it again.
And I'm 100% brushless Lipo to, Heres a shot of my collection. I to can run any class of speed. And I live for the straight away.
Its a home made case from a motor case and a battery case.
I just need a 3.5 and a 5800 and I'm done with my collection and I will be 100% vested. Its all tires and bodies from there.
Last edited by UN4RACING; 08-21-2008 at 07:03 AM.
04-14-2007, 06:32 PM
#18
UN, THAT'S QUITE THE COLLECTION.
I STARTED WITH THE 4300 WHEN I BOUGHT MY FIRST GTB. FROM THERE I JUST STARTED BUYING FASTER AND FASTER. 5800, 7.5 6.5 5.5 4.5 AND NOW TO THE 3.5.
UNLIKE YOU THOUGH I SOLD THE MOTOR I HAD TO BUY THE NEXT ONE UP. I CURRENTLY HAVE A 4300 WITH THE UPGRADED , NOT SINTERED THOUGH, ROTOR, A FULL RACE 13.5 AND THE MEAN 3.5 R.
THE ONLY ONE I EVERY GET TO RACE FULL STRENGTH IS THE 13.5 . THE OTHER 2 ARE IN BREAKOUT CARS.
BUT THE POWER IS THERE IF I NEED IT. AND I CAN RUN 4300 WITH A SWITCH OF CAP TIRES AND SOME SPRING ADJUSTMENTS.
I LOVE IT. I KNOW BRUSHED MOTOR GUYS LOVE TO TINKER WITH MOTORS BUT BRUSHLESS IS JUST WONDERFUL NOT TO CONVERT TO. IT'S A SIGN OF THE TIMES.
LIKE YOU SAID, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SETUP, TIRES, AND BATTERIES NOW !!
I STARTED WITH THE 4300 WHEN I BOUGHT MY FIRST GTB. FROM THERE I JUST STARTED BUYING FASTER AND FASTER. 5800, 7.5 6.5 5.5 4.5 AND NOW TO THE 3.5.
UNLIKE YOU THOUGH I SOLD THE MOTOR I HAD TO BUY THE NEXT ONE UP. I CURRENTLY HAVE A 4300 WITH THE UPGRADED , NOT SINTERED THOUGH, ROTOR, A FULL RACE 13.5 AND THE MEAN 3.5 R.
THE ONLY ONE I EVERY GET TO RACE FULL STRENGTH IS THE 13.5 . THE OTHER 2 ARE IN BREAKOUT CARS.
BUT THE POWER IS THERE IF I NEED IT. AND I CAN RUN 4300 WITH A SWITCH OF CAP TIRES AND SOME SPRING ADJUSTMENTS.
I LOVE IT. I KNOW BRUSHED MOTOR GUYS LOVE TO TINKER WITH MOTORS BUT BRUSHLESS IS JUST WONDERFUL NOT TO CONVERT TO. IT'S A SIGN OF THE TIMES.
LIKE YOU SAID, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SETUP, TIRES, AND BATTERIES NOW !!
04-14-2007, 06:42 PM
#19
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
UN, THAT'S QUITE THE COLLECTION.
I STARTED WITH THE 4300 WHEN I BOUGHT MY FIRST GTB. FROM THERE I JUST STARTED BUYING FASTER AND FASTER. 5800, 7.5 6.5 5.5 4.5 AND NOW TO THE 3.5.
UNLIKE YOU THOUGH I SOLD THE MOTOR I HAD TO BUY THE NEXT ONE UP. I CURRENTLY HAVE A 4300 WITH THE UPGRADED , NOT SINTERED THOUGH, ROTOR, A FULL RACE 13.5 AND THE MEAN 3.5 R.
THE ONLY ONE I EVERY GET TO RACE FULL STRENGTH IS THE 13.5 . THE OTHER 2 ARE IN BREAKOUT CARS.
BUT THE POWER IS THERE IF I NEED IT. AND I CAN RUN 4300 WITH A SWITCH OF CAP TIRES AND SOME SPRING ADJUSTMENTS.
I LOVE IT. I KNOW BRUSHED MOTOR GUYS LOVE TO TINKER WITH MOTORS BUT BRUSHLESS IS JUST WONDERFUL NOT TO CONVERT TO. IT'S A SIGN OF THE TIMES.
LIKE YOU SAID, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SETUP, TIRES, AND BATTERIES NOW !!
I STARTED WITH THE 4300 WHEN I BOUGHT MY FIRST GTB. FROM THERE I JUST STARTED BUYING FASTER AND FASTER. 5800, 7.5 6.5 5.5 4.5 AND NOW TO THE 3.5.
UNLIKE YOU THOUGH I SOLD THE MOTOR I HAD TO BUY THE NEXT ONE UP. I CURRENTLY HAVE A 4300 WITH THE UPGRADED , NOT SINTERED THOUGH, ROTOR, A FULL RACE 13.5 AND THE MEAN 3.5 R.
THE ONLY ONE I EVERY GET TO RACE FULL STRENGTH IS THE 13.5 . THE OTHER 2 ARE IN BREAKOUT CARS.
BUT THE POWER IS THERE IF I NEED IT. AND I CAN RUN 4300 WITH A SWITCH OF CAP TIRES AND SOME SPRING ADJUSTMENTS.
I LOVE IT. I KNOW BRUSHED MOTOR GUYS LOVE TO TINKER WITH MOTORS BUT BRUSHLESS IS JUST WONDERFUL NOT TO CONVERT TO. IT'S A SIGN OF THE TIMES.
LIKE YOU SAID, IT'S ALL ABOUT THE SETUP, TIRES, AND BATTERIES NOW !!
4.5 is as fast as I can go till I get the 3.5.
Maybe by the time I can get the 3.5 they will have a 2.5
About the only motor at our track that I run full bore is the 4300, heres a pic of our traveling trophy we hand off on Tuesday nights from winner to winner.
Unfortunately I haven't brought it home for a while.
Last edited by UN4RACING; 08-21-2008 at 07:03 AM.
04-14-2007, 07:10 PM
#20
Originally Posted by UN4RACING
heres a pic of our traveling trophy we hand off on Tuesday nights from winner to winner.
Unfortunately I haven't brought it home for a while.
Unfortunately I haven't brought it home for a while.
04-14-2007, 07:12 PM
#21
HAHAHA, LOVE THE ARMATURE STICKING UP OUT OF THE BASE, NICE TOUCH !!!
YEAH THE 3.5 ISN'T FOR THE FAINT OF HEART OR POCKET BOOK. THE LEGENDS HAVE FAIRLY STRONG STEEL AXLES AND AS OF NOW I HAVE BENT 3 OF THEM. 2 OF THEM BENT SO BAD THAT THE RIGHT REAR TIRE WOULD WEDGE UP UNDER THE BODY AND WANT NOT WANT TO ROLL. OF COURSE THE FIRST TIME I JUST POWERED ON THROUGH IT AND WATCHED THE BODY PEEL THE FOAM TIRE LIKE IT WAS A APPLE IN ONE OF THOSE RONCO PEELERS, HAHAHAHA !!
THEN I SWITCHED TO CAP TIRES.
YEAH THE 3.5 ISN'T FOR THE FAINT OF HEART OR POCKET BOOK. THE LEGENDS HAVE FAIRLY STRONG STEEL AXLES AND AS OF NOW I HAVE BENT 3 OF THEM. 2 OF THEM BENT SO BAD THAT THE RIGHT REAR TIRE WOULD WEDGE UP UNDER THE BODY AND WANT NOT WANT TO ROLL. OF COURSE THE FIRST TIME I JUST POWERED ON THROUGH IT AND WATCHED THE BODY PEEL THE FOAM TIRE LIKE IT WAS A APPLE IN ONE OF THOSE RONCO PEELERS, HAHAHAHA !!
THEN I SWITCHED TO CAP TIRES.
04-14-2007, 07:14 PM
#22
THE TROPHY LOOKS LIKE GENE SIMMONS IN HIS BEST KISS OUTFIT IF YOU JUST LOOK AT IT FROM THE POST.
04-14-2007, 07:19 PM
#23
oing?
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
THE TROPHY LOOKS LIKE GENE SIMMONS IN HIS BEST KISS OUTFIT IF YOU JUST LOOK AT IT FROM THE POST.
I thought you guys might like to see that one. This summer for dirt, I may make one out of a mister potato head toy.
04-14-2007, 07:51 PM
#24
Tech Regular
is there a difference between the orange timing ring and the regular black timing ring?
04-14-2007, 07:57 PM
#25
Originally Posted by C_Suzuki
is there a difference between the orange timing ring and the regular black timing ring?
04-14-2007, 07:59 PM
#26
Originally Posted by C_Suzuki
is there a difference between the orange timing ring and the regular black timing ring?
Orange is there to indicate that it is a 13.5. And Green ring indicates it is a 10.5.
04-14-2007, 09:01 PM
#27
Originally Posted by C_Suzuki
is there a difference between the orange timing ring and the regular black timing ring?
BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT TINKERING WITH THE RING. WHEN I FIRST FOUND THAT YOU COULD ADJUST IT I PUT NEGATIVE TIMING IN IT OR TIMED IT OUT OR WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT AND IT SLOWED IT DOWNED A SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT.
I HAVEN'T BOUGHT THE NEW 13.5 AND PROBABLY WON'T SINCE I CAN UPGRADE MINE AND HAVE THE SAME MOTOR.
MARCEL
04-14-2007, 09:15 PM
#29
Originally Posted by FUJIMO
ON THE OLDER 13.5 MOTORS THE BLACK TIMING RING CAN BE MOVED A LITTLE BIT. TO ADJUST THE TIMING. FROM WHAT I READ AT NOVAKS SITE THE ORANGE RING IS "LOCKED" SO IT CAN'T BE ADJUSTED. I THOUGHT IT WAS TO MAKE IT MORE LIKE A HANDOUT MOTOR. EVERYONE RUNNING THE SAME. PLUS LIKE BILL SAID , TO IDENTIFY WHAT MOTOR IS IN IT. THEORETICALLY SOMEONE CAN CHANGE THE PURPLE CENTER RING ON THE OLDER MOTORS AND RUN A 4300 OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. AS LONG AS THE TRACK OPERATOR DOESN'T CHECK IT OUT. AND YOU DON'T JUST UP AND LEAVE THE REST OF THE RACERS IN THE DUST. THAT MAKES IT KINDA HARD TO CHEAT, LOL LOL !!
BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT TINKERING WITH THE RING. WHEN I FIRST FOUND THAT YOU COULD ADJUST IT I PUT NEGATIVE TIMING IN IT OR TIMED IT OUT OR WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT AND IT SLOWED IT DOWNED A SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT.
I HAVEN'T BOUGHT THE NEW 13.5 AND PROBABLY WON'T SINCE I CAN UPGRADE MINE AND HAVE THE SAME MOTOR.
MARCEL
BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL ABOUT TINKERING WITH THE RING. WHEN I FIRST FOUND THAT YOU COULD ADJUST IT I PUT NEGATIVE TIMING IN IT OR TIMED IT OUT OR WHATEVER YOU WANT TO CALL IT AND IT SLOWED IT DOWNED A SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT.
I HAVEN'T BOUGHT THE NEW 13.5 AND PROBABLY WON'T SINCE I CAN UPGRADE MINE AND HAVE THE SAME MOTOR.
MARCEL
The Team Novak website also has a Motor Tech article to help race directors determine the "Motor Compliance" of a BL with an Inductance Meter.
04-14-2007, 09:21 PM
#30
WELL I WENT BACK OVER TO NOVAK AND YOU RIGHT IT DOESN'T MENTION A LOCKED RING BUT I KNOW I READ THAT SOMEWHERE. MIGHT HAVE BEEN TOWER, CAN'T REMEMBER. I KNOW I SAW IT BECAUSE I THOUGHT "WHY" ??
LOL LOL
LIKE YOU SAID, THE GAIN IS MINIMAL AND WITH MY CASE I WENT THE WRONG WAY WITH THE RING AND NOTICED A SHARP DROP OF POWER NEAR THE END OF THE HEAT.
I JUST HOPE MY LOCAL TRACK DOESN'T MAKE US START RUNNING THESE. I WILL PROBABLY NEVER GO TO A NATIONAL OR SANCTIONED RACE SO I HAVE NO WORRIES THERE.
MARCEL
LOL LOL
LIKE YOU SAID, THE GAIN IS MINIMAL AND WITH MY CASE I WENT THE WRONG WAY WITH THE RING AND NOTICED A SHARP DROP OF POWER NEAR THE END OF THE HEAT.
I JUST HOPE MY LOCAL TRACK DOESN'T MAKE US START RUNNING THESE. I WILL PROBABLY NEVER GO TO A NATIONAL OR SANCTIONED RACE SO I HAVE NO WORRIES THERE.
MARCEL