1LikesMugen MTX-4R
01-29-2009, 09:27 AM
#2536
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
01-29-2009, 11:46 AM
#2537
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
01-29-2009, 01:59 PM
#2539
diff
hey francis ,is the hot set-up for c/p a frt diff now? or still the spool
01-29-2009, 02:20 PM
#2540
You don't need ANY aluminium parts on the car, just run it like you stole it. Stainless screws are worthless, they are softer than the standard screws. Ti screws are good, if your car is overweight. Ti pivot balls are good, they are lighter, less unsprung mass. Maybe also the lightweight midshafts are worth trying, but I don't have them on my car. Most of the aftermarket "hop-ups" are worthless junk that only make the car look more shiny.
01-29-2009, 07:57 PM
#2541
Tech Apprentice
Hahahahhaha!! Good one !!
Thanks for all the thoughts guys. I was only wondering this because its a little hard to come by those alu parts at the LHS. Only way to get them would be to order them online.
But just a quick thought. Our LHS is a Mugen dealer, should he have all those parts, at least so that i can order them no?
Oh well.. Thanks for another great lesson learnt !
Thanks for all the thoughts guys. I was only wondering this because its a little hard to come by those alu parts at the LHS. Only way to get them would be to order them online.
But just a quick thought. Our LHS is a Mugen dealer, should he have all those parts, at least so that i can order them no?
Oh well.. Thanks for another great lesson learnt !
01-29-2009, 08:48 PM
#2543
Whats up, just read some of you alls earlier post about the picco.
Just have a couple things to say. I run picco i'm not sponsored i paid 179.00
At 301 raceway, clinton Maryland I run 20.6 - 21.4 lap times. at the capitol classic thats held in June. I put it in the Amain until the last qulifier got bumped out ended up in the Bmain. Not bad for 179.00 motor thats slow
Drive then buy power.
also it could have been the car
KYOSHO EVO maybe thats why i can go so fast with this so called slow motor.
Just kidding
gerry
becuase when you drive the best you will be the best!!!!!!!
KYOSHO WHAT!!!!!!!
Just have a couple things to say. I run picco i'm not sponsored i paid 179.00
At 301 raceway, clinton Maryland I run 20.6 - 21.4 lap times. at the capitol classic thats held in June. I put it in the Amain until the last qulifier got bumped out ended up in the Bmain. Not bad for 179.00 motor thats slow
Drive then buy power.
also it could have been the car
KYOSHO EVO maybe thats why i can go so fast with this so called slow motor.Just kidding
gerry
becuase when you drive the best you will be the best!!!!!!!
KYOSHO WHAT!!!!!!!PICCOOOOOO POWWWER!
thanks for posting that Gerry, can i copy it and post it in the JL thread!
01-29-2009, 08:57 PM
#2544
This is my taste :
Kawahara Aluminium Wheel Hex
Kawahara Rear Stabiliser
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Front Plate
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Back Plate
Mugen Seiki or Tamiya Titanium Screws ( I prefer to use 4mm longer screws for holding plastic parts all together ).
Kawahara Aluminium Wheel Hex
Kawahara Rear Stabiliser
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Front Plate
Kawahara Rear Hinge Pin Suspension Holder Back Plate
Mugen Seiki or Tamiya Titanium Screws ( I prefer to use 4mm longer screws for holding plastic parts all together ).
http://kawahara-racing.co.jp/mtx4.partslist/k.852b.jpg
and the kawahara chassis.
browse the page bro, very useful goodies
01-30-2009, 04:37 AM
#2545
hey francis ,is the hot set-up for c/p a frt diff now? or still the spool
01-30-2009, 05:03 PM
#2547
Tech Adept
01-31-2009, 12:39 AM
#2548
i agree with you
-wide open flowing track. one way, but if u need brakes
-little more technical, solid
-very technical, front diff.
-but the front diff can almost be made a solid with thicker fliuds.
driving style will decide it for you.
myself i doubt i will ever go back to a oneway after using the solid
-wide open flowing track. one way, but if u need brakes
-little more technical, solid
-very technical, front diff.
-but the front diff can almost be made a solid with thicker fliuds.
driving style will decide it for you.
myself i doubt i will ever go back to a oneway after using the solid
I have modified my one way, so I can, with a turn of a screw can adjust it gradually anywhere between full one way action to almost spool.
01-31-2009, 12:41 AM
#2549
Also, has anyone here experimented with adjustable wheelbase yet?
On my MTX4-R, I can shorten my wheelbase 2.5mm. Make a heck of a difference when you need real steering on tight tracks.
On my MTX4-R, I can shorten my wheelbase 2.5mm. Make a heck of a difference when you need real steering on tight tracks.
01-31-2009, 05:30 AM
#2550
Tech Adept
Stefan, by adjusting the wheelbase, do you mean cutting the front lower arms? I think this is what Mugen guys did at last years WC in Portugal to get more steering. Haven't tried it myself.
Care to explain in a bit more detail your adjustable oneway solution? Sounds interesting...
Care to explain in a bit more detail your adjustable oneway solution? Sounds interesting...
