lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

No problem, good luck


Pass you soon...

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

very good idea, I will try that out

NiTrO BoOsTeR

iTrader: (7)

yea mate had the same problem, the only way you can do it is if you wind in the width at the front it needs to come in to about 180mm, then when you get the universals then put it back at 199

Bad Mika

hi, i think this has been discussed before... need some help

i notice my mtx4r 'double' brake disk is hitting! my 353 carburetor and 'grinding' it off...

any problem if i were to grind off a bit more of my 353 carburetor so that tha brake disk doesn't touch it anymore ? (i am not sure how thick is the carburetor wall). do not want to increase the engine height..

appreciate any advice . please help thanks

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

just try and turn the carb a little so you get the clearance. I had to do the same with my os tz. Dont turn it so much that the linkage binds thou.

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

Just rotate the carb a little. Once done; cycle the throttle servo to make your carb closes without binding.


Pass you soon...

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

how do you measure track width? I dont have a setup board sticker and really dont have any idea where to measure it from. I have a tape measure and a set of 6 inch digital calipers?

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

This may seem a little complex at first but it is VERY accurate. Make sure your tank is empty then flip the car over and make sure the shocks are resting on the springs. Use your calipers to measure the distance of the opening at the front of the chassis. Subtract this distance from your desired track width. Then divide this by two. Now measure from one side of the chassis opening to the outside edge of the front tire (follow the dog bone / drive shaft to keep the caliper "square"). Adjust as needed. A full turn of the ball is 1mm.
Rear; this is a little different. You will be measuring from the opposite side of the rear diff pulley. If your measuring the right side then the other jaw of the caliper will be against the left side of the diff pulley. So take your desired track width divide it by two then add half the width of the rear diff pulley to each side.

tony montana

iTrader: (76)

thanks mugen drew, Now Im mad. I have a race tommorrow so I started my car a few minutes ago to tune the engine a little, and what do you know on the starter box I stripped 2nd gear!!!!! Im getting tierd of this, I dont know what to do, almost everytime I run this car I strip 2nd gear!!!! Any advice?

MugenDrew

iTrader: (36)

I have seen the chassis flexing issue cause this (parking lot race tracks stock chassis). I have seen the little ball transmission jam and cause this(with the little balls ALWAYS replace ALL of the tranny parts INCLUDING the two speed housing!). I have seen to tight or lose gear mesh cause this(take your time setting this, NO slop and NO bind!). I have seen a bunch of incorrect brake set ups cause this(the disk is 4mm wide, with the rear pod off of the chassis set the gap between the pads to 4.15-4.25 with new pads and disk). Not enuff snake meat in your Mongooses diet. Pick your poison.

JetMD

iTrader: (1)

Did you strip the new, different material, spur gear? If you don't have any, maybe that would help.

Baedarlboo

iTrader: (11)

i'm still running the stock gears the car came with....might want to check that your clutch bell or clutch plate isn't hitting the 2nd gear housing....

VA_Racer

iTrader: (21)

I have only stripped second gear once this season!! And that was because of gear mesh and I have the old spur gears. As long as you mesh is right you shouldn't have a problem.

Baedarlboo

iTrader: (11)

If you're stripping gears before you even touch pavement, you're either not meshed right, or something is loose, or the clutch bell is hitting the second gear housing.
Mesh with the first gear spur off, make sure that that the chassis brace is on and tight before meshing. When you mesh, take into account that the clutchbell will move out slightly from end play. So line the pinion gear a "blip" hair back. Then make sure your motor mount screws (the ones on the bottom of the chassis) are not too long, as the two towards the back of the motor can hit the screws on the opposite side. Once all that has been checked, and you mesh everything right, check your oneway on the first gear. Assemble everything and start it on the box, don't just nail the trigger, but play with it to see if you have any bind, or look for any flexing...
Last, all the screws that screw into plastic must not be stripped. The rear bulkhead needs to be replaced if any of the screws can't be tightened tight! loose screws causes flex.

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

Anybody knows what will happen if i use a smaller flywheel than the stock from mugen?

I am looking at Knack-racing 26mm flywheel options.

http://www.knack-racing.com/

Thanks