Got the Mrc most of the way together..Pics
#1
#3
I know the clamping motor mount used to spin and eat spur gears. Why not a v2 mount. Also is it possible to move the servo to other side and run stagger saddle packs? The car does look nice tho.
#5
nice,very nice.
#6
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I believe I sent it to you already but you did get my FAQ correct?
What mamba do you have there?
For those buying this buggy, its a good platform, especially to get started in 4wd. Probably the most durable 4wd buggy out there.
A few simple tips:
1. For a stiffer chassis, buy the battery post kit, and put the battery post into the middle of the chassis where those holes are, it will stiffen up the chassis significantly.
2. AE springs with the AE lower spring cups will work on the chassis
3. Go with #3 and #4 teflon pistons, they work very well or drill out 2 hole Academy pistons to the sizes you desire.
4. The Grand Prix tires work very well, especially when using a firmer foam.
5. you can mount up to a 74 tooth spur I believe on the chassis. Contact MRC to order and confirm. This will give you much better gearing ranges with hot motors.
6. If you want a different motor mount, give acratech a call and see if they can make you one, they make one similar to the Kose motor mount, which is similar to the V2 motor mount.
7. Threadlock the screws that hold the wheels on.
Most of all have fun! If you have any questions, let me know and also search rc10b4.com Academy SB V1 thread.
What mamba do you have there?
For those buying this buggy, its a good platform, especially to get started in 4wd. Probably the most durable 4wd buggy out there.
A few simple tips:
1. For a stiffer chassis, buy the battery post kit, and put the battery post into the middle of the chassis where those holes are, it will stiffen up the chassis significantly.
2. AE springs with the AE lower spring cups will work on the chassis
3. Go with #3 and #4 teflon pistons, they work very well or drill out 2 hole Academy pistons to the sizes you desire.
4. The Grand Prix tires work very well, especially when using a firmer foam.
5. you can mount up to a 74 tooth spur I believe on the chassis. Contact MRC to order and confirm. This will give you much better gearing ranges with hot motors.
6. If you want a different motor mount, give acratech a call and see if they can make you one, they make one similar to the Kose motor mount, which is similar to the V2 motor mount.
7. Threadlock the screws that hold the wheels on.
Most of all have fun! If you have any questions, let me know and also search rc10b4.com Academy SB V1 thread.
#7
Hello I am running the Mamba Max 7700 with a 8000 Maxxamps lipo pack.
I have yet to run it,but I had to run the pinion gear that came with the kit so I hope I can get the gearing close....I dont plan on racing the car just banging around and running with a buddy..
I did have to trim the battery tray just a bit to get the pack to fit...well its in there we'll leave it at that..lol..
I did run into one issue that I noticed and that is a axle that seems to not fit very well...The rear shafts seem on the ragid edge of being long enough..Actually the right rear,when the car is on the ground is on the edge of falling out of the diff out drive.Everything seems to be lined up right and there dont seem to be excess slack in the axles.
Any ideas
I have yet to run it,but I had to run the pinion gear that came with the kit so I hope I can get the gearing close....I dont plan on racing the car just banging around and running with a buddy..
I did have to trim the battery tray just a bit to get the pack to fit...well its in there we'll leave it at that..lol..
I did run into one issue that I noticed and that is a axle that seems to not fit very well...The rear shafts seem on the ragid edge of being long enough..Actually the right rear,when the car is on the ground is on the edge of falling out of the diff out drive.Everything seems to be lined up right and there dont seem to be excess slack in the axles.
Any ideas
#9
Yeah Im at work right now.....Ill take some tonight.
#10
Nevermind I figured it out...I had the pin through the inside hole on the bottom of the hub carrier and I moved it to the inside hole and that fixed it...
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
#11
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Great,
Here is alittle tip to help extend the life of the hubs:
Use some heatshrink tubing and slide it over the diff outdrives before or after you mount of the cvds. This will help center the pins and extend the life of the outdrive cups. You could also punch out the pins and put longer ones in. There is info of this being done on the rc10b4.com site if you search for it. Just put the longer pins in.
Here is alittle tip to help extend the life of the hubs:
Use some heatshrink tubing and slide it over the diff outdrives before or after you mount of the cvds. This will help center the pins and extend the life of the outdrive cups. You could also punch out the pins and put longer ones in. There is info of this being done on the rc10b4.com site if you search for it. Just put the longer pins in.