K.Copeland

iTrader: (96)

Personally, if your new to the hobby, I think it'd be better to buy from the lhs, so if something does go wrong( and it will) you have someone to go to, rather than post on here 5 times every day. You will pay more up front, but you'd be supporting the lhs and you'd be getting a new car.

RCn00bHelpMe

lhs = 499.99 + 50 tax

30$ charger + $30 battery.

we're looken at 600+ at lhs... i got it all for 330

RCn00bHelpMe

will they not help me if i bought it elsewhere? I'll still be paying $30 a gallon for nitro from them, so they probably will help right?

LOWGEARED

iTrader: (2)

Yes they will !!! dont listen to negative feedback!!!

RCn00bHelpMe

aight.

is there a way to change your username or do you need to make a whole new account?

Ofna_Driver_777

Don't think you can change your username

SUNA

iTrader: (47)

PM a moderator.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

Picking up a set of hardened hex drivers would also be a good idea. Nitro cars vibrate and will cause the screws to vibrate loose. It will be a good idea to look the car over and tighten screws each time you run the buggy.

carloco8

I know alot of guys here have helped you answer questions about buying your first rc car. Well, now that you actually have one on the way, I expect that you will have more questions too, which is no problem, thats why we are here lol. Anyways, when you do get it, DON"T slap all the batteries in, dump gas in it and fire it up! Since it is used, you will want to consider checking all the components for damage or if anything needs replacement (despite what the previous owner says). Sometimes you will find bent shock shafts, bent hinge pins, and all sorts of altered linkaging. Believe me, losts of negative things can still be done to a car in just three weekends of racing! Also, get some extra glow plugs and keep the air filter clean. Most importantly, have fun and just be patient with the car especially since you chose nitro to be your first r/c.

Kcdzim

iTrader: (1)

You probably have some of this by now already, but you will need (or want to soon get):

-Glo-plug starter (edit - looks like you auction may have provided this)
-Glo-plug wrench (edit - looks like you auction may have provided this)
-At least a couple more Med glow plugs (generally shouldn't use "hot" glowplugs in a .21 size engine).
-Blue Thread lock
-Fuel bottle (edit - looks like you auction may have provided this)
-Extra foam air filters (they don't last forever)
-After-Run oil
-An oil suitable for the air filters (potentially the same after run oil, though silicone oil for shocks works as well)
-Hex drivers (previously mentioned, make sure you get the correct set - I'm not sure if the Jammin is imperial or metric)
-Screw set (RC Screwz or Tony's Screwz for example - you WILL lose them).

You'll also probably want some form of nitro spray cleaner. Personally, I go to Schucks or an auto store and get Brake cleaner. Cheaper for more.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

I would highly recommend doing a teardown of the vehicle and go through it. Clean it up, and do a rebuild. Thats what I always do on any used vehicle, you will be suprised what you find out about the vehicles condition as well as fix any issues that are there before it makes it worse.

K.Copeland

iTrader: (96)

I wasnt bashing you for buying a used car, nor was I giving you crap for posting everyday, we all do that. Were all here to help one another. I'll agree $330 is alot better than $600 especially if it's your first car.

However, I'd think you'd get better support from the lhs if you have purchased from them. Kind of like buying a full size car from someone other than the local dealer, when the time comes for warranty work/ scheduled maintenance, you'll be treated much better if you bought it from the same place. It's a fact.

I only said this because I've been burned way too many times when I bought used equipment.

If your happy with your purchase, that's all that matters. Good luck and keep us posted.