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Old 07-30-2003, 09:15 PM
  #2176  
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Default Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts

Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Better Driving... They are quite rigid....and you have ti heat up the A-arm before you put the 6.8mm ball into them or they will crack 100%

-Dave
That is VERY good info. to have received!

Thanks Dave!


John
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:21 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts

Originally posted by rtypec
Hey Ko, since your sending homeboy stuff , ya might as well order a Reedy Race DVD from Izzyracer and ship it so that he can see RBF in action as well

Oh yeah, it says:



I think that's either Steve's or John's Cuda in the pick.

The Evo thread's kinda slow lately so I've been trolling here
Again with the fishing joke Rod?...

That is Steve's car (Keyence ESC) I'm a bit more partial to "le pouvoir orange"
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:28 PM
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What are the Hard suspension peices made of? Carbon or some other space age material.

I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:50 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts

Originally posted by madjack
That is VERY good info. to have received!

Thanks Dave!


John
Very true, just saved me from cracking a couple sets of arms
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts

Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Just use a hair dyer... that should do the trick...

also if you want to tighten the 6.8mm balls you can hyst flip them over and add a 1mm shim under the ball head to make adjusting them more user friendly

-Dave

So that's why your balls were upside in that picture.

Why don't you guys tap the hole in the arm first?
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:53 PM
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Dagnabit!! I don't look at this thread for 1/2 a day and missed out on the web cuda's


RC zombies:

Hope you're going to the Rocks race on the 10th with the new car so we can see it.
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Old 07-30-2003, 09:55 PM
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I just finished rebuilding my car and prepping it for Hitec. Got a new body painted up (white and silver, rather than dark blue and black like the body I have been running, easier on the eyes) And going to mount a few sets of tires for Hitec tomorrow. The Alfa 2.0 body looks like it will be loaded with traction, which should be a good thing Gonna see if I can get some decals made tomorrow.

I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:17 PM
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Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
What are the Hard suspension peices made of? Carbon or some other space age material.

I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
if your still learning the Cuda` Srick with the stock arms...they will Crack after a few good hard hits right around were the ball goes through...but after you learn the way the Cuda Drives.. then these will be worth more than there weight in gold...

-Dave
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:19 PM
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Originally posted by Randman


I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
I have a few tricks to make that thing free up... eheheheh

-Dave
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:31 PM
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Any chance of you sharing? With the wheels attached, I could get the pal to spin for about 2 seconds, without the PAL, it goes for about 12...
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:36 PM
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Originally posted by Randman
Any chance of you sharing? With the wheels attached, I could get the pal to spin for about 2 seconds, without the PAL, it goes for about 12...
??? 12 & 2 there`s something wrong there..


HOw much drive train noise was there....while it was spinning.. ..

and have you tried the shim trick yet..?? all of my Cuda`s can spin for 12+ seconds and all are wisper quiet on the track now...quiet enough that I can here the motor windout ..

1st how much play wasy in the PAL drive system on the shaft...fore and aft.??
2nd how hard was it to get the drive cups into the 16T bevel gears..??

-Dave
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:49 PM
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The car was actually quieter with the PAL system than it was without, which surprized me. I havent tried the shim trick yet, my car seems pretty quiet as it is. There is about .5mm fore and aft play on the shaft (1 thin orange O-Ring on either side) And the drive cups slid right into the bevel gears.

I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:53 PM
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Originally posted by Randman
The car was actually quieter with the PAL system than it was without, which surprized me. I havent tried the shim trick yet, my car seems pretty quiet as it is. There is about .5mm fore and aft play on the shaft (1 thin orange O-Ring on either side) And the drive cups slid right into the bevel gears.

I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
Try putting it back together with the Drive system and just take out the drive shaft and spin the front and rear..and see where you are getting the drag...you should be able to troubleshoot the problem from there...

Try this out and let me know...there still are a few more things but try this 1st

-Dave
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Old 07-30-2003, 11:41 PM
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Does anyone know where to get castor blocks with less castor? Model numbers??

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-31-2003, 12:03 AM
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Originally posted by linger
Does anyone know where to get castor blocks with less castor? Model numbers??

Thanks in advance!

Just buy a shim set from ALEX Racing..to reduce some of the Castor..... Cheaper than a set of new hubs

-Dave
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