Alex Racing Barracuda R2 & R3
#2176
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Better Driving... They are quite rigid....and you have ti heat up the A-arm before you put the 6.8mm ball into them or they will crack 100%
-Dave
Better Driving... They are quite rigid....and you have ti heat up the A-arm before you put the 6.8mm ball into them or they will crack 100%
-Dave
Thanks Dave!
John
#2177
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts
Originally posted by rtypec
Hey Ko, since your sending homeboy stuff , ya might as well order a Reedy Race DVD from Izzyracer and ship it so that he can see RBF in action as well
Oh yeah, it says:
I think that's either Steve's or John's Cuda in the pick.
The Evo thread's kinda slow lately so I've been trolling here
Hey Ko, since your sending homeboy stuff , ya might as well order a Reedy Race DVD from Izzyracer and ship it so that he can see RBF in action as well
Oh yeah, it says:
I think that's either Steve's or John's Cuda in the pick.
The Evo thread's kinda slow lately so I've been trolling here
That is Steve's car (Keyence ESC) I'm a bit more partial to "le pouvoir orange"
#2178
Tech Master
What are the Hard suspension peices made of? Carbon or some other space age material.
I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
#2180
Tech Elite
Re: Re: Re: Re: "hard" suspension parts
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Just use a hair dyer... that should do the trick...
also if you want to tighten the 6.8mm balls you can hyst flip them over and add a 1mm shim under the ball head to make adjusting them more user friendly
-Dave
Just use a hair dyer... that should do the trick...
also if you want to tighten the 6.8mm balls you can hyst flip them over and add a 1mm shim under the ball head to make adjusting them more user friendly
-Dave
So that's why your balls were upside in that picture.
Why don't you guys tap the hole in the arm first?
#2181
Tech Elite
Dagnabit!! I don't look at this thread for 1/2 a day and missed out on the web cuda's
RC zombies:
Hope you're going to the Rocks race on the 10th with the new car so we can see it.
RC zombies:
Hope you're going to the Rocks race on the 10th with the new car so we can see it.
#2182
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
I just finished rebuilding my car and prepping it for Hitec. Got a new body painted up (white and silver, rather than dark blue and black like the body I have been running, easier on the eyes) And going to mount a few sets of tires for Hitec tomorrow. The Alfa 2.0 body looks like it will be loaded with traction, which should be a good thing Gonna see if I can get some decals made tomorrow.
I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
#2183
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by HEYALIGNMENTGUY
What are the Hard suspension peices made of? Carbon or some other space age material.
I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
What are the Hard suspension peices made of? Carbon or some other space age material.
I can understand the use for a more ridged suspension, but some of us are still learning the car so we still cut the corners alittle to short and hit a board or pipe
-Dave
#2184
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Randman
I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
I ran the PAL system at SoCal yesterday, but couldn't get the drivetrain free with it. So I switched back to the stock drivetrain, hopefully this Robinson machined gear will hold up
-Dave
#2186
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Randman
Any chance of you sharing? With the wheels attached, I could get the pal to spin for about 2 seconds, without the PAL, it goes for about 12...
Any chance of you sharing? With the wheels attached, I could get the pal to spin for about 2 seconds, without the PAL, it goes for about 12...
HOw much drive train noise was there....while it was spinning.. ..
and have you tried the shim trick yet..?? all of my Cuda`s can spin for 12+ seconds and all are wisper quiet on the track now...quiet enough that I can here the motor windout ..
1st how much play wasy in the PAL drive system on the shaft...fore and aft.??
2nd how hard was it to get the drive cups into the 16T bevel gears..??
-Dave
#2187
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (47)
The car was actually quieter with the PAL system than it was without, which surprized me. I havent tried the shim trick yet, my car seems pretty quiet as it is. There is about .5mm fore and aft play on the shaft (1 thin orange O-Ring on either side) And the drive cups slid right into the bevel gears.
I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
#2188
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Randman
The car was actually quieter with the PAL system than it was without, which surprized me. I havent tried the shim trick yet, my car seems pretty quiet as it is. There is about .5mm fore and aft play on the shaft (1 thin orange O-Ring on either side) And the drive cups slid right into the bevel gears.
I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
The car was actually quieter with the PAL system than it was without, which surprized me. I havent tried the shim trick yet, my car seems pretty quiet as it is. There is about .5mm fore and aft play on the shaft (1 thin orange O-Ring on either side) And the drive cups slid right into the bevel gears.
I can't figure it out, because everything seems fine.
Try this out and let me know...there still are a few more things but try this 1st
-Dave