malik

iTrader: (19)

How much camber are you guys running? And why? I am running -1 front and rear. Is that okay?

Mcran

We run -2 Camber front and -3 rear most of the time. The more camber in the front gives more steering and the more camber in the rear gives less side bite. More camber goes through bumps and ruts better.

ILDRVR

I just ran -2 front and back this past weekend. I just readjusted to -3 in the front. I wanted to try it this upcoming weekend. I also messed with swaping 1/2" offset and standard wheels. Right now it is a toss-up, the truck handled better in some sections with the 1/2" and it turned sharper in the tighter sections with the standard.

malik

iTrader: (19)

Ok thanks, now brakes I was running about 65 fr 35 rear. I am getting the advantage disks tomorrow probably if I am guessing right on the mailman. Now I noticed from the 1 and only time I raced my trug I drive it aggresively, diving into the corners. My local track mostly consists of 180 deg turns so I think I should reverse the bias I was running, was I right or no and why?

TripleX-JT

iTrader: (1)

Here are some shots of my TR before it goes on the BCE diet.

malik

iTrader: (19)

Looks good, You going to be selling the parts you will be taking off to do the switch? I am interested in at least the chassis/guards that is the FRE chassis correct?

ILDRVR

Malik: I run my brake bias more in the rear and less in the front. It feels like the front will pull through the corners a bit better.

Josh: Is that a brand new truck or did you just replace everything on your old one? Anyway it looks good and ready to race. What body is that? Have you used the blue springs yet? I am still running the green but I do have the blue sitting in my box. Anyway I am running Andy's 2008 setup with very few alterations and the truck handles very well.

Good luck this year and I will see you at the track

TripleX-JT

iTrader: (1)

I also wanted to let everyone know that I was at my LHS today I found that the springs from Sportwerks are a perfect fit for the TR. They have soft, med, med firm, firm, and Xtra-firm to choose from.

Here is the link for Amain http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...jkbie27ltuflh5

I will be trying some this weekend.

Malik - that is correct it is the FRE. Im not sure at this point what I will be doing with it. I will keep you posted. I will say that the guards are a big benny when it comes to keeping the inside clean.

Nino - I should of just bought a new truck but instead I gutted my old RTR and converted the entire thing over to what you would get if you bought a FRE kit. Now Im converting it over to the BCE so I get to start all over again. I am hoping to have it converted for this weekends race. So if you come up you will be able to check it out.

As for the body it is the JConcepts lid for the Mugen Truggy.

I was going to run the blue springs but with the weight of this truck I slapping the chassis of the ground when I would drop it from waste high. So I switched back to the green but after this weekend I talk to a couple other racers and they said that when they were watching the truck I was losing time pushing dirt and that I should stiffen the shocks up. This is why I am stoked about the fact that Sportswerks have so many springs to chose from.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

DAMN !! ... just ended the 43/10 - 50t - 43/10 mod to my TR and i realize that if i get the engine closer to the center (dont know yet 13T or 14T) the engine head will touch the big composite rear brace !!! ... i have a big race this week so i dont have time to order parts or anything to mod the rear brace to buggy style one ... so ... i think i will just cut the rear composite brace just to the point of the rear post (in the middle of the way between center diff and rear tower) ... do you think it would be enough stiff for a race on a technical not big jumps track ? ... thanks !!!

This is a vide of the track, its new to me, 6 hours car trip track will test it for the first time on saturday morning for a 3 days event ... :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwCo1x9LStc

thanks again for any help or advice,

C Branch

iTrader: (21)

Pato, I had that problem too. Just dremel the brace enough to clear the head. It only took a few mm's.

Colin

ILDRVR

When I ran my Werks and LRP they both needed the extra clearance. I just dremeled the brace a bit to get clearance. Make sure you dremel enough so that the engine will sit straight, otherwise you will chew through clutch bearings and bells.

Tabushi

iTrader: (1)

Just dremel ? ... are you using a 45T bell ? lol !!! ...

Look at this pics, i just dont see how can i dremel just a bit of the brace, i think i will have to cut it leaving just the first part of it from the post to the rear end ... :











thanks man !!

ILDRVR

Sorry, I guess I just used the dremel with the stock spur gear

Tree

iTrader: (8)

I had to modify the chassis brace with a Dremel to move the engine over. I am using Kyosho diffs with a 52t spur.

malik

iTrader: (19)

Yeah my 1st race I was using more front bias and didnt like it. I switched to the Advantage disks today and this weekend will be trying more rear bias. I noticed that I drove very aggressive it was like thats what my trug wanted me to do. But most of the turns are 180's so I would brake and IDK I just feel that the front looser would bring me through the turns faster.