12LikesYokomo MR-4TC SD
09-28-2005, 08:05 PM
Originally Posted by tharv
Chad,
I've got the short ones on the front, long ones on the rear. bought the car used, that's how it was put together. actually when i got it the long ones were on the front. swaped front to back & it got better. the car actually has SSG shock towers on it, don't know if it matters ?? The rear has been ok, it's the front that's giving me fits !! tried changing shock length to 61.5. With orange springs, it still won't get below 6mm ride height. will the perches make a difference & can i still use stock springs ??
Thanks for the help !!
I've got the short ones on the front, long ones on the rear. bought the car used, that's how it was put together. actually when i got it the long ones were on the front. swaped front to back & it got better. the car actually has SSG shock towers on it, don't know if it matters ?? The rear has been ok, it's the front that's giving me fits !! tried changing shock length to 61.5. With orange springs, it still won't get below 6mm ride height. will the perches make a difference & can i still use stock springs ??
Thanks for the help !!
Yes, I'm sure that the SSG towers make a difference. I wouldn't be suprised if that is the sole problem with your ride height. Find someone with the regular towers, or order a set. You won't have a problem after you get the suspension back to stock form. I doubt you'll even need the rayspeed retainers after you get new towers and shock ends.
peace
=chad
09-28-2005, 08:09 PM
Tech Apprentice
lengthend shocks to 63mm. front height just a touch below 6mm. if they'll really make a difference, I'll get the perches. want to run this thing sometime !!
09-28-2005, 08:51 PM
Tech Apprentice
You were right Chad. The SSG tower made all the difference. I put the stock tower back on & used the stock mounting locations. with the shocks at 63mm, the ride height was down to 2mm. good call !! guess I'll put the stock rear on as well, order another set of short mounts & use the stock set up in the back.
Thanks to all !! You've been a tremendous help !!
Tom
09-29-2005, 06:01 AM
anyone know if there is a thicker chassis availalble for the LCG?
09-29-2005, 07:03 AM
Originally Posted by Rob Phillips
anyone know if there is a thicker chassis availalble for the LCG?
09-29-2005, 07:22 AM
Tech Regular
it wouldnt be to hard to make your own, as the only holes that are different to the standard sd are the steering belcrank posts, motor mount and battey post holes, so you could get a normal thicker sd chassis, and ask them to put some extra holes in it?
09-29-2005, 03:53 PM
If anyone's looking for a never-used SD SSG, please check out my post in the For Sale forum 
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=85523
http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=85523
09-29-2005, 05:37 PM
YOK PART #
Anybody have the part # for the Yok bleeder screw for the shock caps?
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
09-29-2005, 08:09 PM
Originally Posted by tharv
You were right Chad. The SSG tower made all the difference. I put the stock tower back on & used the stock mounting locations. with the shocks at 63mm, the ride height was down to 2mm. good call !! guess I'll put the stock rear on as well, order another set of short mounts & use the stock set up in the back.
Thanks to all !! You've been a tremendous help !!
Tom
09-29-2005, 08:10 PM
Originally Posted by lem2
I asked BMI about it but to no avail. There too busy withthe tc4,1/12th and mi2. Too bad.
09-29-2005, 08:17 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
The CGM is very stiff and works pretty good on carpet.
09-29-2005, 10:45 PM
Good to hear that about the CGM. I bought some CGM parts from a member here and I'm going to convert my Yokomo DP to a CGM and try come carpet racing with it.
Another question, I've got a set of TC3 threaded shock bodies and unobtanium shock shafts and I want to build some shocks for my Yokomo DP. I haven't bought the parts yet, but should I build them the way Team Associated says to, or should I build them the Yokomo way with some Yokomo parts (with the bladder). Thanks!
Another question, I've got a set of TC3 threaded shock bodies and unobtanium shock shafts and I want to build some shocks for my Yokomo DP. I haven't bought the parts yet, but should I build them the way Team Associated says to, or should I build them the Yokomo way with some Yokomo parts (with the bladder). Thanks!
09-30-2005, 02:02 AM
Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Anybody have the part # for the Yok bleeder screw for the shock caps?
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
And also the # for the clamping hex drives and does the oring for the roll pin come with the hex drives?
Thanks,
E
ZS-011EL is the hex drives complete with pin and o-ring.
ZR-011SM is the hex drive maintenance kit (not sure what is in this).
YS-8D are the complete shock caps with screw.
As far as the screw itself goes, it is pretty tiny, I think it may be an M2x6mm round head self tapper. You might be able to source them seperately.
HTH
09-30-2005, 03:13 AM
YOK part
I am look at the thickness of the hex, it is half the thickness of the FTC4 hex, this narrows the car 2mm on each side. This moves the hub further into the rim, changing roll rate of the suspension, making it respond faster than the stock part, feeling more responsive to all driver input. This is a Yokomo part just checking on a part #.
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
picture of low profile hex with o-ring..
Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 09-30-2005 at 03:14 AM. Reason: @$#$
09-30-2005, 03:31 AM
Tech Apprentice
One more quick qusetion. How tight should I run the diffs ??
Thanks !!
Thanks !!
