agower

if your own about the steering blocks at the front then suzuki still make them, we can still get them in england quite easily and once they have all gone they come back in stock about 2 weeks later.

link to shop with front blocks in stock
link to same shop with rear hubs in stock

hope this helps.
a gower

coons88

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks, does that site ship worldwide?

agower

it sure does, it might prove quite costly at the end though,

speedy-932

@Pro4Capece:Images

@coons88: www.rc-champ.co.jp The best shop I've ever used.

ChadCapece

Man, I thought you were on asphalt Definantly run swaybars. If you don't have enough steering then use a stiffer bar on the rear.

speedy-932

I had too much steering... but it was ok... just don't turn that much on the steering wheel...

Cheers
Chris

ChadCapece

then put a stiffer bar on the front

speedy-932

I liked the car how it was. And sometimes you need a bit of extra steering.

Has anyone of you changed his setup? Next weekend is the HPI Germany final and I'm looking for some setup tips. Yes... I have setup that's quite good but I think some of you guys are more experienced then me...
That's the track

Motor is a 17T motor and tires are HPI B15-40... I felt that they drive like Sorex 36 at low temperatures... just slower...
What guys do you think? How should I setup the LCG? Traction should be good... if it doesn't rain...

Thanks
Cheers
Chris

Yokibear

Man are the yokomo cvd's their achilles heel or what? Ive lost count of the number of cvd coupling pins I've had to replace just lately.I know the answer is to not hit anything but geez! What is the alternative? Are the old MR4TC
axles any better?

KO PROPO Staff

I've been using these and these for about a year before I had to replace them. Hope this aids in your problem.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem. The issue is the stock cvd pins are too short which allows the pin to come loose during a run. I switched to the Barricuda CVD pins which are long enough to allow the pin to go all the way through on both sides with just a small amount of pin pertruding from the axle (not enough to rub the inside of the steering knuckle). I haven't broken a pin since.

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

I use electrical tape over the drive axels to stop the pin from missing even if the grub screw loosens.

Yokibear

Yeh I always thought the pins were too short in fact just this morning at work i have ground down some 1.5mm drill bits to what I consider a better length and will give them a go.But if I can get the Barracuda pins I'll use them.

ChadCapece

In two battery packs, I lost two front pins, one front axle, and one bone. Never hit a thing running with modifieds. None of those backed out. Then last weekend I had another pin snap, and lost the coupling and my last pin. I ended up cutting off the straight edge of a body clip to use as a pin. It didn't break, but has alot of slop. I bought some RS MIP's for the front and tobee AL. bones for the rear. Should be nice and efficient for the US nats.

caltech1

I have been using the one piece CVD Hardened Universals which is a one piece unit. The part number is ZS-010FH and requires the ball end to be ground down for fitment into the one-way cups. Replacement hardened Universals for both the front and rear are also listed on the Yokomo web site under new products and can be seen by using the link on agowers post thread 14437 page 482. The part number for the Hardened Universals are SD-010FH and SD-010RH and are sold in pairs.
I purchased my Hardened Universals from Hobby Habit South Australia. These are definately worth purchasing. I was having the same problems with the pins coming loose and also not being long enough.
A picture of these Harden Universals is shown on page 481 Thread number 14428.

Hope this helps.
Calvin.