Yokomo MR-4TC SD
#9436
Sometimes the grub screw on the motor pinion can stick out enough to catch the spur gear. Take a look just in case.
#9437
Tech Master
Speaking of spur gears......
Yokomo problem 2568.......
The spur gear adaptor is causing the spur gear itself to wobble.
Screwing the spur to the adaptor as evenly as possible (and using various brands of spur) it spins without wobble...BUT.... as soon as I screw down the grub screw onto the input shaft (even stopping as soon as I feel any resistance of the screw on the shaft) the spur wobbles.
This I figured is due to the shaft being a lose fit through the adaptor and when the screw (as mentioned above) barely touches the shaft it is causing the adaptor to run untrue.
Any ideas how to stop this happening as I have two adaptors and it does it with both of them?
For the sort of money in NZ I had to pay for this thing it's turning out to be the least well constructed kit (accuracy of part fit wise) I've ever had the misfortune to buy.
The spur gear adaptor is causing the spur gear itself to wobble.
Screwing the spur to the adaptor as evenly as possible (and using various brands of spur) it spins without wobble...BUT.... as soon as I screw down the grub screw onto the input shaft (even stopping as soon as I feel any resistance of the screw on the shaft) the spur wobbles.
This I figured is due to the shaft being a lose fit through the adaptor and when the screw (as mentioned above) barely touches the shaft it is causing the adaptor to run untrue.
Any ideas how to stop this happening as I have two adaptors and it does it with both of them?
For the sort of money in NZ I had to pay for this thing it's turning out to be the least well constructed kit (accuracy of part fit wise) I've ever had the misfortune to buy.
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 08-18-2004 at 09:25 AM.
#9438
Tech Regular
I don't understand why people still keep blasting the SD as "the least well constructed". My SD went together very well and runs very quiet. If you talk about spur gear's wobble, Asso tc3 and Losi's xxx spur gears have even more wobble. If you talk about part fit, try TC3, you will need two hours to dremel the gear boxs so the diffs will fit, then you will thank yokomo because their gearbox fit is top. Or the broken one way gear in Tamiya EVO3. Want to know more 'bugs' from other cars, the list is long. My point is every car has some 'bugs', there are ways to fix or get around them. SD is a very good car and well worth the money. Take you time, build it right and it will give you a big smile on the track.
#9442
Originally posted by caveman
I don't understand why people still keep blasting the SD as "the least well constructed". My SD went together very well and runs very quiet. If you talk about spur gear's wobble, Asso tc3 and Losi's xxx spur gears have even more wobble. If you talk about part fit, try TC3, you will need two hours to dremel the gear boxs so the diffs will fit, then you will thank yokomo because their gearbox fit is top. Or the broken one way gear in Tamiya EVO3. Want to know more 'bugs' from other cars, the list is long. My point is every car has some 'bugs', there are ways to fix or get around them. SD is a very good car and well worth the money. Take you time, build it right and it will give you a big smile on the track.
I don't understand why people still keep blasting the SD as "the least well constructed". My SD went together very well and runs very quiet. If you talk about spur gear's wobble, Asso tc3 and Losi's xxx spur gears have even more wobble. If you talk about part fit, try TC3, you will need two hours to dremel the gear boxs so the diffs will fit, then you will thank yokomo because their gearbox fit is top. Or the broken one way gear in Tamiya EVO3. Want to know more 'bugs' from other cars, the list is long. My point is every car has some 'bugs', there are ways to fix or get around them. SD is a very good car and well worth the money. Take you time, build it right and it will give you a big smile on the track.
540,,, the yok mechanic told me on the grub screw to use a very very small drop of lock tight, screw it in until it touches, then back it off just a touch. if you look closely, there is no way for the drive pin to fall out once the shaft is pushed into place.
having the car sitting on a stand with the motor running or turning my hand is no way to know how the car is going to work or sound sitting on the ground with a load on.
#9443
jaybee, body looks good, i would have left the "mistake" i thought it looked cool. FW sunday?
#9444
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by ritchie
jaybee, body looks good, i would have left the "mistake" i thought it looked cool. FW sunday?
jaybee, body looks good, i would have left the "mistake" i thought it looked cool. FW sunday?
Thanks for the props on the body; I would have left it 'cause I thought it was cool too but more than that, it was an eye-sore to me.
- jaybee
#9445
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
Re: Speaking of spur gears......
Originally posted by Mabuchi540
Yokomo problem 2568.......
The spur gear adaptor is causing the spur gear itself to wobble.
Screwing the spur to the adaptor as evenly as possible (and using various brands of spur) it spins without wobble...BUT.... as soon as I screw down the grub screw onto the input shaft (even stopping as soon as I feel any resistance of the screw on the shaft) the spur wobbles.
This I figured is due to the shaft being a lose fit through the adaptor and when the screw (as mentioned above) barely touches the shaft it is causing the adaptor to run untrue.
Any ideas how to stop this happening as I have two adaptors and it does it with both of them?
For the sort of money in NZ I had to pay for this thing it's turning out to be the least well constructed kit (accuracy of part fit wise) I've ever had the misfortune to buy.
Yokomo problem 2568.......
The spur gear adaptor is causing the spur gear itself to wobble.
Screwing the spur to the adaptor as evenly as possible (and using various brands of spur) it spins without wobble...BUT.... as soon as I screw down the grub screw onto the input shaft (even stopping as soon as I feel any resistance of the screw on the shaft) the spur wobbles.
This I figured is due to the shaft being a lose fit through the adaptor and when the screw (as mentioned above) barely touches the shaft it is causing the adaptor to run untrue.
Any ideas how to stop this happening as I have two adaptors and it does it with both of them?
For the sort of money in NZ I had to pay for this thing it's turning out to be the least well constructed kit (accuracy of part fit wise) I've ever had the misfortune to buy.
Easy Fix: Simply do not put the set screw in. Once the spur gear assembly is pushed foward into place the pin cannot come out. None of the factory guys run the set screw.
#9446
Tech Master
540,,, the yok mechanic told me on the grub screw to use a very very small drop of lock tight, screw it in until it touches, then back it off just a touch. if you look closely, there is no way for the drive pin to fall out once the shaft is pushed into place.
having the car sitting on a stand with the motor running or turning my hand is no way to know how the car is going to work or sound sitting on the ground with a load on. [/B]
Cheers dude.
#9447
not really, at the time of printing the manuals none of these tips tricks are known. its trail and error that many of these tips and tricks are found. you know like "hey what if i did this". and these forums are a great sourse to find these things out.
also if you build the car per the instuctions in the manual, it will operate just find. fine tuning is up the operator.
also if you build the car per the instuctions in the manual, it will operate just find. fine tuning is up the operator.
#9448
Originally posted by JayBee
I really want to but no pit gear i.e. tent, table, cords and the like.
Thanks for the props on the body; I would have left it 'cause I thought it was cool too but more than that, it was an eye-sore to me.
- jaybee
I really want to but no pit gear i.e. tent, table, cords and the like.
Thanks for the props on the body; I would have left it 'cause I thought it was cool too but more than that, it was an eye-sore to me.
- jaybee
i don't have those items either. the ones i use are fw's. if you get there early you can set up next to me.
#9449
Tech Master
Unrelated curious anomaly number two.....
Anyone else noticed the screws on their rides loosen in cold weather?
I ask because it's rather cold here in NZ at the moment and in the evening when I've built the car (and room is nice and warm) I've noticed that in the morning (when it's cold say around 10c/50f degree) the screws need tweaking in another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn?
Just wondering.
My guess is the screws themselves are far more affected by temp than the material they are screwed into.
And now for something completly different....
I know the shotkey diode has to go across the + and - terminals of the motor but as the 540 doesn't have these marked is it ok to just solder the diode further back and across the positive and negative esc wires?
I ask because it's rather cold here in NZ at the moment and in the evening when I've built the car (and room is nice and warm) I've noticed that in the morning (when it's cold say around 10c/50f degree) the screws need tweaking in another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn?
Just wondering.
My guess is the screws themselves are far more affected by temp than the material they are screwed into.
And now for something completly different....
I know the shotkey diode has to go across the + and - terminals of the motor but as the 540 doesn't have these marked is it ok to just solder the diode further back and across the positive and negative esc wires?
Last edited by Mabuchi540; 08-18-2004 at 06:28 PM.
#9450
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by ritchie
i don't have those items either. the ones i use are fw's. if you get there early you can set up next to me.
i don't have those items either. the ones i use are fw's. if you get there early you can set up next to me.
Here's the finished product.....
- jaybee
Last edited by JayBee; 09-12-2008 at 09:27 PM.