cHckbOY5

hah, hes tryin to comp... he even got an evo3 s now

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Actually I had a SD when they first came out... I do want to try the Rayspeed car too though.

Rampant

I would start with increasing spring rate and shock oil before you go too far with the other stuff. Remember, everything works together. Also, rear tower up front helps a lot too. What surface/tires are you running on? Try to find a good setup for your conditions and start there. Also remember, it might not be your oil and/or pistons that is making the car feel slow in transition. You can also try and increase your front roll center, that might help as well.

You use spacers to adjust the skid angle. I am pretty sure the stock skid angle (or kickup) is 1*. By putting a 0.8mm spacer below the rear hinge pin mounts, you reduce the skid angle to 0*. This directly affects camber, but it also can be used on smooth tracks. More kickup is usually better for a bumpier track.

At least that is how I approach it.

2Tenths

Skid angle refers to kick-up/anti-squat/pro-squat, the angle of the front or rear arms. The number put into that term on the setup sheet refers either to the angle of the arm or the number of spacers added. More kick-up gives the car less steering into a corner and more coming out. This is recommended for high bite, such as carpet because the car comes with the aggressive 4 degree hub carrier. It also helps on bumpy tracks. Caster and kick-up are not the same thing, but they work in a similar way and effect each other. I almost always run. Puting spacers under the front and rear mounts of either arm will raise that arm up on the inside, changing the roll center. I believe this gives the car more roll/traction on that arm.

On the list of new parts, the coolest thing has got to be the 0.5 degree toe-in rear uprights. Now, with these, instead of 1, 2 or 3 degrees of toe, we can use 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, and 3.5 degrees. With the 1 degree toe uprights, now the toe can go to 4! (not sure if 4 is usable )

mo

iTrader: (7)

They are Rayspeed Blue springs.

ongbenghui

iTrader: (5)

hi,

any good idea to get rid of the slop on the center link for steering block ? I find that the Yokomo ball cup is pretty weak. I already planning to change all the ball cup to Losi ones, but the center one is a bit of problem, as it is block by the front arm mount.

Please advise.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Actually I switched out my ball cups to Losi and it did remove almost all the slop in the steering. Just do that and you should be fine.

magerz24

Hi everyone, I have been driving a SD for several weeks now and I like it a lot, but I am haveing a very hard time looking for parts and hop ups. I found one site but they have been out of stock for several weeks. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

speedtechrc.com or rainbowten.co.jp should have your hookup.

V12

iTrader: (1)

The Losi ballcups are better then the Yokomo but they are not perfect too. Best ballcups are the RPM or the ones used in the Schumacher cars. Sometimes the RPM are too large but the Schumacher are smaller.

2Tenths

Another way to get rid of slop is to take a zip-lock bag or any type of plastic parts bag and cut out a small section of it. Put the plastic imbetween the cup and the ball and put them together like normal. Then, remove the excess plastic from around the edge. This should help.

I also run RPM cups but mostly for strength rather than fit.

IH

Hi,

I had a race today and the car was really great. But after a major impact the batteries came loose. This happened to me and another SD-Driver. It seems like the plastic of the mount is too soft and therefore it will bend up under heavy loads. Are there any alternatives e.g. battery straps

Explorer

Hi! Would you know the part number for the RPM Ball cups? If not, which size will suit the SD?

Thanks in advance.

Explorer

Headbanger

Here is their site: http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/product...c/steering.htm

Part numbers:
73372_Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 (Black)
73381 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 (White)
73375 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 - Blue
73377 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 - Yellow
73378 Heavy Duty Rod Ends (12) 4-40 - Purple

pops

iTrader: (1)

IH, haven't seen too many batteries fly loose with the new battery brace. Did you dremel out the chassis where the battery rests in place. This will allow the battery to set a little lower in the chassis and be a little more secure. Also Tobee Craft sells battery stops that screws into the chassis on the outter side of the battery.