Tpg racer

Hi guys I'm jz thinking about gettin a used yokomo car, may I noe wat are the good things about this car in terms of performance, durability and parts availability????

Also may I noe which part of the car usually breaks down after a hard crash???

I noe that this might be a silly question but I am really interested in getting a shaft driven car. So I would jz wana now wheter this car would suit me onot.

Tsquare

iTrader: (4)

I have the CGM, which is the tubversion of the SD car. It is very durable. The weakest part on the car is the front lower arms. I would recommend which ever car you purchase get the Wide Front Bumper Yokomo Hop-up, this will help quite a bit if you have a tendency to hit the boards.

The cars perfomance is very good, easy to drive, but like any other car you will need to spend some time finding a setup that suits your driving style, but as you can see this is a very large thread, and you will have no problem finding a good starting point for chassis setups.

The nice part about Yokomo is they keep the main parts from series to series, so getting the needed replacement parts are seldom a problem, in addition, their is a wide aftermarket parts availability for Yokomo SD cars.

If you get one of the SD version cars you will not regret it. Good Luck.

tom235

i just got my yok ssg and i love it the only thing i have broke on mine was a rear arm but that was my falt i got to close to a corner dot at the end of the strait and went flying
great car

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Im thinking about building up my LCG kit and want to get Ceramic bearings for it before I build it, but I need some pointers on what to get.

I've had Yokomo ceramics in the past, but I wasnt happy with the quality of them - they were super smooth but the races actually smashed after a couple of hits.

Boca's, while they may be the best, are $180 for a set for the BD, I dont want to pay that much!

Does anyone have any suggestions for Ceramics to use in the car that 1) wont break the bank and 2) have resonable durability?

Tsquare

iTrader: (4)

Acer bearings, I have had two sets for over two years with no problems.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Well I guess im about to see what they're like then Just ordered a set for the SD

tom235

does anyone have a good gearing for a 19t cobolt outdoor track about 100-120 strait im running a 96/37 and the motor is getting pretty warm i went down and it feels under geared

Oasis

iTrader: (38)

The thing about 19 turn class where I run at is no one cares about how hot the motor gets.. (I cared but got tired of getting smoked.. ) Your gearing is close, Your at a 6.11 final right now, I would try a 38 or 39 but a 39 puts you at 5.79..It will get hot, but you should have the Top end you want..plan on replacing your brushes often.

v0rtex

iTrader: (9)

Locally we run around 5.5 in 19t with a Peak Dynasty motor. They get warm but the Dynasty motor handles it well and is a rocket when geared up like that.

caltech1

Well I have just returned from running the LCG with a Trinity Pro CO27 using 4200 Eastpower cells from a race meet at gosford. I was using Sorex 24's with A firm insert on low/medium grip asphalt. (Outdoor basketball courts). The car had plenty of Rip, pity the Driver took 2 mins to warm to stock driving.
The car handles really well and I was able to post my best lap times. Pity the consistency is not up to par 1.3. Will have to work on that for next time.
For Pops
I am going to try a Yokomo plastic spool, as one of the other competitors was running a HPI Pro 4 with spool and he had a lap on me. I ended up finishing second one lap down.
For those considering running a CO27, here is the combination I used: 70 spur with a 26 pinion. Motor can still pass the pinky test. ie Not ultra hot. So maybe can go one more on the pinion. The track is reasonably free flowing.
BTW I fixed my steering problem by moving the servo saver on the servo and backed off to 95 % throw each way.
The 4200's provide excellent voltage and runtime. Thanks go to Feral batteries.
Hope this helps someone.
If I get time will fillout a setup sheet and post here.

Later
Calvin.

tom235

thanks guy do you think its better to stay with the 96 or go bigger to like a 100 spur

Racingbod85

The lower arms as standard SD are quite weak but just replace them with BD versions. Ive had set for a year know and not broken one...and i hit things!

as for suitability a shaft drive car is much quicker off the line and requires a smooth driving style to stop wheelspin. shafts are also more suited to stock and 19t. the lower turn motors upset the chassis balance along a shaft car whereas it's across the chassis in a belt.

Tpg racer

I've heard some one said that a Yokomo SD car is a fragile car.

Is this true????? Why is it a fragile car?????

Which part of the car is fragile???

In case if I get this car, which sparepart should I stock up first????

tom235

i have had my yok sd for a couple of months now and the only thing i have broke is a rear arm (my fault).i dont think there weak you just cant hit stuff at 30mph (broken rear arm)
i like mine i think the wide bumper is a must at least for me any way some times my lines get creative

aoizip

iTrader: (1)

The older arm is the one that get breaks easily.
try to get the heavy duty lower arm (SD-008HG I think)or try the new bd arm.
I rearly break arms, but i break a lot of c-hub by clipping the board at 90 degree angle.

~Ming