asw7576

I like that , nice explaination.

Sow&Steady

What's up Harry? Quitting the hobby?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

Nah.....but I have SO MUCH stuff, I am never going to use it....Alot of it is older, but new or like new....

I have a brand new Nova NSR12 S5 5 port turbo for 129 dollars..I have other engines as well.....plus a ton of older really cool bodies they don't even make any more......starter boxes( I own 10)...radio's, kits I'm never gonna build..( 3 HPI Super F1's!!!!)....

time to lighten the load a little.........

TomB

iTrader: (10)

here is my modified nt1 disk. i've used two stock disks on my car to improve heat disipation and braking. i'm using the KM racing carbon fibre brake pads.

stage 1

i thought that it wasn't enough, so i went a little further. i elongated the channels so the air can escape through the disks as well:



i never had issues with the brakes overheating with two disks, but i wanted to do this just for the individual factor

NTC3Crazy

Harry, nice collection!
What are the NTC3's going for?

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

That is some great info, especially about when you spoke on hitting the track!!!

~Jason

going4#1

I'm not sure that you can really rank parts of the car in any order. I mean you've got a group of integrated systems (powertrain, powerplant, suspension, radio, body, etc) but one isn't more important than another. The order of importance is completely up to the driver/mechanic in terms of which system needs attention most.

For example, if your car pulls to one side heavily, wasting time tuning the clutch is pointless. If your radio is glitching or your servos are acting weird, spending time on camber and toe won't get you racing. Bad fuel mileage is a smaller problem than a busted rear wing. A busted/warped wheel is a bigger problem than the two speed timing. The system you need to look at first is the system that is working least.

I would say though a lot of beginner racers pay a lot less attention than they should to the clutch which often results in blown bearings, overheating, poor fuel efficiency,etc. A lot of medium level racers will spend time getting it working to an adequate level but often stop playing with it once the car is driving okay. Well, at least I do that. It's typically the experienced/sponsored/pro drivers that really push hard to get the max out of the clutch. I'd have to say that getting the 'right' clutch setting takes significant experience.

going4#1

I had a similar problem. Some of the balls fell out when I was using a motor spray cleaner to clean up the clutch. I bit too much pressure I guess?? I put in a Serpent thrust bearing and it works fine. Not a single problem with the Serpent bearing.

going4#1

Whew! That's a relief. I haven't lost a thrust bearing in years and thought I screwed up. It is weird using a brass ring given how much brass expands over steel. Is this an electric thing?

The only other thrust bearing that gave me problems was the Serpent Ceramic Nitride bearing. Lost one a couple years back and have used steel ever since. No problems . . . until my NT-1 in-kit bearing died.

going4#1

Anyone using the 3Racing lightened clutch bell? I'm thinking it over and was looking for feedback. Anyone?

asw7576

I use 5x10 bearing instead of thrust bearing. So far no problem. Infact, I like it alot...... no more thrust bearing maintenance.

( the original thrust bearing were broken into many pieces ).

CDS70

iTrader: (12)

Yeah no issues. I have a couple of them I use and they are priced right.

going4#1

Do you remove the shields on the bearing? Or, do you sandwitch the bearing between 2 shims? Or, do you just use the bearing as is, no shims, with shields?

going4#1

One pro is telling me the material is slightly different than Xray causing a change in performance re the clutch shoe. Could this be true or is it a 'if it's cheap it can't be good' bias?

asw7576

I use 5x10 bearing AS IS , no more shims before or after.

Note : I always use 0.9mm thick shim ( 33 8586 , 33 8585 ) after the lock nut adjuster or centax spring tensioner. This ensure the bell is rotating freely, with or without load.