Help! Nitro engine revs super high on startup!
#1
Help! Nitro engine revs super high on startup!
I'm rather new to Nitro... Very new in terms of actually starting to get my feet wet, in fact.
I had purchased a Novarossi P5X to put in my 1/8 buggy. I opened it up to do a quick inspection, and everything seemed fine, so closed everything back up and carefully used some high-temp silicone around the neck of the carb and backplate to make sure it was well-sealed.
Anyway, I mount it into my buggy, and try to start it up. Virtually from the moment ignition was made, the engine goes into high-speed overdrive! Literally as though I was full on the throttle. I checked my throttle servo, and it was indeed at idle. The carb is set to roughly 1-1.5 mm open at idle, so I don't think that's the culprit.
If it helps any, I'm running Sidewinder 30%, and I haven't really played with the needle settings; I took the needles out to inspect the O-rings originally, but I was careful to take note of all the settings before doing so.
The only thing I can think of would be some sort of massive air-leak somewhere. Also, the P5X has only three screws holding the back-plate in place, as the head of one screw broke-off with the shaft lodged in the crank case. I didn't feel that would be a real issue though, as I don't believe that the backplate is put under enough physical stress to be a problem. That, and I was sure to make sure that it was well-sealed with high-temp silicone.
Might anyone have any ideas on this one?
I had purchased a Novarossi P5X to put in my 1/8 buggy. I opened it up to do a quick inspection, and everything seemed fine, so closed everything back up and carefully used some high-temp silicone around the neck of the carb and backplate to make sure it was well-sealed.
Anyway, I mount it into my buggy, and try to start it up. Virtually from the moment ignition was made, the engine goes into high-speed overdrive! Literally as though I was full on the throttle. I checked my throttle servo, and it was indeed at idle. The carb is set to roughly 1-1.5 mm open at idle, so I don't think that's the culprit.
If it helps any, I'm running Sidewinder 30%, and I haven't really played with the needle settings; I took the needles out to inspect the O-rings originally, but I was careful to take note of all the settings before doing so.
The only thing I can think of would be some sort of massive air-leak somewhere. Also, the P5X has only three screws holding the back-plate in place, as the head of one screw broke-off with the shaft lodged in the crank case. I didn't feel that would be a real issue though, as I don't believe that the backplate is put under enough physical stress to be a problem. That, and I was sure to make sure that it was well-sealed with high-temp silicone.
Might anyone have any ideas on this one?
#3
Hi gatermaxx.
I wanted to replace that broken backplate screw, but the screw literally broke roughly 1mm below the head, and the entire shaft is still inside the crankcase; impossible to remove without damaging the case itself, so I just left it. A machinist friend of mine said that it shouldn't make a difference, since the 3 remaining screws should be more than adequate to compensate for whatever loads would be imposed on the backplate.
Then again, I can't rule anything out. Any chance the engine could just be set too lean for the current cold, humid weather? (roughly 15C)
I wanted to replace that broken backplate screw, but the screw literally broke roughly 1mm below the head, and the entire shaft is still inside the crankcase; impossible to remove without damaging the case itself, so I just left it. A machinist friend of mine said that it shouldn't make a difference, since the 3 remaining screws should be more than adequate to compensate for whatever loads would be imposed on the backplate.
Then again, I can't rule anything out. Any chance the engine could just be set too lean for the current cold, humid weather? (roughly 15C)
#4
Originally Posted by captain america
Hi gatermaxx.
I wanted to replace that broken backplate screw, but the screw literally broke roughly 1mm below the head, and the entire shaft is still inside the crankcase; impossible to remove without damaging the case itself, so I just left it. A machinist friend of mine said that it shouldn't make a difference, since the 3 remaining screws should be more than adequate to compensate for whatever loads would be imposed on the backplate.
Then again, I can't rule anything out. Any chance the engine could just be set too lean for the current cold, humid weather? (roughly 15C)
I wanted to replace that broken backplate screw, but the screw literally broke roughly 1mm below the head, and the entire shaft is still inside the crankcase; impossible to remove without damaging the case itself, so I just left it. A machinist friend of mine said that it shouldn't make a difference, since the 3 remaining screws should be more than adequate to compensate for whatever loads would be imposed on the backplate.
Then again, I can't rule anything out. Any chance the engine could just be set too lean for the current cold, humid weather? (roughly 15C)
Did you try to lower idle?
#5
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
CA: it's probably not impossible to get the screw out. if it isn't bottomed out in the threads, it should spin freely. take a small pick and press it into the edge of the shaft of the screw then try to rotate the screw out of the case....i hope you know what i mean by that if that doesn't work, you can try a small dab of tire glue and some wire that's a little smaller diameter than the screw, let it set then try to spin it back out. hope that helps a bit,
adam
adam
#6
Hi Adam.
Actually, the screw shaft IS bottomed-out inside the threads. That, plus the previous owner had put so much thread-lock in there that it caused the screw head to break-off in the first place as I was trying to remove it.
The only solution would be to drill out a new hole and re-tap it, but the screw hole is so close to the main opening that it could break through; hence my choice to leave it as is; lesser of two evils of sorts.
Actually, the screw shaft IS bottomed-out inside the threads. That, plus the previous owner had put so much thread-lock in there that it caused the screw head to break-off in the first place as I was trying to remove it.
The only solution would be to drill out a new hole and re-tap it, but the screw hole is so close to the main opening that it could break through; hence my choice to leave it as is; lesser of two evils of sorts.
#7
Well...a new case aint too much money...but you did buy a used (and in this case abused) pile...or so it sounds. You may need to just bag the old case and get a new, fresh one.
lesson learned.
lesson learned.