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Old 04-29-2007, 06:09 PM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon
The orion/peak 4800 is a 2 cell (2s) lipo. The shorter the wires are, the easier it will be for the motor to draw its amps, = more power. Running a capacitor on the rx helps with glitching and takes a bit of strain off the bec...

Im waiting for a orion 3200 LiPo, a novak glitch buster capacitor, & a new 4600kv motor that will be hard wired, ill let you know how they all go together in one...
ah cool
i see
ok so ill get the 3200 lipo from orion hope it works.
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Old 04-29-2007, 06:10 PM
  #467  
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Once you set it and nothing happens. If you shut it off and turn it on again does the speedo work to your radio setups?
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:27 AM
  #468  
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Originally Posted by sloshedmr_bones
can not get my esc to arm to my radio. Did everything in the book it says to do and nothing. i hold full throttle and soon as i hit the switch it beeps and goes red then i full break and get beeping again and green light, then go nuetral and all the lights light up and then it beeps and goes red for a while then it turns yellow and beep continously and thats all it does. I dont know what else to do. Anyone?
Give me a call in tech...we'll get it figured out. 913-390-6939 ext. 119
If it goes to my voicemail don't leave a message...we're swamped right now and I want to get you taken care of. Try back in 5.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:16 AM
  #469  
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Question on the motor can ends...

While racing NasTruck on Saturday, a turnmarshal put my truck down right in front of the full speed pack coming out of turn 2 and the back of my truck was absoltely demolished.

In this wreck, the mounting screws on my 4600 motor were ripped out of the can and are now completely stripped. On a 10L4O there is only one orientation you can put a castle motor in to allow for wire clearance, so I can not turn the whole can 90 degrees to use the 2 remaining good holes.

I pulled the end cap and pulled the rotor and inner bearing out and tried to get the pinion end of the can to free up intending to rotate that portion while leaving the wiring location where it needs to be. There appers to be no way to pop the end cap off of the front, nothing I did would budge it.

Could this have been pinched in during the accident, or is this end not meant to be removed? I actually had to grind slots in the 3 small screws and use a standard screwdriver to pull the screws out they were so tight after the wreck.

Too bad this can is only about 2 months old and already destroyed, but I'm trying to make the best of it since the can now looks like it's been through a war
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:39 PM
  #470  
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Castle Link v2.24 came out today or yesterday. Looks like they added the ability to save and load brake and throttle curves. That's extremely disappointing.
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:11 PM
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The brake and throttle curves are saved with the profile. Why would you need to save them seperate?
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:46 AM
  #472  
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The new Castle Link does not have anything to do with the Mamba systems...it's for our Phoenix 10 airplane controllers.
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:50 AM
  #473  
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Originally Posted by Joe Ford
The new Castle Link does not have anything to do with the Mamba systems...
That's precisely why I am extremely disappointed.
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Old 05-03-2007, 09:35 AM
  #474  
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Originally Posted by Joe Ford
The new Castle Link does not have anything to do with the Mamba systems...it's for our Phoenix 10 airplane controllers.

Joe,

Any thoughts as to my problem of trying to rotate the front of the can? I'm not going to be able to race tomorrow if I can't get this figured out.

Thanks!
Carl
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Old 05-03-2007, 04:18 PM
  #475  
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All I have to say is thank you. Im getting back into racing and realizing this whole debate on brushed or brushless is huge. With this controller I see the potential of the growth of the industry. Working with electronics on a daily basis I have been debating on what brand to go with. Was stuck on the LRP/Nosram or the Tekin. Was wanting more information on the MMax and this forum gave me all the information I was looking for. Im sold on the Max and will be picking up early next week and getting it tuned in for racing. Only one flaw...... can we get mulitple choices on heatsink colors so my car can be pretty and all blue/cf
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Old 05-04-2007, 01:06 PM
  #476  
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Has anyone tried installing the v2.24 software and connecting a MM that they could not connect to before? I'm curious if I will be able to do so or if I will need to contact MM for a possible replacement.
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Old 05-04-2007, 07:47 PM
  #477  
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I have a Competition X system for my mini inferno and I'm still having a little problem with it cogging. Sometimes it just wont take off very hard from a dead stop. Once it gets going the thing is fine and has plenty of snap. I'm using 1200 IB cells right now.

I had someone update the software last November and it made it a ton better. Has there been a new update version since then? What parameters do I need to adjust to get it to take off better?
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Old 05-04-2007, 09:31 PM
  #478  
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I have noticed that some IB4200 packs are matched for 20A discharge and some 35A discharge. What would be best for a Mamba max 7700?

Cheers,

Ben.
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:09 AM
  #479  
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Simple. a 2 cell 7.4V lipo!!
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Old 05-05-2007, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Drift Demon
Simple. a 2 cell 7.4V lipo!!
Was asking which Nimh pack is best, not if Lipo are better lol.

Last edited by Phroz; 05-05-2007 at 03:53 PM.
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