rc4fun

iTrader: (3)

Normally i shim my engine if i use 30%nitro, it's look like you run the motor too lean, for break in normally it took me over 1/2 gallon before i start leaning it' i also replace the conrod after a gallon or 1 1/2 gallon just for precaution, and btw this is also depend on what engine are you using' i never try those stock engine, try the novarossi 28 you will love it' good luck to ur next engine'

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Hi,

Help I am putting together my DM1 Pro kit,and installing a .21 VSPEC I had laying around.And the pipe JP3 seems to hit the gas tank when its not in the spring mount at the tip of the pipe.Now I could install the mount and force it alittle bit and it wont hit.But then its not a square tight seal where the pipe attaches to the header???? What do you think?

Thanks Pete

sandfan85

iTrader: (10)

I had this same problem with the same motor & pipe combo in my dm1 spec. What I did to fix it was take some of the bend out of the header pipe. After doing this you may find that the header now hits the rear upper hinge pin locator (maybe not with the pro version). If it is, its not that big of a deal it will melt the plastic (a little) and clearance itself. Or you could change the header pipe to the "dual bend header" ofna part #51913. Hope this helps. Have fun.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Thanks! How did you bend it? Heat?

I will probably go to the LHS to get the header since this is out of my buggy.And dont want to make it fit in this car and not the buggy.Going to get a Picco .28 for it when they come in.

Do I really need to put more bearings in the front of the bell? If so how does the washer for the bolt not hit the bearing since it wont be resting on the crank anymore?

ANd these shocks do come with oil right? Hard to tell.Guess I could pull one off.

sandfan85

iTrader: (10)

For bending the header i just used two pairs of pliars, it doesnt take much. But if you are going back and forth between two cars you probably want to get the other header. As far as the clutch goes, you definately need to put an additional bearing in the nose of the bell. Because the snout is so long and heavy there is alot of deflection which causes the single bearing to come apart prematurely. When adding the additional bearing (2 total) you need to use a "sg shaft extension kit" this adds length to the crankshaft to allow for the additional bearing, then use shims to adjust your endplay like normal. The OFNA part# is 10099. If you go to A main hobbies and look for part#OFN10099 this is the kit you need. You will notice 2 different length collars in the kit, one of those is what you need to fill the void you are refering to. Hope this helps. Have fun.

rc4fun

iTrader: (3)

do you have the part # for sg shaft extension kit, what brand?
thanks'

rpespo

iTrader: (12)

This is what u need...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNT03&P=0

tbo713

THERE IS A CLASS FOR THE DM-1'S, IGT'S ETC. THIS SUN. AT 301 RACEWAY AT THE TORNADO RACE THIS WEEKEND

rpespo

iTrader: (12)

Why didn't anybody show up last Saturday for the 5th scale/ IGT/DM-1 points series race?

tbo713

everyone is getting ready for this weekend and sat. is bad for a lot of guys

rpespo

iTrader: (12)

Gotcha, well hopefully more people will show up for the next race on May 23rd.

catdaddy

Picked up a LRP .30 today. Still need to get a pipe though. Planned on using the stock exhaust set-up but the manifold is too large.

catdaddy

Here's a few pics

GT Speed Freak

Sweet pics. Just a shout out to the DM1 Crews. Max Velocity Racing has the full Carbon Fiber kits for the DM1. I almost knocked a pound off my car weight with the parts and removing the unneeded stuff. Check it out. www.maxvelocityracing.com

nitrohead5300

Nice CatDaddy that car should be wicked fast!!!!