Engine Won't Run
09-24-2006, 02:10 PM
#1
Engine Won't Run
Hey, I can get my engine running, but when I try to get it to idle it stalls out on me. suggestions?
09-24-2006, 03:05 PM
#2
now I can't even get my engine running, can someone tell me an easy way to get it running properly. and i need to now how to break-in the engine.
09-24-2006, 03:34 PM
#3
bump
09-24-2006, 06:07 PM
#4
hey bud, i will tell you how i break in my motors and you can do what you like ok. first if you have adjusted the needles put them back to the original setting.
i start by taking a heat gun and bringing the engine temp to 200 to 210, now this is without the engine running ok. reason,this will expand the sleeve and loosen upthe motor when you start it, this will help you from not killing the taper in the sleeve that makes the compresion, when you have all the taper gone the motor will not idle very well at race temps. check the temp make sure it is at the abouve temps then start the motor, if it does not start raise the idle screw, if raising the idle screw does not help you may be way to rich on the bottom end. to help this turn the low speed needle 1/8th of a turn this will lean the bottom end just a little, then try to start again. if you have the same problem start off again by raising the idle and then the LSN agian this should get the motor started ok.
once the motor is running be sure to keep it at 200 or 210. if it will stay running pull the temp gun, and yes keep heat on it while it is running. then pull away the heat gun and see if it will stay at that temp by itself. if the temp falls you will hear the motor start to sound different. it will want to start to die, this is beacause the sleeve is starting to shrink and get tight around the piston, so put the heat gun back to it and then it will loosen back up ok.
know i do this for 8 tanks of fuel, this takes a long time but has proven to be worth it in the end. after each tank of fuel let the motor cooldown to the sorounding temp. if it will go down to 100 degrees that is ok then start the process over. during this process you will notice the engine start to rais in RPM by itself that is ok if it starts to get to high turn down the LSN this will give it back some fuel and will reduce the RPM. during this breakin there should be fuel spitting out of the pipe at all times, alot of it.
after 8 tanks you are ready to start bringing up the RPM by appling throttle, place the car on the ground and start to give it gas just 3 to 4 seconds at a time, if it dies when you apply throttle lean the LSN this will take some fuel away and help it run not so rich. do this for 3 tanks of fuel keeping the temp abouve 200 ok, now that you are applying fuel the motor is going to run cooler, so you need to lean the top end needle, turn in 1/8th turns at a time,(KEEP ABOUVE 200 AT ALL TIMES) during this part.
after 3 tanks you can start to bring up the temp, you will do this by turning in the HSN 1-8th turns at a time. the HSN controls the temp of the motor as well as top end power. at this point you will want to give bursts of throttle for 6 to 9 seconds. as lomg as you have good smoke comming out of the pipe you are good. you can then decide if it has good accelartion, once that feels right run the motor for one to three tanks that way. let the motor cool down at this point
now that you have it set for the temp you want you will adjust the bottom, this will control the punch or take off power. you will do this by turning in the LSN 1-8th turns at a time.to set this start the motor after it has cooled off, bring the motor to race temp abouve 200 and drive the car hard to bring it up to temo ok, know after driving it hard come to a complete stop let it sit there for 10 seconds and then pull full throttle ok. if it starts to studder and then takes of good then you want to turn in the LSN. repeat this untill it takes of like a bat out of you know were. when this happens your ready to go racing
HSN= high speed needle=controls temp and top end power
LSN=low speed needle=controls punch
during brak in always heat motor with heat gun before starting, some times even after break in untill the motor gets about 3/4 of a gallon of fuel in race conditions, then you can start without.
hope that gets you started.
good luck
i start by taking a heat gun and bringing the engine temp to 200 to 210, now this is without the engine running ok. reason,this will expand the sleeve and loosen upthe motor when you start it, this will help you from not killing the taper in the sleeve that makes the compresion, when you have all the taper gone the motor will not idle very well at race temps. check the temp make sure it is at the abouve temps then start the motor, if it does not start raise the idle screw, if raising the idle screw does not help you may be way to rich on the bottom end. to help this turn the low speed needle 1/8th of a turn this will lean the bottom end just a little, then try to start again. if you have the same problem start off again by raising the idle and then the LSN agian this should get the motor started ok.
once the motor is running be sure to keep it at 200 or 210. if it will stay running pull the temp gun, and yes keep heat on it while it is running. then pull away the heat gun and see if it will stay at that temp by itself. if the temp falls you will hear the motor start to sound different. it will want to start to die, this is beacause the sleeve is starting to shrink and get tight around the piston, so put the heat gun back to it and then it will loosen back up ok.
know i do this for 8 tanks of fuel, this takes a long time but has proven to be worth it in the end. after each tank of fuel let the motor cooldown to the sorounding temp. if it will go down to 100 degrees that is ok then start the process over. during this process you will notice the engine start to rais in RPM by itself that is ok if it starts to get to high turn down the LSN this will give it back some fuel and will reduce the RPM. during this breakin there should be fuel spitting out of the pipe at all times, alot of it.
after 8 tanks you are ready to start bringing up the RPM by appling throttle, place the car on the ground and start to give it gas just 3 to 4 seconds at a time, if it dies when you apply throttle lean the LSN this will take some fuel away and help it run not so rich. do this for 3 tanks of fuel keeping the temp abouve 200 ok, now that you are applying fuel the motor is going to run cooler, so you need to lean the top end needle, turn in 1/8th turns at a time,(KEEP ABOUVE 200 AT ALL TIMES) during this part.
after 3 tanks you can start to bring up the temp, you will do this by turning in the HSN 1-8th turns at a time. the HSN controls the temp of the motor as well as top end power. at this point you will want to give bursts of throttle for 6 to 9 seconds. as lomg as you have good smoke comming out of the pipe you are good. you can then decide if it has good accelartion, once that feels right run the motor for one to three tanks that way. let the motor cool down at this point
now that you have it set for the temp you want you will adjust the bottom, this will control the punch or take off power. you will do this by turning in the LSN 1-8th turns at a time.to set this start the motor after it has cooled off, bring the motor to race temp abouve 200 and drive the car hard to bring it up to temo ok, know after driving it hard come to a complete stop let it sit there for 10 seconds and then pull full throttle ok. if it starts to studder and then takes of good then you want to turn in the LSN. repeat this untill it takes of like a bat out of you know were. when this happens your ready to go racing
HSN= high speed needle=controls temp and top end power
LSN=low speed needle=controls punch
during brak in always heat motor with heat gun before starting, some times even after break in untill the motor gets about 3/4 of a gallon of fuel in race conditions, then you can start without.
hope that gets you started.
good luck
09-25-2006, 08:40 AM
#5
Tech Initiate
Engine break in
Quite a winded reply to your break in question. You're lucky you have people that will take the time to explain the process to the newbies. Very impressed, a little overkill but i bet his engines run great and for many more gallons then the average person. Follow his advice and i foresee many laps of racing pleasure.
Check my web site and send my an email for special pricing on the STS line of engines.
www.projectzen.net
Here's to good racing.
Check my web site and send my an email for special pricing on the STS line of engines.
www.projectzen.net
Here's to good racing.
10-20-2006, 11:29 PM
#6
Tech Rookie
I pretty much did this process during my break-in and my engine was running great. I let the motor cool down after each tank and made sure the piston wasn't at TDC. But after my 4th tank, for some reason it lost power. 
BTW, it's a O.S. 12TZ 3 port. What could I be doing wrong.
BTW, it's a O.S. 12TZ 3 port. What could I be doing wrong.
10-21-2006, 08:45 AM
#8
Tech Rookie
This is happening during break-in and my car is S710.
10-21-2006, 09:24 AM
#9
does it sound like the motor is going to die, if so then turn up the idle a little to help. but the motor is new so still has very good pinch on the sleeve. when the motor is running at 200 degrees or a little abouve it should idle good. but when it drops down below 200 you will here a difference in the sound, this means the sleeve is shrinking back to a smaller size and the piston is having a hard time moving in the sleeve. if you can take a hair dryer or heet gun and bring the temp to 200 to 210 and then start the engine, and keep the heet on it through the entire tank full, don't run it out of fuel, but stop the motor befor it goes empty. basicly it sounds like the idle may be set a little low ir the sleeve in contracting on the piston. keep it abouve 200.
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