Integra

iTrader: (8)

Not really...mine get stuck all the time...when there's oil and crap surrounding the Sun gear it will require a little force to get it to pop off...its the oil not wanting to let it go...there's defiantly NOT something wrong if the sun gear proves a little challenging to remove...sometimes it take's a couple try's with the needle nose..but how would you deem something wrong if it does not slide out easily. ?

tc5 man

intega have u tried the easy to drive eight roller setup if so how is it, my track is hard packed and dusty and dry maybe a little bit loomy i have the eight competion kit . im running the stock setup

Integra

iTrader: (8)

cant say i have...my stuff usually stay's where its at as far as set-up and setting's go....Im not normally the one to go changing diff fluids or shock oil at the track...i normally have a good idea of what the track is prior to and adjust accordingly...my shock's stay the same for summer and winter they get a small 1/2-5 weight drop...i still have my 1.0 but i drive a 2.0 now...so the small difference's will be somewhat noticeable.

air8

iTrader: (7)

tc5man that setup will be a good starting point for the conditions you describe. My local track is as you describe and the easy to drive setup is a good start. Of course you'll need to adjust a few things to your personal liking. You can always put your current setup back on if you don't like it.

The easy to drive setup pushes a little around the corners, which is the stability people were looking for. So I ended up dialing in more steering till I had the car where I liked it. Use the tuning descriptions in the back of the manual to help you along. It's simple to follow.

tc5 man

thats good but i do race on friday nights when the track is moist and lots of traction would that setup still work too. when its dry i race on the weekends there . i used 3000 it pushed to much i have 1000 in it now

tc5 man

the 25 weight oil seems too light though on that setup i have 35 in back and 40 in the front

air8

iTrader: (7)

Right. Like I was saying, you might end up changing a few things. But try the setup as close as you can and see what you think. If it just totally sucks to you then you can swap back for the saturday race. It's sure worth a try if you haven't tried it before. And like I wrote earlier. I ended up dialing in more steering for my personal taste. The whole car ended up more balanced for me with jumping, cornering, landing, take-offs, bumps, and high speed sweepers.

bloodrush

hi integra can you tell me if the losi 2.0 shell sits higher above the brake servo than the losi 1 shell?

unsp0ken

iTrader: (25)

+1. tc5man- you'll have to just pick a setup from the losi website and use it as a baseline. we won't be able to tell you the exact settings that you'll like. pick a setup such as the stable/easy setup and run with it for a weekend and make changes as necessary. you also have to understand that there are two components to steering: turn-in and rotation. you're going to have to drive your buggy to see when your setup will need. if you're confused about what components of a setup will get you where you want to be, use the tuning guide on the losi website as a guide and it should point you into the right direction of what you need to change.

although, if i were in your situation, i'd disassemble the front and rear end completely and inspect the parts to make sure that they are in good condition and that they are installed correctly. my buggy used to push and i rebuilt the front and rear and the push went away. there should be no reason for this buggy to push much. as for the having 25 wt in the back, it shouldn't feel soft at all as long as you pair it with the 56 piston and build it with full rebound.

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

Because it is easy to get out. A couple tries with the needle nose is one thing. But he's trying to lift it out with screwdrivers and talking about applying more force with the pliers. Never had to do more then pinch mine once or twice with needle nose to get out. And that goes for the K-cars and Moogens I drove before this too. If you're having to squeeze the shit out of it and yank then something ain't right.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

My track is large, hardpack, big jumps, and very abrasive that sucks water so half of the time it is run dry. I had the drake neo06 setup on it then switched to the stable and easy to drive. I went with 35wt oil and 55 pistons rather than 40/54 because I didnt have any 40wt left. But I really like this setup, I feel more confident driving it and can push it more without biting back.

I had one of the sun gears not come out for a couple diff rebuilds, don't know why. I ended up having to buy special pliers and put the pliers in a vice and lock the pliers in the vice holding onto the sun gear right with another set of pliers tightening the vice down and use pliers on the diff case to pull it out. Took about 30 minutes but I got it out. No idea why it was hard to get out though.

tc5 man

the track i go is a short track and its techial ,the only thing i havnt done was adjust the droop screws to measure the shock legeth and i have a ride height gange on backorder for like 3 weeks , so baseilly i have where the droop screws barely touch the chassis and the ride height is just where the arms are level for now intil i get the ride height gange man though the stock setup is aggresive alest in the rear lol.but i drove 2wd gas so thats a given to be used to but i will do the easy to drive setup

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

That's what I'm saying LOL. We're talking about a part that just drops in and slips onto the shaft easily when they're first built. If it's that hard to get out, something has changed. Shaft is bent, or scratched up, or inside of gear is deformed, something. Tolerances on these cars are tight and it doesn't take much.

Chris__RC

iTrader: (7)

Like Integra said, it was just oil built up. I got my 8ight used so I don't think the oil was changed once making it difficult to pry off. But the next time I went to take the sun gear off it came off easily.

And something that has been bugging me for a while, I noticed on Losi setup sheets on the rear hub spacing part, losi says to put 2 spacers in. I have the M2C hinge pins and I use to 2 spacers that came with it, then I modifed a beveled washer (the washers for the diff in XXX models) so there wouldn't be any slop. Should I remove the extra beveled washer or not? I have heard people not getting as much traction, but I can't find the post anymore.

BOOST

All I ever do to get mine out is turn it upside down and let gravity do the work. It works every time...no need for prying or clamping or any of the things you guys try.