Losi 8ight building and setup
02-25-2009, 06:33 AM
#8191
Tech Master
iTrader: (114)
man i can not get them dam air bubbles out of the eight shocks they are brand new and everything is smooth they go up and down smooth and i tap the shocks like a needle then i let them set for a long time and make sure the shaft all the down ,and when i put the bladder on there goes the bubbles when i take the cap off to see if they are gone, i now them air bubbles make the rebond inconsent do u guys do anything special to get rid of them .i know a couple of times i was getting no rebond how much rebond good for the front or is it the same as the rear.i was wordering whats the diffrence with the 2.0 radio tray does it use the linkage as the losi 1.0 eight
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rixBJu93Qyw
03-01-2009, 12:09 AM
#8192
HI
just wondering if these http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7751 could be used on the steering tierod?
Thanks,
Matt
just wondering if these http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7751 could be used on the steering tierod?
Thanks,
Matt
03-01-2009, 12:51 AM
#8193
I'm not sure why there is so many in that package there. These are not for the steering tie rods out to the arms. These are for the servo arm to the servo saver top piece. Waaay too small for steering rods. What you are looking for is this: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/7752
These fit the 6.8mm hard coated steering/suspension balls.
These fit the 6.8mm hard coated steering/suspension balls.
03-03-2009, 11:01 AM
#8194
just bought a 8ight b any thing I need to know or any mods I need to do
03-03-2009, 02:14 PM
#8195
03-04-2009, 12:57 AM
#8196
Tech Initiate
build tips & questions
I've been building my 8b 1.0 kit and have a few tips and inquiries, here goes...
tips
- don't tighten the screws that hold the diff bulkheads too hard because it will warp the plastic and make it difficult to slide your shock tower in place when assembling it.
- tighten the diff bulkhead screws in a cross pattern...if you don't you might get a bind in your diff pinion/spur. If those gears are binding in only one section while you turn them, then try backing out the bulkhead screws and tighten in a cross pattern...that should do the trick.
-don't tighten the top plate on the center diff mount too much or else the brake cams will bind.
- use a little loctite, just to cover a few of the threads...don't go overboard!
- if your diff internal/external gears are notchy/binding then disassemble and make sure everything is seated in properly, then re-assemble and tighten screws in cross pattern. My whole drivetrain feels smooth and I think if your gears are very notchy and you're counting on the break in to make it smooth, then you haven't really assembled them properly...just my opinion.
questions
- I mounted the shocks on to the towers using the plastic bushing supplied, but after tightening the nut to hold it on to the shock stand offs I have 2mm of play...the shock cap plays back n forth 2mm because the nut doesn't press against it, the nut tightens against the plastic bushing which leaves room for the shock cap to slide back n forth on the bushing...is that normal??
- I set the shocks at half rebound, is that the best setup?
- inside the fuel tank there's a plastic 'bar' secured by a set screw, is this the piece that gives me more fuel capacity if I remove it? if so, why is it there to limit fuel capacity in the first place (race legality issue?)?
There are more tips on this thread (I just got to page 200, gonna be a while till I finish it), but I hope mine are helpful to someone out there.
As for my inquiries, any help is appreciated.
Just a little note, the quality and parts fit is good but not as good as Kyosho (I come from 14yrs of Kyosho, and decided time to make the switch
). I love the Losi design and the way it looks (haven't driven it yet but sure it is amazing), but quality is still not on par with Kyosho. Still it's a beautiful car, much nicer than the K cars in my opinion and should be faster 
thanks guys!
tips
- don't tighten the screws that hold the diff bulkheads too hard because it will warp the plastic and make it difficult to slide your shock tower in place when assembling it.
- tighten the diff bulkhead screws in a cross pattern...if you don't you might get a bind in your diff pinion/spur. If those gears are binding in only one section while you turn them, then try backing out the bulkhead screws and tighten in a cross pattern...that should do the trick.
-don't tighten the top plate on the center diff mount too much or else the brake cams will bind.
- use a little loctite, just to cover a few of the threads...don't go overboard!
- if your diff internal/external gears are notchy/binding then disassemble and make sure everything is seated in properly, then re-assemble and tighten screws in cross pattern. My whole drivetrain feels smooth and I think if your gears are very notchy and you're counting on the break in to make it smooth, then you haven't really assembled them properly...just my opinion.
questions
- I mounted the shocks on to the towers using the plastic bushing supplied, but after tightening the nut to hold it on to the shock stand offs I have 2mm of play...the shock cap plays back n forth 2mm because the nut doesn't press against it, the nut tightens against the plastic bushing which leaves room for the shock cap to slide back n forth on the bushing...is that normal??
- I set the shocks at half rebound, is that the best setup?
- inside the fuel tank there's a plastic 'bar' secured by a set screw, is this the piece that gives me more fuel capacity if I remove it? if so, why is it there to limit fuel capacity in the first place (race legality issue?)?
There are more tips on this thread (I just got to page 200, gonna be a while till I finish it), but I hope mine are helpful to someone out there.
As for my inquiries, any help is appreciated.
Just a little note, the quality and parts fit is good but not as good as Kyosho (I come from 14yrs of Kyosho, and decided time to make the switch
). I love the Losi design and the way it looks (haven't driven it yet but sure it is amazing), but quality is still not on par with Kyosho. Still it's a beautiful car, much nicer than the K cars in my opinion and should be faster thanks guys!
03-04-2009, 01:34 AM
#8197
- I mounted the shocks on to the towers using the plastic bushing supplied, but after tightening the nut to hold it on to the shock stand offs I have 2mm of play...the shock cap plays back n forth 2mm because the nut doesn't press against it, the nut tightens against the plastic bushing which leaves room for the shock cap to slide back n forth on the bushing...is that normal??
- I set the shocks at half rebound, is that the best setup?
- inside the fuel tank there's a plastic 'bar' secured by a set screw, is this the piece that gives me more fuel capacity if I remove it? if so, why is it there to limit fuel capacity in the first place (race legality issue?)?
- I set the shocks at half rebound, is that the best setup?
- inside the fuel tank there's a plastic 'bar' secured by a set screw, is this the piece that gives me more fuel capacity if I remove it? if so, why is it there to limit fuel capacity in the first place (race legality issue?)?
03-05-2009, 07:18 AM
#8198
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
Full rebounnd on the shocks is the way to go. Jumps better and better through the whoops. Put the Truhe setup on it as a baseline and go from there. I think you'll need to get a different rear toe/antisquat plate, can't remember what the stock one is. I also like 1 deg front kickup on my car, makes the car better in the bumps.
03-05-2009, 09:30 AM
#8199
how do u get full rebound ,i can only get a most half rebound and i fell the shock to the top and then bleed them ,theres nothing binding the stock is smooth and i added green slime to the o rings.maybe the shock and o rings have to wear in or maybe theres a air bubble but for some reason the bladder causes air bubble is that normal,and having the shock rebound half or less handle fine
03-09-2009, 11:17 PM
#8200
Hey guys quick question. This is my first build and RC cars are still pretty new to me, I've been an airplane guy for years. I picked up an 8ight kit for a great deal since the 2.0 came out. I figured building a buggy from the ground up would be the best way to learn.
My question is, I've been building the front end and a couple things seem to be overally tight that I would expect to be loose.
1) One of my front spindles is kind of snug when moving the hub back and forth by hand. I would expect this to move freely?
2) The steering balls that pop into my camber links (tie rods) are really tight.
Won't these issues create undue stress on the steering servo? There wasn't any burrs in the plastic or anything and all the parts looked good so maybe this is how it's supposed to be?
My question is, I've been building the front end and a couple things seem to be overally tight that I would expect to be loose.
1) One of my front spindles is kind of snug when moving the hub back and forth by hand. I would expect this to move freely?
2) The steering balls that pop into my camber links (tie rods) are really tight.
Won't these issues create undue stress on the steering servo? There wasn't any burrs in the plastic or anything and all the parts looked good so maybe this is how it's supposed to be?
03-10-2009, 08:04 AM
#8201
The WHOLE car will loosen up and needs to be broke in. A couple of months from now you'll be asking why the car is so sloppy
It's not a bad thing to have a little slop, and at what point you have to much is personal preference.
The ackerman arm is one place that will develope too much slop quickly. The 8 2.0 plate will solve that.
Back to the tight things... I put a dab of light machine oil in the plastic just for break in to help it along. The rod ends can be lightly squeezed with pliars to loosen a bit. I'd just run it in though and check things often.
Have fun with the the 8ight its a great car.
It's not a bad thing to have a little slop, and at what point you have to much is personal preference.The ackerman arm is one place that will develope too much slop quickly. The 8 2.0 plate will solve that.
Back to the tight things... I put a dab of light machine oil in the plastic just for break in to help it along. The rod ends can be lightly squeezed with pliars to loosen a bit. I'd just run it in though and check things often.
Have fun with the the 8ight its a great car.
03-10-2009, 08:27 AM
#8202
tc5man---Fill the shock up all the way. Let it set in order for the air bubbles to rise and burst. Float the shock bladder on the oil, and screw the cap all of the way on.
Don't bleed them. Thats why your not getting full rebound. I know it's not what the manual says but if you want full rebound that's how you do it. The shock should feel really stiff at the top of the stroke. When you release, bam, full rebound.
Don't bleed them. Thats why your not getting full rebound. I know it's not what the manual says but if you want full rebound that's how you do it. The shock should feel really stiff at the top of the stroke. When you release, bam, full rebound.
03-10-2009, 10:54 AM
#8203
I just finished running a race where I ran all my shocks at 1/2 rebound. Prior to that i was always running full rebound.
I felt that the vehicle handled much better, however the track was very smooth and slippery.
So really, the rebound is your own personal preference, track and driving style.
I felt that the vehicle handled much better, however the track was very smooth and slippery.
So really, the rebound is your own personal preference, track and driving style.
03-10-2009, 05:27 PM
#8204
Q'S
hey guys i have 2 q's? one; i have a dynamite platnium .21 at normal temps (220 to 250) while accelerating low end is great but during mid all the way to top end it crackles then at full open runs great what might be my problem??? is it the mid needle adjustment??
two; this is for your hardcore racers what are your thoughts on the smart diffs.... worth it or not????
two; this is for your hardcore racers what are your thoughts on the smart diffs.... worth it or not????