Losi 8ight building and setup
11-10-2006, 05:56 AM
#691
just wanted to give my 2 cents about the 8ight. i just got back into racing late last year, bought a pro spec, great car. bought another pro spec at the beginning of this season, very durable, dependable ride. i got an 8ight about a month ago, i race in the int. class, biggest races would be pro series races, i have made it to a-main, but i have never won a race. i raced at the futaba nitro challenge and won my very first race, this was my first race with the 8ight. i might have had two tanks of track time before i quailified. the car drives more aggressive to me compared to the mugen, but that couild be the set up. i seems to me that i had to drive the mugen harder compared to losi. with the losi it seems easier to drive, which translates into faster times, for me anyway. you cant deny the quality with mugen, the losi is equal if not more, very thought out. not just the motor location, but keyed steering post, larger shocks, etc. i'm sure there will be some bugs, i'm sure they all had them, but this is a very competitive ride, i also believe it makes the average guy a little faster.
11-10-2006, 05:40 PM
#692
That has been my biggest observation driving the 8IGHT as well. It is very possible to go fast with other cars, the Jammin', Kyosho, etc. It just feels easier to go fast with the Losi buggy, like you don't have to try as hard to string together good laps.
Mike Elam - I think that's coming too...
Regarding possible servo problems:
I stood in pit lane today at ARC during practice for the Best of the West series race tomorrow, and check the temperatures of a zillion (felt like it anyway!) throttle servos, from ALL cars: Losi, Jammin, Mugen, Kyosho, Hyper, truggies, buggies, etc. There was nothing concretely different among any of the cars. In fact, my throttle servo (and fellow Losi teammate Matt Castellano's) were both the hottest, at 140 degrees. Normal operating temperature for every other car was between 120-130. I checked two 8IGHT buggies whose servos were actually below 100.
It can't be accidental heat that's causing any servo failures. Servos will heat up if they are set up incorrectly, but this proves it's not due to the car's running temperature.
Mike Elam - I think that's coming too...
Regarding possible servo problems:
I stood in pit lane today at ARC during practice for the Best of the West series race tomorrow, and check the temperatures of a zillion (felt like it anyway!) throttle servos, from ALL cars: Losi, Jammin, Mugen, Kyosho, Hyper, truggies, buggies, etc. There was nothing concretely different among any of the cars. In fact, my throttle servo (and fellow Losi teammate Matt Castellano's) were both the hottest, at 140 degrees. Normal operating temperature for every other car was between 120-130. I checked two 8IGHT buggies whose servos were actually below 100.
It can't be accidental heat that's causing any servo failures. Servos will heat up if they are set up incorrectly, but this proves it's not due to the car's running temperature.
Last edited by Aaron Waldron; 11-10-2006 at 05:57 PM.
11-10-2006, 06:17 PM
#693
Thanks Aaron , I wasn't falling for the hot to close to the motor servo theory they get hot in all cars......... 
11-10-2006, 06:59 PM
#694
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
If you must justify the purchase of another kit by bashing this one, go ahead...but I'm not sure anyone on this thread will be listening.
11-10-2006, 07:50 PM
#695
I stood in pit lane today at ARC during practice for the Best of the West series race tomorrow, and check the temperatures of a zillion (felt like it anyway!) throttle servos, from ALL cars: Losi, Jammin, Mugen, Kyosho, Hyper, truggies, buggies, etc. There was nothing concretely different among any of the cars. In fact, my throttle servo (and fellow Losi teammate Matt Castellano's) were both the hottest, at 140 degrees. Normal operating temperature for every other car was between 120-130. I checked two 8IGHT buggies whose servos were actually below 100.
Thanks for taking the time to due a true and fair comparison test, under actual racing conditions. Just curious, what was the ambient air temperature outside when you were doing this test?
11-10-2006, 10:56 PM
#696
Dave H. - It wasn't the motor heat I was worried about so much as lack of air-flow, or generally wrong servo setups that were causing the added heat. I did find it really ironic (and funny) that the two Losi team drivers at the track today had the hottest servos. Oops!
It was brought to my attention today that many 8IGHTs seem to have so much EPA that the radio tray is flexing. Badly. Make sure your car can get full brake without THAT much EPA and that should reduce a lot of servo strain.
Steve - Ahh....I blew it, haha. I have no idea how hot the ambient temperature was. Most were in shorts and t-shirts but it wasn't hot by any means. Probably somewhere in the 70's-80's?
Two-speed - It wasn't an agnostic post by any means, just mis-informed and ill-intended. Every new car has issues. This car is different than the other buggies on the market. It has to be driven and adjusted differently, it assembles differently, and rightfully so. The clutch wear issues have been addressed and can be remedied. Shock shafts should no longer be an issue. Losi is aware of these crazy throttle servo failures and trust me...we're working on it. Is there anything else you'd like us to work on? Name a legitimate concern and it can be fixed.
Don't get me wrong, there are other great cars on the market, the Kyosho buggy included. If you end up with another car, best of luck.
When Kyosho released the SP1, most racers actually reported going slower until they got the car figured out. (And that car ended up National Champion.) It seems rather the opposite for the 8IGHT, "issues" and all.
It was brought to my attention today that many 8IGHTs seem to have so much EPA that the radio tray is flexing. Badly. Make sure your car can get full brake without THAT much EPA and that should reduce a lot of servo strain.
Steve - Ahh....I blew it, haha. I have no idea how hot the ambient temperature was. Most were in shorts and t-shirts but it wasn't hot by any means. Probably somewhere in the 70's-80's?
Two-speed - It wasn't an agnostic post by any means, just mis-informed and ill-intended. Every new car has issues. This car is different than the other buggies on the market. It has to be driven and adjusted differently, it assembles differently, and rightfully so. The clutch wear issues have been addressed and can be remedied. Shock shafts should no longer be an issue. Losi is aware of these crazy throttle servo failures and trust me...we're working on it. Is there anything else you'd like us to work on? Name a legitimate concern and it can be fixed.
Don't get me wrong, there are other great cars on the market, the Kyosho buggy included. If you end up with another car, best of luck.
When Kyosho released the SP1, most racers actually reported going slower until they got the car figured out. (And that car ended up National Champion.) It seems rather the opposite for the 8IGHT, "issues" and all.
11-11-2006, 06:14 AM
#697
servo
Aaron if heat isn't a factor then I have two guesses.
1. the location of the servo so close to the center diff and brakes
would suggest more vibration.
2. I never liked the servo horn because how short the brake side is.
Its shortness will cause a servo to work harder to pull the brakes.
When I had the Jammin I used the long Hitec horn (on steering) so my servo throw
would only be at 50% for full throw and thus letting it work much less.
anyone that thinks this car has issues for the first run is mistaking. Not everyone is having problems. I haven't had one. got almost a gallon on the car. ANd the problem people are having are relatively small for a new car.
1. the location of the servo so close to the center diff and brakes
would suggest more vibration.
2. I never liked the servo horn because how short the brake side is.
Its shortness will cause a servo to work harder to pull the brakes.
When I had the Jammin I used the long Hitec horn (on steering) so my servo throw
would only be at 50% for full throw and thus letting it work much less.
anyone that thinks this car has issues for the first run is mistaking. Not everyone is having problems. I haven't had one. got almost a gallon on the car. ANd the problem people are having are relatively small for a new car.
11-11-2006, 07:14 AM
#699
diff
I am sure there is some kind of vibration generated by the center diff spinning at a few houndred or thousand RPM.s, even if it feels smooth. Just a threory. I really can't think of many other reasons. ALso not everyone is having the problem but it is enough to look at it. I went through mine as I always do when building to make sure all the settings on the radio were at the least amounts as possible to get done what I needed and I haven't had a problem.
11-11-2006, 09:05 AM
#701
Nice job Aaron. The temp theory was not making since to me at all.
If your linkage is set up where you need a ton of throw to get the brakes on your already in trouble. Tighten down your link stops on your front and rear rods so your brakes engage sooner in the throw. I have seen a few guys here bend and flex their radio trays as well. You know they are putting a considerabe strain on the servo that they do not need.
Leverage wise, it is actually easier on the servo to rotate a short lever rather than a long one. In this case you might loose a little of the movement on the brake side as compaired to a longer arm. This just makes the adjustment more finite.
When at neutral you should ensure your brakes are not draging. Cinch down your brake collets as much as possible without causing them to drag. Reduce your EPA to a point where when you are at full brake the trottle return spring is not fully collapsed. This is your max mechanical throw setting for your EPA. Now back the EPA down 10 points so you will have a little adjustability left in your radio. Make sure your ride spins freely when at neutral. Hold the brakes at full and check on a table. If the brakes can lock the wheels up then adjust on your thumb adjusters on the linkage rods by incresing their lengths. Adjust till the rear breaks just lock before the front brakes. Head to the track and tune them in. The slicker the track conditions the lighter you should set your brakes as a whole. This is your EPA setting. Remember to never go over that EPA value that collapses the throttle return spring completely. All you need is to be able to slow the car in a controlled manner without locking up the tires.
Good luck,
TEX
If your linkage is set up where you need a ton of throw to get the brakes on your already in trouble. Tighten down your link stops on your front and rear rods so your brakes engage sooner in the throw. I have seen a few guys here bend and flex their radio trays as well. You know they are putting a considerabe strain on the servo that they do not need.
Leverage wise, it is actually easier on the servo to rotate a short lever rather than a long one. In this case you might loose a little of the movement on the brake side as compaired to a longer arm. This just makes the adjustment more finite.
When at neutral you should ensure your brakes are not draging. Cinch down your brake collets as much as possible without causing them to drag. Reduce your EPA to a point where when you are at full brake the trottle return spring is not fully collapsed. This is your max mechanical throw setting for your EPA. Now back the EPA down 10 points so you will have a little adjustability left in your radio. Make sure your ride spins freely when at neutral. Hold the brakes at full and check on a table. If the brakes can lock the wheels up then adjust on your thumb adjusters on the linkage rods by incresing their lengths. Adjust till the rear breaks just lock before the front brakes. Head to the track and tune them in. The slicker the track conditions the lighter you should set your brakes as a whole. This is your EPA setting. Remember to never go over that EPA value that collapses the throttle return spring completely. All you need is to be able to slow the car in a controlled manner without locking up the tires.
Good luck,
TEX
11-11-2006, 09:07 PM
#702
i just ran my losi at at large event with some sucess,but i need to get the rear end more planted it just felt very unstable.it has pretty much stock setup and the car is awesome just need more traction and it will be a weapon even with brand new crimefighters it still seemed loose
Aaron do you have any tips to get the car a little more dialled?
thanks guys
Aaron do you have any tips to get the car a little more dialled?
thanks guys
11-12-2006, 07:03 AM
#704
the 3/3 rear plate should help a bit with straightline traction as well.
11-12-2006, 10:08 AM
#705
I run:
3toe(stock) & 3 anti
stock sway bars- 2.3-2.5
35 fr. shock oil- 30 rear
5-7-2 oils stock
3toe(stock) & 3 anti
stock sway bars- 2.3-2.5
35 fr. shock oil- 30 rear
5-7-2 oils stock